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Chilean sea bass is returning to the seafood counter at local markets.

The fish, prized for its mild flavor and a moist texture that resists overcooking, was such a hit with chefs and home cooks in the 1990s that overfishing nearly wiped it out.

Concerns about sustainability led many restaurants and supermarkets to stop offering the fish, also known as Patagonian toothfish, several years ago.

Whole Foods Market is reintroducing Chilean sea bass from an Antarctic fishery certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council, a non-profit organization with a board of environmentalists, members of the fishing industry and retailers, including a Whole Foods vice president.

Whole Foods is the first retailer to stock the MSC-certified sea bass, which will sell for about $25 a pound.