Holiday shopping got you down? Cookbooks to the rescue!
It’s a no-brainer that the food lover in your life wants the latest and greatest cookbook title. But at this point in culinary history, the population of Foodie Nation is bigger than ever — including your son, who Tivos “Hell’s Kitchen” and “Top Chef”; your dad, a loyal blogger on the local restaurant chat site; and your beloved, who has a crush on Bobby Flay or Rachael Ray or maybe the entire cast of “Everyday Food.”
But wait, as the saying goes, there’s more. If you really look at that list and check it twice (which is, after all, what the jolly red-and-white expert does), maybe you’re overlooking more friends and relatives. But the Good Eating staff’s picks for best books this season embrace so many realms, there’s bound to be something for everyone. And, naturally, we hope you don’t forget to put yourself at the top of the list!
“Cooking”
By James Peterson
(Ten Speed Press, $40)
Know someone who’s beyond kitchen basics and wants to learn more? Give him or her this tome and let your chef wannabe learn the same way Peterson did: by cooking through this incredible book. Peterson’s techniques lean toward the French, but his flavors span the globe. How-to photos and informative sidebars, such as “poached eggs for a crowd,” complement the recipes.
“Local breads”
By Daniel Leader
(Norton, $35)
Does this sentence make sense to you? “Rye flour has twice as many pentosans as wheat.” If it does, then you’ll want this book. If the sentence doesn’t make sense to you, then you need Leader’s book, because he explains everything, including what pentosans are and why you should care. (Pentosans are compounds in flours that help breads retain leavening gases.) These are the kinds of breads that foodies dream of, from Czech, Polish and German ryes to French baguettes, pain au levain and Italian bigas and pane di Altamura.
“Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges”
By Jean-Georges Vongerichten
(Broadway Book, $40)
An elegant book reflects the globe-trotting style of chef and restaurateur Vongerichten, whose holdings include Vong’s Thai Kitchen here in Chicago. Recipes run the gamut from simple to challenging, but many are within the realm of the busy weeknight cook if some of the flourishes are pared back.
“Desserts by the Yard”
By Sherry Yard
(Houghton Mifflin, $35.95)
Executive pastry chef for Spago/Wolfgang Puck, Sherry Yard has produced yet another winning baking book. The recipes range from familiar to exotic, with chapters inspired by the chapters of her life, including nods to her native Brooklyn (blackout cake), time spent in Vienna (Sacher torte) and Oscar gigs in La La Land (chocolate truffle tarts). Yard’s concise yet friendly prose is icing on the cake.
“The Country Cooking of France”
By Anne Willan
(Chronicle Books, $50)
“Regionalism is back” declares the much-lauded cookbook author and cooking teacher before plunging into soups from Provence or Perigord or pork recipes from Normandy or Burgundy. Willan’s heralding of these classic recette du terroir (or recipes from a specific place) suffuses the book with a respect for authentic flavors, all the while exciting the reader with the desire to capture the essence of the real thing.
FOR ARMCHAIR COOKS OR WANNABE TV STARS
“No Reservations”
By Anthony Bourdain
(Bloomsbury, $34.95)
Based on chef Bourdain’s TV show of the same name, this book is heavy on photos and light on text, giving the behind-the-scenes travails and treats as Bourdain and his camera crew chew up the world. Great fun for Bourdain fans.
“The Sharper Your Knife, The Less You Cry”
By Kathleen Flinn
(Viking, $24.95)
Ever thought about culinary school? Here’s another behind-the-scenes story (with recipes) from an American in Paris and her angst and rewards during a stint at the famed Cordon Bleu. But it might make you think twice about signing up.
VEGETABLES RULE!
“How to Cook Everything Vegetarian”
By Mark Bittman
(Wiley, $35)
Bittman’s “How to Cook Everything” has become our “Joy of Cooking,” so we were intrigued by his newest. The New York Times columnist says he’s not a vegetarian, but that he, like more than half of us, is a “flexitarian.” He defines that as a person who’s willing to consider a meatless meal, which is a generous definition. Still, this isn’t the vegetarian cooking of the ’60s and ’70s, all boring brown rice and gummy, cheese-encrusted tofu casseroles. Instead, dishes like braised winter squash in a sweet-hot caramel sauce beckon.
