Plugging may sound like a temporary quick fix. But in carpentry it’s a classy way to hide recessed fasteners. Drill a hole part way into a board, drive a fastener through the bottom of the hole, then cover with a wood plug.
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Need to screw down a loose floorboard? A wood plug cut to the same diameter as the counterbore will cover an oversize screw that has plenty of holding power. You can use stock-size dowels and stain them to match. You can also buy inexpensive plug-cutting drill bits (Craftsman sells a 3-bit set for $15) and make your own plugs.
You might steal a plug from flooring in a closet to get a perfect match over the screw. On furniture projects you could cut plugs from contrasting wood and make a point of showing the finishing detail. The alternative, countersinking, makes a conical impression for the screw head to sit flush, but doesn’t hide it.
1 Match the diameter of the counterbore bit to the diameter of the plug. A half-inch is normally enough room to drive a fastener, even with a washer to increase holding power. Larger counterbores can be drilled where you need access for a socket wrench — for instance, attaching deck railing posts to decks.
2 Use a sharp bit to avoid ragged edges around the hole. Forstner bits that have a fine knife edge at the perimeter are best, but costly.
3 Control the depth of the bore by measuring beforehand and marking the depth limit on the bit shank with a piece of tape.
4 If you need a pilot hole for the fastener, drill the counterbore first, then the smaller hole for the fastener.
5 Wipe the sides of the hole and the plug with carpenter’s wood glue, tap the plug flush with the surface, wipe off excess glue and sand lightly to finish.