Tomato and mushroom sauce is such a go-to meal starter that it was one of the earlier jarred pasta toppers. This recipe is a delicious deconstruction of the sauce, bringing into focus the integrity of some of the main ingredients. And even if the tomatoes are wee, they’re cheery. But the same wine pairing principles apply were this the more classic rendition: Choose a red or white that has good acidity to balance off the salt, acidity and fat in what’s on the plate. Recommendations are from red and white Italian grapes grown in Italy and the U.S.
THE FOOD: Cheery cherry tomato pasta
Place 1 pint halved cherry tomatoes on a baking sheet sprayed with cooking spray; bake at 350 until wrinkled and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet on medium-high heat. Add 2 cloves minced garlic and 1 chopped onion; cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup sliced mushrooms, 1/4 cup dry red wine and salt and pepper to taste; cook until mushrooms are softened. Stir in the tomatoes and 1/2 cup shredded basil. Toss with 1/2 pound spaghettini, cooked to al dente; serve with grated Parmesan. Makes: 4 servingsTHE WINES
2011 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola “Lamuri,” Sicily, Italy: Wild and earthy red fruit accented by herbal notes in a richly textured, smooth red that finishes crisply. $14-$17
2012 Tenuta di Fessina Etna Bianco “Erse,” Sicily, Italy: Named after the Greek god of sunrise and just as brightening for food, with lemon and pear aromas, a slight mineral note and gobs of cleansing acidity. $22
2010 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Mendocino County, California: Medium-bodied, easygoing style, with dark cherry fruit, soft tannins, good acidity; all you want from sangiovese. $15-$18