Kitchen sinks are a lot slicker than they used to be, sold now with connections for garbage disposals, detergent pumps, telescoping faucets and even coatings to deaden the sounds of washing pots and pans.
But with all the features, the plumbing work behind them has become easier to handle — on a new installation or an upgrade that includes a new faucet.
American Standard, Kohler, Elkay and others offer a good choice for DIYers: a stainless steel self-rimming sink. Even large models with double basins are lightweight (under 20 pounds) and easy to maneuver during installation. And the self-rimming feature, a rim that overlaps the countertop, provides a margin of error that under-mounting sinks and other models don’t allow.
Cuts
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Starting from scratch, if you can cut a hole in plywood, you can install a sink — and most manufacturers provide a paper template to help. You could trace its outline, but it’s better to tape it in place so the paper protects the counter as you cut. Drill a starting hole, insert the blade of a jig saw, and follow the outline.
If you have trouble turning tight corners on the template, cut across the corners to remove the main piece of counter and go back to trim off the excess. Because you’re cutting heavy, 3/4-inch plywood, it’s wise to support the piece near the end of the cut to keep a clean edge.
Connections
Before you install the sink, install the faucet, soap dispenser, drain flange and flexible water lines that connect to the faucet. It’s so much easier to turn the sink upside down in the opening, and work where all the connections are accessible.
The alternative is buying a specialized sink wrench, wriggling yourself into the cabinet and working over your head in the narrow slot between the back of the sink and the back of the cabinet. It’s cramped, dark, and who knows if you tightened the nuts enough, or if you’ll be stuffing yourself into the space again to stop a leak.
With the faucet ends of flexible supply lines connected ahead of time, the dangling lines will be in full view and easy to attach to the cutoff valves in the cabinet. Most manufacturers call for plumber’s tape (thin Teflon) to seal the connections, though you should follow the directions for your unit.
Seals
You’ll need to install a bead of caulk to seal the seam between the drain basket and the bottom of the sink. It’s also used to seal the seam between faucet and the top of the sink, usually a clear silicone. Some manufacturers provide a thin caulking template with a groove so the caulk is properly positioned. When the faucet is tightened, some will ooze out. But after the caulk sets, excess can be peeled away.
The same system is used on most self-rimming sinks where they overlap the countertop. A liberal bead of silicon keeps water from seeping under the rim. Typically, these sinks have a metal flange underneath and set back from the edge. Clips should be provided to tighten the seal. Spaced evenly around the unit, one end slips into the flange under the sink and the other extends out to the bottom of the plywood counter. As you tighten the clips, the rim is pulled down tight.
Drains
While flexible supply lines can snake between the faucet and the cutoff valves, the drain line is rigid and must include a trap. Depending on local codes and the material installed already (metal or plastic) you can buy a drain kit that includes all needed fittings. Look for one with a clean-out plug at the base of the trap — for cleaning, and to rescue something valuable that slips down the drain.