For a day filled with international flavor, Chicago history and affordable bars, you can’t beat Albany Park. Nestled between Irving Park Road and Bryn Mawr Avenue, the Chicago River and Pulaski Road, the area boasts gastronomical fare from around the globe. It’s also home to one of three Illinois cemeteries on the National Register of Historic places.
AFTERNOON
Begin your culinary adventure at Big Pho (3737 W. Lawrence Ave., 773-478-8282). The Vietnamese noodle soup shop serves generous portions, and the prices range from $5.49 to $7.49.
Head west on Lawrence to Pulaski, and you’ll pass everything from hookah bars and $5 barbers to Korean and Mexican bakeries and an Ecuadorian juice shop, but our mission is Bohemian National Cemetery (5255 N. Pulaski, 773-539-8442). It was established in 1877, after a Bohemian woman was refused burial at a Bohemian-Polish Catholic cemetery. From its inception, decedents of all faiths were allowed burial.
Beautiful marbled and patina-tinged gravestone sculptures pepper the 124-acre cemetery, as well as several monuments. The “Mother,” by Czech sculptor Albin Polasek, is the only U.S. cemetery monument honoring mothers, according to the cemetery. The 8′ 5″ 8-foot 5-inch “Hiker” sculpture, a Spanish War Memorial, is also of note.
Buried here are 143 of the 844 victims of the Eastland ship disaster, many of whom were Bohemian. Also of historical significance is Mayor Anton Cermak’s family mausoleum. After paying your respects, it’s time for some light diversion. Stop in at Gambler’s (4908 N. Pulaski, 773-545-3566), where domestic drafts are $1.50, cocktails are less than $5, and darts are free.
EVENING
Ready to nosh? For Guatemalan food, check out Mayan Sol (3830 W. Lawrence, 773-539-4398). Have a hankering for traditional Korean barbecue? Lawrence has the honorary name Seoul Drive. Chicago Kalbi (3752 W. Lawrence, 773-604-8183) will titillate the taste buds. But for an authentic and unique experience, visit its sister restaurant, Chiyo (3800 W. Lawrence, 773-267-1555). Known for its shabu shabu, Chiyo is the only place in Chicago that offers Wagyu. Flown in from Japan, Wagyu is considered superior to Kobe (which the restaurant also serves). Shabu shabu is a four-course meal that centers around a flavorful dish made at the table. Paper-thin slices of beef are immersed in boiling water flavored with an array of seasonal vegetables. Dipping sauces add punch. For the adventurous, order the kaiseki (seven course prefix, 24-hour notice required), or the Omakase (chef’s choice). It also offers fantastic sushi and an impressive sake selection with more than 25 offerings. Or have a glass of shochu, a Japanese “vodka” that comes in four flavors: buckwheat, barley, wasabi and sweet potato.
Cap off the night in a cozy atmosphere at McGills (4553 N. Pulaski Rd., 773-478-6096), where $2 domestic pints and $3.50 call drinks, along with daily food and drink specials, await.