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North Atlantic Cod Fillet Dinner

CULVER’S $9.99 for 3 pieces

www.culvers.com

1,827 calories; 107 g fat; 2,330 mg sodium

The pitch: “Come on into Culver’s for a real taste of freshness. Try our … tender, flaky North Atlantic Cod … So throw your line in today, and taste why there’s just no comparison to the great-tasting variety you’ll find only at Culver’s.”

First thought: Three golden pieces of cod, as big as Twinkies on steroids, are served with tartar sauce and a wedge of lemon. A remarkably light and crispy batter, almost tempura style, made from a Culver’s family recipe. Flaky with hints of butter. Filling.

On second thought: I took one look at the nutritional information (this is before adding tartar sauce) and fell off my rocker.

McGrade: A-

Crispy Fish Taco

DEL TACO $1.79

www.deltaco.com

290 calories; 16 g fat; 460 mg sodium

The pitch: “Want flavor? Go fish. As in a crispy fish fillet covered in freshly made salsa, crunchy cabbage, and our rich, creamy secret sauce, all served up in a pair of warm corn tortillas with a wedge of lime.”

First thought: This longtime Southern California chain arrives in Chicago, bringing with it a Southern California favorite: the venerable fish taco. On first bite, a neat warm-cool textural contrast. Refreshingly sweet tomatoes and cilantro salsa, with added squeeze of lime, wakes up the senses.

On second thought: The fish tastes more like breading than fish.

McGrade: B+

Alaskan Flounder Basket

LONG JOHN SILVER’S $2.99

www.ljsilvers.com

250 calories, 11 g fat, 910 mg sodium (1 piece fish)

The pitch: “The flakiest, hand-cut, real-fish revolution from the icy coast of the great white north … Forget the square patties from the other burger joints and reshape the way you look at fast food fish.”

First thought: Fried up nicely with flecks of black pepper in a not-too-heavy breading. Snow-white interior with a clean flavor. With corn on the cob and hush puppies in the price, a decent value.

On second thought: What’s left to say? It’s not bad, it’s not amazing, but it’s good … for fish that takes 30 seconds to serve.

McGrade: B

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