If you’ve reached your 20s without suffering from acne and think you’ve escaped the blemish, think again.
According to acne.org, 50 percent of adult women and 25 percent of adult men suffer from acne, the blockage of an oil gland that results in a blemish. They exhaust over-the-counter options and pop prescribed pills with unwanted side effects, to no avail.
While most acne is genetic, hormonal or related to stress, the oil chemistry of adult acne is more challenging than teen acne, said Dennis Gross, a New York dermatologist and author of “Your Future Face.”
“Adult oil is a greater source of nutrients to bacteria,” Gross said. “That bacteria builds up and is then attacked by the immune system, causing the blemish to become more red and inflamed.”
The onset of adult acne is usually in the late 20s to early 30s. Angry and unable to get clear, many adults experience depression and damaged self-esteem.
“They feel that acne is only something for teenagers, making them feel unprofessional and insecure,” Gross said. “On top of all this, most are lost and confused about what steps to take in order to correct the condition.”
Genetics and stress are factors that cause acne in both men and women. “Stress increases cortisol, which changes the chemistry of oil,” Gross said. “This change can then lead to acne, which definitely causes more stress–thus more cortisol.”
With so many products in a growing category of the $8.2 billion skin-care industry, the choices can be daunting. The biggest problem: Many adults dry out their skin with use of oil-stripping products or excessive washing. This exacerbates the acne.
“The resulting dead skin adds more debris to an already clogged pore, congesting the complexion even more,” Gross said.
Treatments
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Solutions vary depending on the cause, severity and type of acne. Remember to wash the face with bare hands and a gentle cleanser and follow with an oil-free moisturizer containing sunscreen.
– Start with over-the-counter products containing two antibacterial products, salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. Studies prove the 2.5 percent version of the latter is as effective as 5 percent, without the overdrying.
– If over-the-counter products don’t help, see a dermatologist. He will most likely prescribe a topical gel that has two anti-bacterials in it, usually benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin. If that doesn’t work, he may try a retinol-based ointment such as Differin or Retin-A, plus an oral antibiotic. Accutane is prescribed for cystic acne.
– Serums and peels containing exfoliating ingredients such as vitamin C or glycolic, salicylic or lactic acids can be administered by a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician on a regular basis.
– Other options: Laser- and light-based therapies are used on those who see little or no results with traditional therapies. Injectable steroids also can be used to spot reduce a pronounced blemish. [SOURCES: JEROME POTOZKIN, M.D.]
ACNE MYTHS
– Acne is not a teenager’s skin disease.
– Overwashing your face does not prevent acne–it can exacerbate it.
– The jury’s still out on diet and acne; to be safe, lower your iodide intake.
– Drink lots of water and get plenty of vitamin B.
– Wash your face after exercise.
– Spot reduction is not as effective as treating the whole face.
– Flat acne (blackheads) and inflamed acne (whiteheads, cysts, pustules) should be treated differently.
– If left untreated, non-inflammatory acne can become inflamed. [SOURCES: DENNIS GROSS, M.D.; LAURA COOKSEY, FACE REALITY SKIN CARE]
CAUSES OF ACNE
Women
– Hormonal fluctuations; stopping use of birth control pills can trigger acne.
– Pore-clogging powders and other cosmetics lead to blackheads and other flat acne.
Men
– Improper shaving causes ingrown hairs that block oil glands and become infected.
– Harsh soaps dry out skin; resulting dead skin adds more debris to already clogged pores.
Both
– Stress increases cortisol, which changes oil chemistry.
– Acne is a hereditary disease of the pores.
– “Cell phone” acne on the chin; acne from repetitive touching of the skin or wearing hats or helmets.
– Some experts link acne to diets high in salt, changes in humidity and high levels of calcium or magnesium in city tap water. [SOURCES: DENNIS GROSS, M.D.; JULIE ANUSEVICIUS, FACE REALITY SKIN CARE].
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