I can pinpoint the day three years ago when it became my favorite burger (specifically, the Kaijo, with bacon, crispy onions and blue cheese). I converted friends and co-workers, turning even burger agnostics into burger believers.Then I was elevated in a sword-tapping ceremony to cheeseburger bureau chief, and production began on “The Cheeseburger Show.” And something changed. I found better burgers at places without Kuma’s notoriously long wait.
Before the angry e-mails and voice mails accusing me of heresy pour in, I need to make this clear: I do not think burgers at Kuma’s Corner (2900 W. Belmont Ave., 773-604-8769) are anything less than delicious. But before people hastily label something “the best,” I humbly suggest they expand their field of vision.
Exhibit A is the Richie Burger at Labriola Bakery Cafe in Oak Brook (3021 Butterfield Rd., 630-574-2008). On appearances alone, both pretzel-bun burgers (Labriola’s and the Famous Kuma’s Burger) offer similar compositions. Upon closer inspection:
Pretzel bun: It’s a tossup. Kuma’s get its buns from Highland Baking Co. in Northbrook. Labriola’s makes its buns in-house — though off-site.
Bacon: Labriola wins. Nueske’s bacon from Wisconsin, smoked with apple wood, is arguably the best bacon in the world.
Toppings: Labriola’s can claim caramelized onions. Kuma’s has a fried egg (and about 21 other varieties of burgers). Advantage: Kuma’s.
The beef: Here’s where the scales tip. The Angus beef patty at Labriola has nearly twice the fat content as Kuma’s ground chuck (80/20 lean-meat-to-fat, versus about 87/13 at Kuma’s). Translation: juicier, more butterlike flavors with Labriola. Speaking of which, the meat is cooked on a griddle with about a quarter-stick of butter at Labriola. In essence, beef confit. The first time I tasted Labriola’s, I almost invoked the Lord’s name in vain.
I love both, like two beautiful women vying for my affection. But the new gal just looks at me differently. Maybe it’s the butter in her eyes.