For most sealing and energy-efficiency projects around the house there are two basic kinds of caulk: silicone and latex. Both come in various types of containers, from toothpaste-size squeeze tubes to cartridges emptied with a gun. Most containers are intended to serve as applicators. But it takes some finesse to move caulk from the package into a seam.
Silicone vs. latex
As far as application goes, latex and silicone handle about the same way, though 100 percent silicone is stickier on any surface, including your hands.
Latex caulk is the most common. It works on most projects inside, comes in many colors, is the least expensive and cleans up with soap and water.
Silicone works on most projects inside and outside and is more flexible than latex. That means it works better where dissimilar materials meet, like wood clapboard siding against a vinyl window frame. But it’s the most expensive and requires mineral spirits for cleanup — generally with a lot of scrubbing.
But many caulks that include the word silicone (typically labeled siliconized acrylic latex) use it only as an additive in varying amounts to increase flexibility and adhesion. Sometimes it’s a drop and no more than a sales gimmick.
To compare products in detail instead of trying to decipher tiny print on a label in the store, check the Web for manufacturers such as Dap (dap.com), GE (caulkyourhome.com) and Red Devil (reddevil.com) — and the Material Data Safety Sheet (MSDS) for the product you select.
Cartridges and guns
There are huge caulking guns with power-assists to push caulk into place under constant pressure. They are most often used by contractors who have the knack of applying caulk and don’t want to switch cartridges as often as DIYers have to.
But the standard household tool is a metal cartridge holder with a ratchet mechanism that squeezes out caulk as you squeeze the trigger. It works, but if you’re planning a major caulking project, such as every window in the house, check the Web for options. Here are two:
Black & Decker CG100 two-speed gun powered by AA-batteries ($37)
Campbell Hausfeld PL1558, air-powered ($22, but you need a compressor.)
Guns powered with 18-volt battery packs typically used on drills (from Dewalt, Milwaukee and others) generally run $250 and up. Basic, hand-squeeze guns run about $5, with heavy-duty models in the $10 to $15 range.
Squeeze tubes
Once the nozzle is pierced (wider for large seams, narrower for small seams) the trick is to apply consistent pressure. Stops and starts as you move the tube along a seam leave uneven globs that are difficult to smooth. Try using two hands with a few fingers extended as guides to keep the tube at the same angle and moving at the same speed as you squeeze out the caulk. The wet finger finish with latex — wet your finger so it doesn’t stick, run finger down the line of caulk for final smoothing — works best if there is an even layer of caulk closing but not overfilling the seam.
Cartridges
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On a larger scale with cartridges, the key is the same: consistent pressure as you move the gun along a seam. But once you puncture the tube, caulk tends to flow in spurts as you depress the trigger — and keeps flowing for a bit after you stop.
First, control the flow by cutting the end of the nozzle at an angle, creating an oval opening slightly smaller than the size of the bead you need to fill the seam.
Then start the flow with a series of small pulls on the trigger, repeating them as you work to maintain pressure and caulk flow.
Near the end of the joint, release the trigger to stop the flow just ahead of time.
It takes some practice, and, inevitably, the last seam you caulk will probably be the neatest.