Several weeks ago, we asked you, our readers, to nominate the best dining neighborhoods in the city and suburbs. And boy, did you respond, clogging our in-boxes with heartfelt tributes to restaurant enclaves throughout the region.
We heard from the “hot” restaurant neighborhoods, such as the Wicker Park/Bucktown nexus, the always-bustling River North and budget-friendly Andersonville. There were votes for Old Town (“forks down, the best restaurant row in the city,” enthused one balloter), East Lakeview (“a wealth of incredible restaurants”), Edison Park (“a little bit of everything in a three-square-block area”) and Lincoln Park (“residents will not stand for bad food”).
In the suburbs, downtown La Grange got strong support, as did the Oak Brook-to-Lombard Butterfield Road corridor and Evanston (“the dining capital of the North Shore”). We heard from readers touting the Worth and Palos Heights area (specifically lauding Krapil’s steak house and Capri) and Oak Park’s business district (“so many outstanding options for such a small area”) and there was a well-organized effort on behalf of restaurant-rich Arlington Heights. Not to mention all the not-quite-clear-on-the-neighborhood-concept folks who voted for Sloppy Jo’s in Highland Park.
But after sifting through the top nominees, we settled on three finalists: Lincoln Square, Logan Square and downtown Forest Park.
To help you decide which nabe deserves your vote as Chicago’s best, we sent reporters to each neighborhood, to check out the eating scene first hand. Here, in political-campaign form (it is an election year, after all), are their reports.
– – –
Logan Square: Mix it up
IT’S HIP TO BE SQUARE
Here’s where Logan Square stands on the issues.
The Cuba Question: To this, Logan says a resounding YES. Cuban coffee and sandwiches are an excellent idea at Cafeteria Marianao (2246 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-278-4533) and at Cafe Con Leche (2714 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-289-4274).
The environment: Logan also comes out strongly pro-Earth with such spots as Lula Cafe (2537 N. Kedzie Blvd.; 773-489-9554), The Brown Sack (3706 W. Armitage Ave.; 773-661-0675) and Buona Terra (2535 N. California Ave.; 773-289-3800), which all often feature local and sustainable ingredients.
Immigration: Logan believes that Mexican immigration is one of the most delicious things. The candidate loves the fish tacos at El Pacifico (3534 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-342-4999), the tacos al pastor at Taqueria Moran (2226 N. California Ave.; 773-235-2663), the tamales from the tamale guy at the Logan Square and California Avenue Blue Line stops, the tres leches cake at Pierre’s Bakery (2747 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-252-8888) and the Oaxacan tamales from the Discount MegaMall (2500 N. Milwaukee Ave.; )
The economy: Logan loves the little guy but doesn’t scare away big business chains. We are home to at least one hamburger chain with a clown mascot as well as Pollo Loco (2715 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-394-5626), one of only two outlets of the Mexican grilled chicken chain in the Chicago area.
The Basque question: Logan endorses harmony between the Spanish government and Basques and Catalonian regions as seen in Azucar (2647 N. Kedzie Ave.; 773-486-6464). The elegant, upscale restaurant and cocktail bar features tapas from all over Spain.
Support for Colombia: Logan believes that the question of Colombia is best discussed over a banda paisa platter (featuring grilled steak and chicken along with yucca and plantains) and a bottle of BYO red wine at Gloria’s Cafe (3300 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-342-1050).
Growing Asian Influence: Logan recognizes the growing importance of Asia — especially China — by promoting excellent sushi at Hachi’s Kitchen, (2521 N. California Ave.; 773-276-8080), Thai food at Sai Mai (2532 N. California Ave.; 773-276-8424) and a heavy dose of standard Southern Chinese fare and a little Vietnamese (they serve pho) at Lin’s Garden. (3306 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-342-0760).
What about Puerto Rico?: Logan believes each diner should have the right to independently choose his own Puerto Rican specialties at Sabor Latino (3400 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-276-3524). We endorse the rice with pigeon peas, fried plantains, plantain fritters, blood sausage and stewed chicken.
Don’t be fooled by my opponents who want to lead you astray into suburbia or into a neighborhood where you might be run over by someone looking for a scarce parking space. Instead, make a run for Logan Square.
