Remember the crepe, flat, flavorful habitue of the late ’70s restaurant scene? Once it was considered the main attraction. Whole restaurant chains were financed on the conviction that the on-the-towner wanted a broiling hot crepe, served in a broiling hot pan.
Eventually the trendy got distracted by haute cuisine, leaving the lowly crepe to linger in memory, along with the Space Food Stick, fondue, quiche Lorraine and Tang.
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Now the crepe is back, ready for another round. It’s willing to shrug off injustices past. It’s over the indignity of having been doused with chicken divan and smothered in spinach souffle. It’s ready to return to its roots: sidewalk cart or shop-front duty. The crepe has reclaimed its old job: casual, quick, hand-held deliciousness. It’s perfect for Sunday breakfast or after-school snack or premovie bite. Especially if the movie happens to be a ’70s-era nostalgia flick.
Leah Eskin is a Tribune special contributor.
Sweet crepes
Prep: 10 minutesWait: 30 minutesCook: 4 minutes per crepeMakes: 12-15 crepes
1 1/2 cups whole milk
3 eggs
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup brandy
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup flour
Vegetable or canola oil, for cooking
Apricot jam, sugar, Nutella or fruit
1 Buzz: Pour milk into blender. Crack in eggs. Buzz foamy on medium speed, 10 seconds. Add sugar and salt; buzz 10 seconds. Add butter, brandy, vanilla and flour, one at a time, blending well after each. Set batter aside at room temperature for 30 minutes or chill overnight (if chilled, give a good swirl before continuing).
2 Crisp: Find the crepe pan, if you have one. If not, choose a small heavy skillet. Set over medium-high heat. Brush with oil. Pour in just enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan (tilt the pan to spread evenly). For an 8-inch skillet, 3 tablespoons should do. Flip, using a thin metal spatula, once the edges have turned golden and the center is speckled with tiny holes, 1-2 minutes. Cook second side golden, 1 minute.
3 Serve: Spread crepe (still in the hot pan) with a spoonful of jam, a sprinkling of sugar or whatever strikes your fancy. Fold into quarters, wrap in wax paper. Hand it over to the happy and carry on.
For savory crepes, omit sugar and vanilla. Substitute water for brandy. If you like, substitute 1/4 cup of the flour with whole wheat or buckwheat flour. Fill with grated cheese, stewed vegetables, snipped herbs or whatever else sounds good.
Provenance: Adapted from Judy and Sarah Kagan by way of Epicurious.com.