One’s love of grilled foods is not necessarily proportional to one’s ability to actually grill the foods.
Fish, especially, inspires fear and loathing in wannabe grill jockeys because it’s so easy to overcook. When you’re dealing with cooking over high heat for a short period of time, the margin of error is slim.
Seafoods in general are more delicate than burgers, steaks, chicken, even some vegetables, which means you simply have to pay attention to them. Unless you’re grilling a whole fish or a side of salmon, you can’t set a fillet on the grill and forget it.
There are some keys to minimizing the anxiety of grilling fish, beginning with choosing the right cut and type.
Usually, the thinner the fish fillet, the harder it is to grill. It’s not impossible, but it takes more finesse. Sole, for example, is a delicious fish but it’s not ideal for grilling because the flesh is so thin and delicate.
Fillets with heft
Sturdier fish–halibut, salmon, cod, snapper, tuna or steelhead–have thicker fillets and steaks and they can withstand the fast heat and handling that come with grilling. Anything that’s more than a half-inch thick is ideal.
Also, fish with a high oil content are great for grilling because the fat helps keep the flesh moist. Salmon and cod are prime examples.
Heat the grill
Be sure that before you put the fish–or any food, for that matter–on the grill that it has been heated (20 minutes for a gas grill, ashed-over coals for a charcoal grill). If the grate isn’t heated, you won’t get a proper sear or the telltale grill marks. The grate also should be brushed with oil or coated with a non-stick spray. (If using a spray, which is flammable, do so before you light the fire.)
When the grate is heated and oiled, it will “release” the fish when it’s finished searing. So when you slide a spatula under the edge of the fish, if it slides easily, you can turn the fillet. If not, it means the fish is still searing and that you should wait just a little longer before trying to turn the fillet.
Test as you go
Most recipes will offer an estimated amount of time to cook the fish on each side. Consider that a guideline only, because the fish that you buy may or may not be comparable in size, thickness, even variety to what’s specified in the recipe.
Use your senses. Especially with a fillet, you will be able to see the fish turn opaque as it cooks. Unless you’re grilling tuna or salmon, which can be served medium-rare, when you see that the center of the cut has just turned opaque or is about to, remove the fish from the grill. Just like meats, fish will continue to “cook” even after you remove it from the heat source.
When you’re close, remove the fish from the grill to check for doneness, which you can do with the tip of a sharp paring knife. Often, people leave foods on the grill longer than they need to just in case. But it’s easier to put something back on the grill if it’s a touch underdone.
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Another popular grilled seafood is shrimp, which you really don’t want to overcook because they turn rubbery. The rule for shrimp is that as soon as the outside turns completely orange-pink, it’s done.
Shellfish such as clams and mussels are done when the shells open.
Plus, cooking fish outside prevents the house from smelling like low tide.
Grilled salmon with smashed cucumber-date salad
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from the cookbook, “Town/Country.”
Salad:
2 English cucumbers, peeled, cut into thin planks
6 Medjool dates, pitted, cut into slivers
1 cup finely sliced fennel, fronds reserved for garnish
1/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons each: minced chives, fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon medium-coarse sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
Salmon:
6 skin-on salmon fillets, about 6-7 ounces each
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1. For the salad, roll up the cucumber pieces in a clean kitchen towel; smash them by pressing down hard with the heels of your hands to release the juice. Transfer the cucumber to a cutting board; coarsely chop. Combine the cucumbers, dates, fennel, walnuts and chives in a salad bowl. Stir in the lemon juice and 1/4 cup of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss lightly; set aside.
2. For the salmon, prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Brush each piece of the fish lightly on both sides with extra-virgin olive oil; season with the salt and pepper.
3. Grill the salmon just until the flesh firms and grill marks appear, about 1 minute. Rotate each fillet one quarter-turn (90 degrees); grill just long enough to mark the fillets, completing a cross-hatch pattern, less than 1 minute. Turn the fillets; grill until done to your liking, about 3 1/2 minutes for medium-rare.
4. Arrange equal portions of the salad on each of six plates; top each salad with a piece of salmon. Drizzle a little olive oil on top of fish and garnish each plate with fennel fronds.
Nutrition information per serving:
558 calories, 55% of calories from fat, 34 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 107 mg cholesterol, 22 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein, 513 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
Char-grilled butterflied shrimp
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Marinating time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
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Adapted from “Barbecues & Grilling.”
16 jumbo raw shell-on shrimp
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 limes
2 large red chilies, seeded, finely chopped
1 piece (1 1/2 inch long) ginger root, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. Cut the shrimp along the back but not all the way through. Open shrimp like a book; press flat. Remove black vein. Arrange cut-side up on a baking sheet.
2. Combine garlic, lime zest and juice, chili, ginger, salt and pepper to taste; sprinkle over shrimp. Drizzle with the oil. Cover; marinate in the refrigerator 30 minutes.
3. Prepare a grill for high heat. Grill shrimp shell-side down until they turn pink, 2-3 minutes. Turn; grill 30 seconds. Serve hot.
Nutrition information per serving:
163 calories, 74% of calories from fat, 14 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 43 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 198 mg sodium, 1 g fiber