— Monica Eng
Forest Park: Leave the foodie swagger in the city
Great food, NO ATTITUDE
More Top Picks Best Gaming Keyboards
Every day in Chicago and its ravenous suburbs, hungry diners sit down to unmemorable meals served by indifferent waiters in restaurants remarkable only by their unremarkableness.
And they pay good money for precious plates of food and mounds of snobbery.
I met a diner in Forest Park, one Linda Bursey, a cashier at the Schauer Hardware right there on Madison. She’s the kind of cashier who seems to know just about everybody who walks through the door.
Well, Linda, she likes to go out to eat. She knows good food and she knows good dining.
And she loves Madison Street.
“Everybody is really friendly around here,” she said. “It’s not like Michigan Avenue. Not stuffy, you know.”
Diners have a right to expect every restaurant strip to be like Madison Street. Like Linda said: Friendly, not stuffy, a place where everybody knows your name.
And so, Forest Park’s diners’ bill of rights:
Diners have the right to a good, hearty breakfast: Hop over to Louie’s Grill (7422 W. Madison St.; 708-488-0836) for omelets and other diner fare at prices that won’t break the bank. On the other side of the street is Thyme and Honey (7525 W. Madison St.; 708-771-5752), a recent transplant from Oak Park, which serves up heaping huge portions of breakfast. Caffe DeLuca (7427 W. Madison St.; 708-366-9200, www.caffedeluca.com) has a mean Italian-scented Sunday brunch.
Diners have the right to great Italian: A big local favorite is Jimmy’s Place (7411 W. Madison St.; 708-771-7476), for its grandma-worthy lasagna and pizza. It’s one of the friendliest eateries around (Jimmy himself is frequently around to greet his customers, or pour them drinks). Nearby is Francesca’s Fiore (7407 W. Madison St.; 708-771-3063, www.miafrancesca.com), the 10th in the local Francesca’s chain and a Northern Italian stronghold.
And lastly, perhaps the most upscale restaurant around the strip, is the excellent La Piazza (410 Circle Ave.; 708-366-4010, www.piazzacafe.com), which manages to combine high-end dining (think lobsters and truffles) in a fun, casual, family-friendly atmosphere (think waiters bringing crayons and pinching a baby’s fat cheeks). There’s a jazz club in the basement too.
Diners have the right to a juicy hot dog with good snap: People drive from far away to eat the Vienna Beef hot dogs at the new Byron’s Hot Dogs (7237 W. Madison St; 708-771-7772, www.byronshotdogs.com).
Diners have the right to a bar like the one on “Cheers”: Doc Ryan’s (7432 W. Madison St.; 708-366-2823, www.docryans.com) fits the bill, and serves up a great cheeseburger too.
Diners have the right to an Irish bar that serves fantastic Creole food: Does Logan Square have one of those? Or Lincoln Square? Forest Park does. It’s called Shanahan’s (7353 W. Madison St.; 708-366-0775).
Diners have the right to mouth-watering Thai: Yum Thai (7748 W. Madison St.; 708-366-8888) gets raves. Want something off the beaten path? Ask for the Thai-language menu.
Diners have the right to a fantastic bowl of soup: Starship Restaurant and Catering (7618 W. Madison St.; 708-771-3016, www.starshiprestaurant.com) has three to four fresh soups daily — and subs.
Out there in Chicagoland, there is a hue and cry for good food without attitude.
Forest Park’s Madison Street understands that and has for a very long time. This delectable street deserves your vote.
— Trine Tsouderos
Lincoln Square: Turn on your way-back machine
THIS IS YOUR **FATHER’S** FOOD
What does Lincoln Square stand for, you ask?
Homeland Security: Now, don’t misunderestimate me. I am not campaigning as an ethnic restaurant haven. Or a German enclave with a few new tricks. I am campaigning as the most qualified candidate. If Chicago represents comfort and change simultaneously, then Lincoln Square, long the home to an impressive array of Thai and Mexican (the nuevo Brioso, 4603 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-989-9000), embodies this, this durability throughout change. Let other neighborhoods groan about sustainability. We have stability.