EUROPEAN VACATION … FROM YOUR KITCHEN
“Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey”
By Efisio Farris
(Rizzoli, $39.95)
The Sardinian native (now chef of Arcodoro and Arcodoro & Pomodoro restaurants in Texas) introduces the cuisine of perhaps the least culinarily explored region of Italy. Flavored with the all-important pecorino di Sardo (sheep’s milk cheese) and heavy with pastas (including fregula, like Israeli couscous, and malloreddus, tear-drop shaped and ridged) and rustic main courses, the book creates a delicious portrait of the still very rural island.
SOUTHERN COMFORT
“A Love Affair with Southern Cooking”
By Jean Anderson
(William Morrow, $32.50)
Anderson weaves timelines, historical factoids, mini-profiles and personal anecdotes into a charming overview of Southern cuisine. Any fans of the region’s cuisine will be tempted to immediately begin recreating dishes from among the more than 200 well-written and well-documented recipes.
TAKING ON THE WORLD
“Modern Caribbean Cuisine”
By Wendy Rahamut
(Interlink Books, $35)
A Trinidadian food writer and cooking teacher leads us on a tropical journey mixing indigenous Caribbean ingredients in ways we may not yet have imagined. Based on culinary roots inherited from Africa, India and Europe, Rahamut creates what she describes as “fresher, tastier, spicy delicious” recipes. We found them creative, family-friendly and easily accessible to U.S. kitchens.
DECK THE COFFEE TABLE
“Fandango”
By Sandy Hill
(Artisan, $45)
Far-out themed parties include no-holds-barred decors and creative recipes for the gourmet cook from this California hostess. You’re bound to find some fun ideas for your own, though no-doubt smaller, entertaining plans. Try the great Catalonian pork tenderloin with figs recipe.
“Saha: A Chef’s Journey through Lebanon and Syria” By Greg and Lucy Malouf
(Periplus; $49.95)
Gorgeous photography makes this a coffee-table candidate, but the tour of these Middle Eastern countries, with the personal touch of this chef/writer team, will find you absorbing their words and recipes as well. You might even take this into the kitchen!
ALL RISE!
“Savory Baking from the Mediterranean”
By Anissa Helou
(Morrow, $29.95)
If the savory breads of the Mediterranean tempt you more than the region’s honey-drenched pastries, then this one is for you. The Beirut-born Helou’s previous books have been much acclaimed, and this one will no doubt win equal praise. Flatbreads, pizzas and focaccias, plain and flavored raised breads, pies and tarts and savory pastries tempt you from page after page. Whether it’s Sicilian bread or the little Moroccan filled triangles called , there’s plenty here to fill the baker’s need to knead. We wish only that the book had color photos.
“Great Coffeecakes, Sticky Buns, Muffins and More”
By Carole Walter
(Potter, $35)
Walter is a well-regarded baking teacher whose previous three books, on cakes, pies and tarts and cookies, have been lauded. Just in time for the holidays, when the year’s baking peaks in a frenzy of cinnamon, she comes again with this book. Here you’ll find more than 200 recipes for the homey, humble treats that suit a holiday brunch or a lazy Saturday afternoon’s tea. If the pecan-encrusted sticky buns on the cover don’t break your willpower (the recipe’s on page 183), you’re a lot tougher than we were.
CHICAGO CONNECTIONS
“Talk With Your Mouth Full”
By Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh
(Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $27.50)
The Chicago-based Hearty Boys’ first cookbook offers their signature mix of high-spirited fun, common-sense party planning advice and accessible dishes pulled from cuisines around the world. Particularly useful is the chapter of sample menus with timelines.
COOKING 4-1-1! FOR THE ROOKIE
“The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook: The New Classics”
(Potter, $35)
This is the companion to the very popular orange-covered “Original Classics” tome. The second volume includes a complete index for both books, and together the two offer more than 2,300 recipes that reflect contemporary cooking styles. The recipes come from the magazine, natch, so if you like the food style of the magazine, you’ll like this. Spicy mussels with chorizo, anyone?
FOR PINT-SIZED FOODIES
“Kitchen Playdates”
By Lauren Bank Deen
(Chronicle Books, $24.95)
For moms and dads who insist that entertaining as a family doesn’t automatically relegate the menu to chicken fingers, this book provides plans and recipes designed to engage foodies-to-be and their parents in dinner plans. Recipes for dishes such as mint tea and roast lamb; duck and andouille jambalaya, and lemon polenta cake offer age-appropriate tips for multi-generational get-togethers.
