Lao 18
18 W. Hubbard St., Chicago
lao18.com, 312-955-8018
Who eats: Businesspeople, area residents
Why eat: Upscale Chinese food at moderate prices
Ambience: The recently opened River North outpost of the growing Tony Hu restaurant empire is a hipper, sleeker version of its Chinatown forefathers. Darkly lit with modern furniture, the restaurant features a massive yellow-and-orange glass mural that runs the length of the bar. Light fixtures designed to look like oversize ceramic rice bowls surround wooden beams near the entrance. According to the restaurant’s website, much of the artwork has been imported from China, including an elaborate brass sculpture that snakes around the ceiling of the main dining area. Ambient techno music plays in the background, and a large television on the back wall (fashioned from four 40-inch flat screens) shows Chinese cooking, travel and fashion shows.
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Dress code: “Smart casual” is recommended, so don’t show up in anything stupid.
Noise factor: The music played softly and tables are well spaced, so noise is not an issue.
Overheard: “I mean, there’s a reason he’s the CEO.”
Service: Our server was efficient, if not overly outgoing. Plates and utensils were promptly removed and replaced with clean versions, water refilled and, overall, things went smoothly.
Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Full cell
Reservations: Accepted
Menu: Chinese
Reliable options: For fans of Lao Sze Chuan or any of Hu’s other restaurants, be warned: This is not your Chinatown Lao. The River North version features smaller portions with considerably less spice. We started with the Peking dumplings ($9), eight small dumplings stuffed with pork and napa cabbage. The accompanying sauces (one a chili oil hot sauce, the other called “Shanghai vinegar”) added some appreciated zip. The black pepper short ribs ($6) appetizer was packed with peppery flavor but a tad fatty. The meatballs with cilantro ($6) were underwhelming, and a dining mate found the texture spongy. The Mongolian beef ($12) included succulent slices of beef mixed with mushrooms, scallions and a soy plum sauce, while Tony’s honey crisp prawns ($14) were fried and bathed in a lemon-mayonnaise sauce. It sounds odd but is truly tasty. The twice cooked pork belly ($10) features thin strips of pork mixed with soy, garlic and black bean paste. It was salty, but more adventurous than much of the menu. Tony’s Three chili chicken ($11) cooked plump chunks of lightly breaded boneless chicken with jalapenos, hot peppers, sesame oil and a sweet syrup. It lacks the punch of Hu’s signature dry chili chicken, available at Lao Sze Chuan in Chinatown, but delivered a satisfying sweetness.
Expect to pay: $15-$20 per person.