The other day, sitting in Cafe Selmarie (4729 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-989-5595), watching a slow snow spiral out of the sky, flake by flake, eating French toast made of the wispiest brioche, I wondered: Where are the hipsters? The skinny black jeans? Is it before noon? I thought, wait, no hipsters! Then I overheard a waiter and a customer. “Pilates, today?” he asked. “No, the opera, actually,” she replied. “Ah,” he said.
Yes … ahhhh. I spoke with Melissa Flynn, executive director of the local Chamber of Commerce, and excited as can be to point out “the number of older restaurants we have is remarkable,” from the 42-year-old Chicago Brauhaus (4732 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-784-4444) to the homespun grandma-tablecloth Italian of La Bocca della Verita (4618 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-784-6222), which turns 18 in May. Jury’s Food and Drink (4337 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-935-2255) has been serving a good charred burger at the southern end of Lincoln Square since 1979, and the legendary Lutz Cafe & Pastry Shop (2458 W. Montrose Ave.; 773-478-7785) celebrates its 60th anniversary this year.
Experience: The food in Lincoln Square is not extravagant or gentle but brings with it the professionalism of life lived, of dishes honed to perfection. Look to the graceful Italian of Erba (4520 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-989-4200), less than a year old. And Bistro Campagne (4518 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-271-6100), only 5 years old but serving a fresh organic French that carries the weight of decades. A year and a half ago they built a cottage onto the building — squint and it looks like a stony Gaelic farm house, complete with court yard. It feels at home.
Development: Despite all that, Lincoln Square is not a neighborhood to resist change. It just wants change to be smart. Of course, there is a Starbucks, and a Cold Stone. But there is also The Grind (4613 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-271-4482), the big generous windows of this coffeehouse steamed with conversation on a January night. As for the demon gentrification: Take the closing of the specialty market Bouffe last year. It was quickly replaced with Provenance Food & Wine (2312 W. Leland Ave.; 773-784-2314). And there’s the March closing of Delicatessen Meyer, a 53-year old German-American institution. Very shortly the spot is expected to be occupied by Gene’s Sausage Shop and Delicatessen (4750 N. Lincoln Ave.). I spoke with Derek Luszcz, son of Gene. He’s been operating on Belmont for decades and chose Lincoln Square as the location for his expansion because “that area is so culinary.” One tradition for another.
Family values: Friends, I entered Tank Sushi (4514 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-769-2600) expecting the hipster exception to the Lincoln Square rule. The negihama popped with flashes of freshness, and the togarashi-seared tuna, speared with asparagus and served over a grilled Fuji apple, briefly gave off a vibe that I had left the confines of Lincoln Square. Then children arrived, and arrived, and arrived, accompanied by parents, bundled into snowsuits. Across the street, Gilbert Langlois, the Chicago impresario behind the not-quite-year-old Chalkboard (4343 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-477-7144), awaited the evening rush. He spoke of Lincoln Square as the perfect spot for Chalkboard, “a place you wouldn’t mind eating if you couldn’t find a baby-sitter.” His tomato bisque with brioche blue cheese sandwiches should represent Lincoln Square in a neighborhood Olympics, so ideally suited it is to the tradition of its nearby streets.
Friends, I leave you this: The other day I received an e-mail from Cheryl Aponte. She works for the Nature Conservancy. She felt the need to testify for Lincoln Square, though she does not live there. “It’s not hip at all, which is fairly cool,” she said. They say it takes a village to raise a restaurant scene. I say, we are a village, so who needs a scene? Lincoln Square No More! Lincoln Square No More!
YEHHRRRGH! (Apologies to Howard Dean.)
— Christopher Borrelli
– – –
How to vote
More Top Picks Best Standing Desk Converters For Home Offices
Go to chicagotribune.com/neighborhood and cast your vote for one of our three finalists. (Want to write in a neighborhood? You can — at the “Other” choice.) Or e-mail [email protected]; put “Forest Park,” “Lincoln Square” or “Logan Square” in the subject line.
You can also vote in writing: Send your pick (“Forest Park,” “Lincoln Square” or “Logan Square”) to Best Neighborhood Dining, At Play, baiduhai, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago IL 60611.
You have until Monday, Feb. 4, to vote.
The winner will be announced in the Feb. 7 At Play section.
———-
See also “It’s Super Thursday / Time to vote for the Best Neighborhood Dining. Let’s hear from 3 candidates.” PAGE 1