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A bad veggie burger is a bland, dry stand-in for its all-meat cousin. A good one can be better than a beef burger and leave you feeling virtuous. At Play tried three:

THE PLACE: Bandera

535 N. Michigan Ave.

312-644-3524

THE STATS: $11 at lunch; $12 at dinner

THE COMMENTS: The burger: An enormous grilled veggie patty topped with Monterey jack cheese on a soft roll with tomato slices, diced onion, shredded lettuce and pickle slices with fries on the side. The bite: While obviously made with good-for-you stuff and pretty to look at (the patty is a pink hue), this burger is just too mushy and way too bland.

THE PLACE: Bennigan’s

225 N. Michigan Ave.

312-938-9080

www.bennigans.com

THE STATS: $7.99

THE COMMENTS: The burger: One veggie burger with a slice of melted Cheddar on a roll with fries and a pickle spear on the side. The bite: Not a bad burger. Firm, with a good, natural flavor. But nothing you couldn’t recreate with a grill and a trip to the Whole Foods freezer section.

THE PLACE: 42 Degrees N. Latitude

4500 N. Lincoln Ave.

773-907-2226

THE STATS: $7.50

THE COMMENTS: The burger: A large firm veggie patty topped with bleu cheese on a large soft roll with fries, a pickle spear and a pot of coleslaw on the side. The bite: Simply delicious. This virtuous burger bursts with flavor thanks to the green onions, corn and peas sprinkled throughout. Its firm texture–beef burger-like, really–put it over the top.

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