“Betty Crocker Kids Cook!”
(Wiley, $19.95)
Complete with wacky illustrations and recipe names geared for the preteen cook, this book guarantees that sooner than you think they’ll have picked up enough skills to bake Mother’s Day muffins. It’s appealing and fun with enough how-to illustrations to get your favorite shorty chef off to a good start.
REAL FIN-ESSE
“Fish Forever”
By Paul Johnson
(John Wiley & Sons, Inc., $34.95)
We love the great recipes (more than 100) balanced by clearly written and informative guides to selecting more than 70 environmentally sustainable fish. Johnson is a seafood connoisseur with experience as a chef, fishmonger and member of the board of the Seafood Watch Program at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. (A portion of Johnson’s royalties go to Save Our Wild Salmon.)
“Fantastico!”
By Rick Tramonto with Mary Goodbody
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(Broadway Books, $35)
Chef Tramonto celebrates his Italian heritage and the foods of Italy. Famed for Chicago’s Tru and other area restaurants, he brings considerable enthusiasm to the task, moving from crudo to bruschetta, crostini, panini, cheeses and antipasti. Vivid, mouthwatering photos.
“Pure Dessert”
By Alice Medrich
(Artisan, $35)
Daunted in the past by Medrich’s elaborate desserts in other books, we’re smitten with this less-is-more approach. Desserts are ingredient-driven (grains, chocolate and fruit are inspirations for three chapters), fairly uncomplicated and no less sensational because of it. Examples include chestnut and vanilla ice cream squares, a super-easy Italian chocolate-almond torte and chilled oranges in rum-caramel syrup. Sweet.
“The Seventh Daughter”
By Cecilia Chiang with Lisa Weiss
(Ten Speed Press, $35)
Restaurateur Chiang is credited with introducing pot stickers, hot-and-sour soup and lettuce cups to Americans. But there’s so much more to her story. This book, a memoir peppered with recipes, tells of a long, eventful life well-lived. Perfect for both cooks and those interested in Chinese culture.
SATISFYING A THIRST
“The House of Mondavi”
By Julia Flynn Siler
(Gotham Books, $28)
Thoroughly researched and engagingly told, this book uses the triumphs and tragedies of one family to give insight into the ever-growing, always changing, American wine industry. Knowledgeable wine lovers will enjoy the insider info; neophytes will be drawn to an age-old story of family struggle.
“Mediterranean Harvest”
By Martha Rose Shulman
(Rodale, $39.95)
The cuisines that surround the Mediterranean have a long tradition of meatless meals, and Shulman brings the best recipes from Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans, Greece, Turkey, the Middle East and North Africa to you in her latest book. With more than 500 recipes, there’s a ton of good eating between these covers. As the author of more than 25 books, Shulman has an instinctive and trustworthy palate; many of these dishes are heartier than one might first expect. Doesn’t wild mushroom ragout sound like something good to eat?
“1080 Recipes”
By Simone and Ines Ortega
(Phaidon Press, $39.95)
Known in Spain as “1080 Recetas de Cocina” and billed as that country’s “Joy of Cooking,” this comprehensive, weighty tome ranges from a Galician savory pie to an Andalusian chicken stuffed with Serrano ham and apples. Like the equivalent Italian effort (“The Silver Spoon”) by Phaidon in 2005, this book is a translation into English for the first time of a beloved and best-selling classic, first published 30 years ago. For those wishing to jump into the ever-expanding Spanish food craze, this beautifully and playfully illustrated volume is arguably the source for nearly everything.
“I’ll Drink to That”
By Rudolph Chelminski
(Gotham Books, $27.50)
Don’t dis Beaujolais in front of Chelminski, an American expat who lives in France. He loves the stuff and his enthusiasm for it may convince you to love it too. The rags-to-riches story of winemaker Georges Duboeuf is used to chart the wine’s dizzying rise to international renown, but Chelminski finds that respect for Beaujolais is less universal.
“The Story of Tea”
By Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss
( Ten Speed Press, $29.95)
Massachusetts-based specialty food purveyors travel the world learning everything they can about tea and then share it all in this encyclopedic but enthusiastic work. Learn about tea varieties, tea customs, cooking with tea (there are 10 recipes) and, most important, how to brew the perfect cup.
