He came, he ate — and we’ll see if he conquered when the book sale figures come in.
Bibendum — the actual name of the puffy corporate symbol known as the Michelin Man — hit Chicago in 2010, and the food world was abuzz about what the first Chicago Michelin Guide, released in November, might contain.
Would Alinea receive its expected maximum three stars? Would any other restaurant? Who would be exalted? And who would be humbled?
The big news was announced Nov. 17 — or would have been, had an anonymous Internet poster not spilled the beans Nov. 15, forcing the Michelin folks to move their announcement up 24 hours.
In the end, Alinea’s position as one of the world’s finest restaurants was affirmed, and L2O was the happy surprise, joining Alinea with three stars. Only three restaurants earned a two-star status: Avenues and Ria, whose staffers were overjoyed, and Charlie Trotter’s, which undoubtedly expected more but shrugged the whole thing off.
Eighteen restaurants received a single star: Blackbird, Boka, Bonsoiree, Crofton on Wells, Everest, Graham Elliot, Longman & Eagle, Naha, NoMI, Schwa, Seasons, Sepia, Sixteen, Spiaggia, Takashi, Topolobampo, Tru and Vie.
Among the snubbed were such notables as Arun’s, Cafe des Architectes, Frontera Grill, Girl & the Goat (Frontera and G&G received Bib Gourmand nods for affordability), Hot Chocolate, Les Nomades, Mercat a la Planxa, Oceanique, one sixtyblue, Pelago, Piccolo Sogno, Sprout and Table Fifty-Two.
Michelin’s decision to visit restaurants within 20 miles of the city center was curious for a couple of reasons. First, it meant that such outstanding restaurants as Carlos’, Courtright’s, Le Titi de Paris, Le Vichyssois, Restaurant Michael and Tallgrass never had a chance. Second, it seemed a repudiation of Michelin’s core philosophy; the Guide originated, after all, as a motorists’ guide to countryside restaurants, information that might inspire drivers to wear their tires down a bit faster.
Michelin’s impact on Chicago restaurants’ respective bottom lines has yet to be seen. And we’ll have to see if the anticipation for Michelin’s second Chicago book approaches the level of the first. But judging by months of buzz, the joyous reactions from the anointed and the howls of protest on behalf of those shunned, it’s clear that, this year, Michelin mattered. It mattered a lot.