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Out to Lunch: Pierrot Gourmet

108 E. Superior St., Chicago

312-573-6749, chicago.peninsula.com

Who eats: Laptop-toting businesspeople, ladies who lunch, Peninsula Hotel guests

Why eat: European-style cafe (complete with Parisian-style rotisserie chicken) plus al fresco dining.

Ambience: Despite its downtown, tourism-heavy location, the restaurant manages to keep things understated. Its terra cotta decor and long communal tables give a small space an airy, open feel with little Euro-kitsch.

Snagging a table outside on a beautiful fall day was no problem, and its location at Rush and Superior streets is along a Gold Coast migratory route to make for prime people-watching. A dapper gentleman passed walking one small dog while carrying another. (Yes, there are heat lamps; an awning but no umbrellas.)

Dress code: Casual but fashionable

Noise factor: Quiet, tranquil and communal. No top secret deals here.

Overheard: During a lively conversation about Jessica Alba’s pregnancy: “Shut the door!”

Service: The restaurant keeps the details classy with heavy silverware, cloth napkins, butter stamped into neat circles, artisan-style plates and stevia packets. Service was slow to arrive, but our server was knowledgeable and answered a liberal heaping of questions about everything from an entree’s European origins to the background of the pastry chef.

Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Yes and yes. Laptops and iPads in plain sight.

Reservations: No

Menu: Light fare, French-style pastries, flambes, quiches, sandwiches and salads with a few warming entrees.

Reliable options: We started with the gourmet sampler ($18), a platter heaped with hummus, Bavarian brie dip, crab dip and (slightly addictive) honeycomb ricotta and homemade crackers that are crisp with a hint of lemon oil.

The standouts were the light and creamy ricotta and the crab dip, which tasted like crab, not mayonnaise. The deviled egg ($2) was fresh, high on flavor and accompanied by delicious tiny pickles. The baguette au jambon ($15) is a must for anyone looking for a taste of Paris, with ample layers of tender French ham, thick-sliced brie and honey mustard.

The shrimp and grits ($19) blew us away with bold, smoky al dente grits that were anything but an afterthought. The trick is to save room for dessert — a case is filled with macaroons and sweet delights made in-house. The aptly named “Chocolate obsession” came nestled inside two macaroons with a bittersweet flavor that kept us coming back for bite after bite after bite.

Expect to pay: $30-$40 per person

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