First impressions: This Asian fusion eatery throws a welcoming glow onto the sidewalk from its long, wood-framed windowpanes lined with ricepaper hanging lamps. Once inside, track lighting, pale wood, a bubbling aquarium and candles continue that glow; everything at Jai Yen is very minimalist, but comfortable and quiet — Zenlike, one might even say. It felt a little like a yoga studio.On the plate: The menu offers a hefty selection of sushi, from basic rolls to nigiri to the more exotic chef’s specials; the de rigueur fried rice, pad Thai and yakisoba noodle dishes are also present, alongside tempura, Thai soups, teriyaki and a grand array of appetizers. Most entrees are offered with a choice of chicken, beef, tofu, shrimp ($2 extra) or vegetables, meaning Jai Yen has plenty for carnivores and herbivores alike. All dishes have a lovely presentation on modern square or rectangular plates, with delicate, edible garnishes such as thin-sliced beets, julienne carrots and shaved daikon. A couple are over Cheap Eats’ limit.
At your service: Servers, dressed in minimalist black, are very knowledgeable and helpful, and equally quick with recommendations and the water pitcher. Staff tag-team the tables, making sure customers are not left staring at dirty plates and empty glasses for long. Service is friendly and professional but understated.
Second helpings: A hotasake appetizer (four scallops speared on toothpicks with smoked salmon, and then drizzled with a housemade mayo-wasabi-truffle oil sauce) was delicious and quickly devoured — the scallops were a trifle overcooked, but not enough to detract from the dish, and the sauce was delicious. An order of chive dumplings featured crisp seared patties filled with fresh chives, served with a housemade soy-based dipping sauce that was slightly sweet — a great counterpoint to the chives.
A chef’s special green turtle maki (shrimp tempura, salmon, mayo, wasabi tobiko and unagi sauce) was a nice blend of crunchy, sweet and tangy, but is best shared as it’s very rich. Teriyaki salmon was also a bit overcooked — in fact, the teriyaki sauce had pretty much caramelized, crisping the edges of the fish. But oddly enough, that really worked for the dish. Goy see mee was a favorite, with a rich sauce, tasty fresh veggies (straw mushrooms, carrots, broccoli) and crispy egg noodles. Veggie tempura featured delicious vegetables (sweet potato, eggplant, zucchini, broccoli and more) coated in a light, crunchy batter and served with a slightly spicy dipping sauce; we’d happily eat this weekly.
Take a pass: Basil fried rice with tofu tasted strongly — too strongly — of oil, and the tofu was tough. Broth in an order of tempura udon was salty and the noodles soggy, though the accompanying tempura was delicious. Orders of asparagus and cucumber maki rolls featured unappetizingly soggy nori and rice; we could only finish them with liberal applications of pickled ginger and soy sauce.
Thirst quenchers: Take advantage of the BYOB with no corkage fee, or sample bracing, not-too-sweet Thai iced tea and coffee; assorted hot herbal and green teas; delicious bubble teas, especially the honeydew; and various soft drinks.
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Price range: Appetizers, $3.75-$9.95; salads, $$3.25-$7.95; soups, $2-$3.50; entrees, $5.95-$16.50; specialty maki, $7.95-$11.95; sushi-sashimi combos, $11.95-$18.95; nigiri sushi, $1.75-$3 per piece; maki rolls, $3-$10.95; desserts, $2-$3.75, plus specials; beverages, $1-$3.25.
Jai Yen
(2 forks)
3736 N. Broadway St.
773-404-0555, jai-yen.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: MC, V
Noise factor: Conversation-friendly
Delivery: Yes
NEARBY
Fauna: Elephants, that is. Nearby is Chicago’s own thrift emporium, the Brown Elephant (3651 N. Halsted St.; 773-549-5943), where you can browse for everything from skis to tees — and be sure to check out the tape and CD section across from the checkout counter. Also plan an early stop, as this shop closes its doors at 6 p.m.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune.