Good Eating has planted a bumper crop of articles and recipes this year. The topics reflect what has been happening in the food world, from the movement toward buying local, sustainable produce in Chicago to the growing emphasis on Latin cooking from South America and the Caribbean.
We looked at the benefits of a return to slow cooking in contrast to our fast-food lifestyles but also how to make salad dressing in a flash. We visited with an Illinois cheesemaker who turns her goats’ milk into ethereal cheeses. And we championed more ethnic cooking from places like Vietnam and China.
The recipes accompanying these articles? The staff at Good Eating has voted them our favorites of the year. Please clip them and put them in your recipe scrapbook to bring out again in the New Year. Enjoy!
–Carol Mighton Haddix
Spiced organic carrot soup
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Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
For the fall installment of our “Season by Season” series written by Bill Daley, chef Bruce Sherman of Chicago’s North Pond restaurant developed this unique soup flavored with ginger and coriander.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 piece ( 1/2 inch long) ginger root, chopped
1/2 rib celery, thinly sliced
1 pound organic carrots, thinly sliced
1 head fennel, white bulb only, cored, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground pepper, ground coriander
2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) chicken broth
1/2 stick ( 1/4 cup) butter, cubed
1. Heat the oil in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium-high heat; add shallot, garlic, ginger and celery. Cook, stirring, until slightly softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the carrots, fennel, salt and pepper. Cook until the carrots and fennel begin to soften but do not brown, about 6 minutes.
2. Stir in the coriander; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in the chicken broth. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until the carrots and fennel pieces can be easily mashed, about 25 minutes.
3. Puree the vegetable mixture in a blender or food processor. Pulse in pieces of butter, one at a time, until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine-meshed strainer into the saucepan; heat over medium heat, about 3 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
239 calories, 59% of calories from fat, 16 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 7 g protein, 1,121 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
Four-pepper chicken kebabs (Kafta)
Preparation time: 12 minutes
Cooking time: 7 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
The Good Eating staff loved this recipe for kebabs of ground chicken shaped around a skewer, which accompanied a July cover story on healthful grilling by Robin Mather Jenkins. “This recipe was inspired by a dish I had in Detroit’s Fendi restaurant, which is owned by Caldeans, Iraqi Christians,” writes Steven Raichlen in “The Barbecue Bible.” “For milder kafta, use sweet paprika; for spicier, use hot.”
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon each: freshly ground pepper, hot or sweet paprika, ground cumin
3 tablespoons each: finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, minced green bell pepper, minced red bell pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1. Prepare a grill for high heat. Combine the chicken, garlic, salt, pepper, paprika and cumin in a food processor; pulse to a coarse paste. Pulse in the parsley and bell peppers; do not puree. Place the chicken mixture in a bowl.
2. Divide the chicken mixture into 4 equal portions. Lightly wet your hands with cold water; mold one portion onto a metal skewer with your hands, forming a flattened sausage about 12 inches long and 3 /4-inch thick. (If using bamboo skewers, soak in water at least half an hour before using to keep them from burning on the grill.) Place each kebab on a baking sheet lined with plastic wrap.
3. Brush the kebabs lightly with some of the oil; place skewers on grill, oiled side down. Grill until browned, about 3 minutes. Brush with the remaining oil; turn. Grill until cooked through, 2-4 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
160 calories, 36% of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 63 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 23 g protein, 639 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Sesame bok choy, yellow peppers and onions
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Our July cover story on the wok proclaimed it the original non-stick pan: versatile, durable and fun to use. It’s the only pan you really need, declared Food Editor Carol Mighton Haddix, who developed this dish to showcase the wok’s many attributes.
2 tablespoons peanut oil
6 heads baby bok choy, each cut in 2-inch pieces
2 yellow bell peppers, cored, ribbed, cut in strips
1 red onion, sliced
1/4 cup soy sauce or tamari
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Heat oil in a wok over high heat. Add bok choy; stir-fry 2 minutes. Add the bell peppers and onion; stir-fry 2 more minutes. Add soy sauce, sesame oil and pepper to taste; cook, tossing to coat vegetables. Transfer to a platter; garnish with cilantro.
Nutrition information per serving:
181 calories, 30% of calories from fat, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 23 g carbohydrates, 14 g protein, 1,218 mg sodium, 10 g fiber
Cider-braised pork with onions and apples
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours
Yield: 6 servings
Developed by Robin Mather Jenkins for her “Slow Cooking” column, this recipe features the apples and cider of autumn. Serve with crisp sauteed shredded red cabbage (add a jot of vinegar to keep its color bright) and mashed potatoes to take advantage of the flavorful braising liquids.
3 1/2 to 4 pounds boneless pork shoulder trimmed of fat, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 onions, thinly sliced in half-moons
2 apples, cored, sliced in half-moons
1 cup each: cider, chicken broth
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
1. Place cubed pork in a large sealable bag. Season flour with salt and pepper to taste; add to bag. Shake bag until pork is lightly covered. Remove pork from bag; discard bag.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add half the pork; brown on all sides. Remove browned pork from Dutch oven; keep warm. Repeat with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and pork, removing from Dutch oven and keeping warm as browned.
3. Add the onions and apples to Dutch oven. Cook, stirring often, until onions are translucent, about 6 minutes. Add cider to the Dutch oven; cook, stirring to scrape up browned bits. Heat to a boil; cook until cider has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add chicken broth and reserved pork, along with any juices from the pork. Return to a boil; cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pork is tender, about 2 hours. Stir in the mustard and thyme; cover and simmer 30 minutes longer.
Nutrition information per serving:
480 calories, 44% of calories from fat, 23 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 118 mg cholesterol, 23 g carbohydrates, 43 g protein, 665 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
Pumpkin flan with gingersnap crust
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 50 minutes
Chilling time: 8 hours
Yield: 8 servings
Thanksgiving this year took on a Latin theme, featuring bold and spicy flavors. This dessert from chef Douglas Rodriguez of DeLaCosta restaurant drew raves from tasters. “The pumpkin flan tastes like pumpkin pie, Latino style,” he said. He uses fresh pumpkin, but 15 ounces of canned pureed pumpkin can be substituted.
1/2 small pumpkin, about 8 ounces, peeled, seeded, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 can (14 ounces) condensed milk
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
8 eggs
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
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1 box (16 ounces) gingersnap cookies
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, melted
1. Cover pumpkin with water in a medium saucepan; heat to a simmer over high heat. Cook until fork-tender, about 15 minutes; drain. Transfer pumpkin to a food processor; add condensed and evaporated milks, eggs and 3 tablespoons of the sugar. Puree until smooth; set aside.
2. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 cup of the sugar in a saucepan over medium heat; cook, stirring, until it becomes a light amber color, about 20 minutes. Pour the caramel into a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Pour in the puree.
3. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the loaf pan in a deep baking dish partially filled with water. Bake until the flan is set, about 50 minutes. Remove the custard from the oven; cool completely on a wire rack.
4. Combine the cookies and melted butter in a food processor; pulse until well blended. Pack the mixture onto the cooled flan; refrigerate at least 8 hours. Run a small knife along edges of the mold to loosen; invert onto a serving plate.
Nutrition information per serving:
730 calories, 33% of calories from fat, 27 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 262 mg cholesterol, 107 g carbohydrates, 17 g protein, 633 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Duck with pear-cardamom puree and caramel almonds
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Chef Andrew Zimmerman of del Toro Cafe provided this recipe, which accompanied our fall installment in the “Season by Season” series. Zimmerman prefers to use Spanish marcona almonds, which have a more intense flavor and are sold at specialty stores and some supermarkets. Substitute with blanched almonds.
Caramel almonds:
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1 1/4 cups marcona almonds
Pear-cardamom puree:
3 Bosc or other pears, peeled, cored, diced
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup water
5 cardamom seeds or 1 4 teaspoon ground cardamom
Duck:
4 boneless duck breasts, 6-8 ounces each, skin on
1/8 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground pepper
1. For the almonds, combine the sugar and just enough of the water to moisten it in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the mixture turns golden brown and measures about 275 degrees on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. Stir in the almonds, stirring quickly to coat. Pour almonds onto a parchment-lined baking pan; cool. Roughly chop the almonds, removing excess caramel; set aside.
2. For the puree, heat the pears, butter, water and cardamom seeds to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat; cook until the pears are tender, about 15 minutes. Puree in a blender until smooth; pass through a fine-mesh sieve. Keep warm.
3. For the duck, score the skin side of the duck in a crosshatch pattern, taking care not to cut into the flesh; season with salt and pepper. Place skin side down in a cold, dry skillet; cook the duck over medium heat until the skin has started to turn a deep golden brown, about 7 minutes. Turn; cook 3 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack over a plate; set aside.
4. Spoon a fourth of the pear puree onto each plate; slice each duck breast, fanning out over the puree. Scatter some of the caramelized chopped almonds over the duck.
Nutrition information per serving:
871 calories, 48% of calories from fat, 47 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 246 mg cholesterol, 65 g carbohydrates, 52 g protein, 256 mg sodium, 8 g fiber
Goat cheese ravioli with sage and brown butter
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 3 servings
For a January cover story on Downstate cheesemaker Leslie Cooperband and her farmstead dairy, reporter Robin Mather Jenkins developed this recipe to spotlight Cooperband’s fresh goat cheese.
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 onion, minced
6 ounces fresh goat cheese
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
30 won ton wrappers
13 to 15 fresh sage leaves plus 1/2 teaspoon minced sage
1 tablespoon vermouth or dry white wine
1. Heat the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Transfer 2 tablespoons of the onion from the skillet to a medium bowl. Add the goat cheese, egg, salt and pepper to taste to the bowl; mix well.
2. Wet one won ton wrapper with cold water with your fingers. Place 1 tablespoon of the cheese mixture on the center of the wrapper; place one sage leaf on top. Cover with another wet won ton wrapper; squeeze out as much air as possible. Press firmly to seal edges. If desired, use a biscuit cutter to cut into rounds. Repeat procedure until all the cheese mixture has been used, making 13 to 15 ravioli.