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20 books every cook should have
The James Beard Foundation Book Awards Committee has compiled a list of “20 Essential Books to Build Your Culinary Library.”
The list celebrates the 20th anniversary of the foundation and the publication of a new edition of James Beard’s classic, “Beard on Food.”
The list, in alphabetical order, is limited to books still in print and can serve as the core of any cook’s library, according to the committee.
1. “American Cookery,” James Beard
2. “Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico,” Rick Bayless
3. “Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook”
4. “Classic Indian Cooking,” Julie Sahni
5. “Complete Techniques,” Jacques Pepin and Leon Pererr
6. “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking,” Marcella Hazan
7. “How to Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for Great Food,” Mark Bittman
8. “The Joy of Cooking,” Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker
9. “The King Arthur Flour Baker’s Companion: The All-Purpose Baking Cookbook”
10. “Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts,” Maida Heatter
11. “Martha Stewart’s Hors d’Oeuvres Handbook,” Martha Stewart
12. “Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volume One,” Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck
13. “The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking: Techniques and Recipes.” Barbara Tropp
14. “The New Food Lover’s Companion,” Sharon Tyler Herbst
15. “The Oxford Companion to Wine,” Jancis Robinson
16. “Rick Stein’s Complete Seafood,” Rick Stein
17. “The Silver Palate Cookbook.” Sheila Lukins and Julie Rosso
18. “The Thrill of the Grill: Techniques, Recipes, and Down-Home Barbecue,” Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby
19. “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone,” Deborah Madison
20. “The Way to Cook,” Julia Child
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Some favorite books from 2007
Here are a few cookbooks that were favorably reviewed in Good Eating during 2007:
“The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution,” by Alice Waters (Clarkson Potter, $35)
“Cucina del Sole: A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking,” by Nancy Harmon Jenkins (William Morrow, $29.95)
“The Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate,” by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg (Hyperion, $35)
“The Essential Baker,” by Carol Bloom (Wiley, $40)
“In Nirmala’s Kitchen: Everyday World Cuisine,” by Nirmala Nirine (Lake Isle Press, $19.95)
“The Spatulatta Cookbook,” by Isabella and Olivia Gerasole (Scholastic, $16.99)
“The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink,” by Andrew F. Smith (Oxford University Press, $49.95)
“Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province,” by Fuschia Dunlop (W.W. Norton, $32.95)
“Silver Palate Cookbook: 25th Anniversary Edition,” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukin (Workman, $19.95)
“Vegetable Harvest,” by Patricia Wells (Morrow, $34.95)
– – –
A taste of the best
A sampling of recipes from our favorite cookbooks of the year
Italian chocolate-almond torte
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: One (9-inch) cake, 10 servings
*This delectable flourless chocolate cake is from “Pure Dessert,” by Alice Medrich. It is done when the center jiggles just slightly; it will firm up as it cools. It’s tender when warm, and may tear while being inverted. Cocoa and/or confectioners’ sugar dusted on top will camouflage imperfections.
1 cup (5 ounces) unblanched or blanched whole almonds
7 ounces good-quality unsweetened chocolate, roughly chopped
1 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
7 large eggs whites (1 cup)
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Confectioners’ sugar or unsweetened cocoa powder
Sweetened whipped cream, optional
1. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease the sides of a 9-inch springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
2. Combine the almonds, chocolate, 1/2 cup of the sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse until the almonds and chocolate are very finely chopped but not completely pulverized. Set aside.
3. In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer or using a hand-held mixer and a large bowl, beat the egg whites with cream of tartar until soft, moist peaks are formed when the beaters are lifted. Gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar and continue to beat until the egg whites are stiff but not dry. Add one-third of the nut mixture to the egg whites and fold in with a large rubber spatula until nearly incorporated. Fold in half of the remaining nuts, then fold in the rest of the nuts.
4. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly. Bake until torte has risen and is golden-brown on top, 25-30 minutes. Set pan on wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the sides of the pan and invert the cake onto the rack. Remove the bottom of the pan and then the parchment liner. [Using another rack as leverage], turn the cake right side up and cool completely. Cover or wrap tightly, and store up to 3 days at room temperature.