3. Heat a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Return the skillet with the remaining onions to the stove top over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until onion and butter turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; stir in vermouth and the minced sage.
4. Add 4 to 6 of the ravioli to the boiling water. Cook until they float to the surface, about 3-4 minutes. Remove ravioli from water; drain. Place in a shallow buttered dish. Repeat with remaining ravioli. Pour the browned butter and onions over the ravioli; serve hot.
Nutrition information per serving:
520 calories, 46% of calories from fat, 26 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 134 mg cholesterol, 49 g carbohydrates, 21 g protein, 1,159 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Chicken curry with sweet potatoes and lime-pepper-salt dipping sauce
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 5 servings
Nancie McDermott’s cookbook “Quick & Easy Vietnamese” drew praise in a Bookshelf review for its recipes, including this one. “Make this curry and enjoy it in traditional Vietnamese style, accompanied by a warm, crusty baguette perfect for dipping in the luscious and fragrant sauce,” McDermott writes.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
4 shallots, thinly sliced
2 stalks fresh lemon grass, trimmed, cut into 2-inch lengths
1 piece (1 1/2 inches long) fresh ginger root, minced
3 tablespoons curry powder
1 1/2 pounds whole bone-in chicken thighs or legs, or 1 pound boneless chicken breasts or thighs, cut into bite-sized chunks
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon red chili flakes or chili-garlic sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water
2 sweet potatoes or 4 carrots, peeled, cut into medium chunks
1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
Lime-pepper-salt dipping sauce, see recipe
1. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Stir in the garlic, shallots, lemon grass and ginger. Stir in the curry powder; cook, stirring, until fragrant and the shallots are translucent, about 2 minutes.
2. Add the chicken in one layer if possible; cook 1 minute. Stir ingredients well; cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce, sugar, chili flakes and salt; add the broth. Heat to a boil; reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.
3. Add the sweet potatoes and coconut milk; cook until the sweet potatoes are tender and the chicken is cooked, about 15 minutes. Remove the lemon grass; transfer the chicken and sauce to a serving bowl. Serve with dipping sauce on the side.
Lime-pepper-salt dipping sauce: Combine 2 tablespoons each salt and freshly ground pepper with the juice of 3 limes; stir until salt is dissolved.
Nutrition information per serving (without sauce):
338 calories, 48% of calories from fat, 18 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 67 mg cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 23 g protein, 903 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
Warm salad of beef with avocado-mango salsa
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 7 minutes
Yield: 2 main-course servings
With a “Prep School” story about making emulsions, freelance writer James P. DeWan offered this recipe for readers to apply the newly learned technique of making vinaigrette. The “warm salad” name comes from the Australian term for dishes featuring cooked meat on top of greens.
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1 rib-eye, New York strip or sirloin steak, about 8 ounces
1/8 teaspoon coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
Vinaigrette and greens:
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or other vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon honey
8 ounces mesclun mix or other fresh salad greens
Avocado-mango salsa:
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 each, peeled, cut into medium dice: avocado, mango
1/4 red onion, cut into small dice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced cilantro
1/2 teaspoon each: coarse salt, ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon each: freshly ground pepper, dried oregano
Juice of 1 lime, hot red pepper sauce
1. Season steak with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, saute or broil to medium-rare, about 3 1/2 minutes per side. Remove from heat; let rest 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, for the vinaigrette, whisk the vinegar, mustard and salt in a small bowl; whisk in a few drops of oil to form an emulsion. Continue whisking while adding remaining oil in a slow, steady stream; whisk in honey. Toss greens with vinaigrette.
3. Combine salsa ingredients in a medium bowl; set aside. Divide dressed greens among plates; mound salsa in center. Slice steak on the diagonal into thin strips; fan out across top of salsa.
Nutrition information per serving:
792 calories, 69% of calories from fat, 63 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 102 mg cholesterol, 37 g carbohydrates, 27 g protein, 1,165 mg sodium, g fiber
Orange-flavored dipping oil
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
A new gold rush has hit California: olive oil, as reported by Bill Daley in a February cover story. This recipe, he wrote, is a refreshing way to flavor olive oil for bread dipping, but the oranges can be eaten as well. It’s adapted from a recipe from Willow Creek Olive Ranch in Paso Robles, Calif., and calls for the ranch’s Pasolivo extra-virgin olive oil. The recipe also can be made with lemons or grapefruit. Tucking fresh basil leaves under the oranges adds color.
4 to 5 oranges, cut into 1/2-inch slices
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
Italian or French bread slices
Arrange orange slices on a large plate or platter; press with a fork to release some of the juice. Sprinkle with sugar; drizzle oil generously to cover the oranges. Season with pepper to taste. Serve as a dip for bread slices.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
258 calories, 93% of calories from fat, 27 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 5 g carbohydrates, 0.3 g protein, 1 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
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