5. To serve, transfer the cake to a serving plate. Dust with powdered sugar or cocoa, and serve slices with a dollop of whipped cream, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
271 calories, 52% of calories from fat, 18 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 29 g carbohydrates, 8 g protein, 77 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
– – –
Bene-crusted shrimp balls
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 minute
Yield: 15-20 balls
*”Bene seeds are much liked in the Caribbean, where we make bene squares and bene balls — both popular candies,” writes Wendy Rahamut in “Modern Caribbean Cuisine.” The more common spelling is benne, and it’s the African name for sesame seeds.
1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined
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2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons minced chives
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 piece (1-inch long) ginger
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, ground black pepper
1/2 cup water chestnuts
1/2 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 egg beaten
1/2 cup sesame seeds
Vegetable oil for deep frying
1. In a food processor combine the shrimp, cornstarch, soy sauce, chives, garlic, ginger, sesame oil, salt and black pepper. Process to a smooth texture, then add the chestnuts and process just until they are chopped. Taste the mixture and adjust seasoning.
2. Form the shrimp mixture into 1-inch balls. Set aside. Mix the flour and white pepper. Dredge the shrimp balls in flour, then dip in the egg and roll in the bene, or sesame seeds, to coat.
3. Heat oil in large saucepan to 375 degrees. Fry, in batches, turning as needed, until cooked through and golden, about 1-2 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Nutrition information per serving:
119 calories, 65% of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 6 g protein, 163 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
– – –
Italian sausage with roasted peppers and onions
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time:23 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
*”Sausage, roasted peppers and onions are about as homestyle Italian as you can get,” writes Rick Tramonto in “Fanastico! Little Italian Plates and Antipasti from Rick Tramonto’s Kitchen.”
1/4 cup olive oil
1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausage links
1 each: green, red, yellow bell pepper
1 large yellow onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
3/4 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a shallow baking pan and roast the sausage for 10 to 15 minutes, until about three-quarters cooked. Turn occasionally during roasting to ensure even cooking. Remove the sausage from the oven but do not turn off the oven.
2. Meanwhile, slice the peppers into strips about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. In a heavy ovenproof saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot, saute the onion, bell peppers, garlic and red pepper for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the peppers begin to wilt.
3. Cut the sausage links into 1 1/2- to 2-inch pieces. Add to the peppers and onion and stir to mix.
4. Pour the chicken stock into the saute pan and put in the oven. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until the sausage is cooked through. Remove from the oven and swirl in the butter until incorporated. Stir in the basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide among 4 plates and garnish with cheese.
Nutrition information per serving:
398 calories, 75% of calories from fat, 33 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 43 mg cholesterol, 11 g carbohydrates, 14 g protein, 1,127 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
– – –
Roast chicken with chunky miso sauce and grapefruit
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
*”This is the quintessential Vong dish, half French and half Asian,” writes Jean-Georges Vongerichten in “Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges.” Miso and yuzu may be found at Asian or specialty markets. Frisee is sold in specialty markets but any crisp green, such as Romaine, can be used.
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 chicken, 3 pounds, cut into pieces
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
1 tablespoon chunky miso, or use any miso
1 tablespoon yuzu or lime juice
1 grapefruit, peeled, segmented, juices reserved, chopped into 1/2-inch cubes
1 fresh Thai chili, seeded, minced
1 bunch frisee, leaves separated
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt and white pepper; add to the skillet, skin side down. Cook until very brown on one side, about 10 minutes, then turn the chicken and transfer to the oven and cook until cooked through, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, put the creme fraiche and miso in a saucepan over low heat. Whisk the mixture together and warm gently; do not allow the mixture to boil. When bubbles begin forming around the edges, remove from the heat and whisk in yuzu juice; set aside.
3. In a bowl, toss the grapefruit and its reserved juices with the chili and 2 tablespoons of the oil. In a separate bowl, toss the frisee with the lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt.
4. Spoon the miso sauce into the bottom of four serving bowls. Center the chicken pieces on the sauce, then spoon the solids from the grapefruit mixture on top. Garnish with the frisee, drizzle on the remaining grapefruit juice, and serve.
Nutrition information per serving:
726 calories, 66% of calories from fat, 53 g fat, 17 g saturated fat, 159 mg cholesterol, 16 g carbohydrates, 47 g protein, 662 mg sodium, 6 g fiber
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The season is fleeting. Survive it. Savor it! The Holidaily shows you how, with 50 days of timesaving strategies, tips and tales throughout the baiduhai and at chicagotribune.com/holidaily.