Nothing quite welcomes back summer like strawberry shortcake. The classic version is most abundant, but some restaurants take the dessert to new dimensions. At Play sized up three:
THE PLACE: ACQUALINA, 4363 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-770-4363
THE STATS: Cookies. Yogurt. Balsamic-marinated berries.
1 3/4 inches high
$7
THE COMMENTS: The base: Two sugar-sprinkled butter cookies stand in for shortcake. The berries: Chopped small,very dark and nicely sweet. The sauces: Rings of strawberry sauce and vanilla yogurt encircle the cookies. The whipped cream: Zip. Just a dollop of vanilla yogurt and a tiny mint leaf. Our take: A little skimpy–and where’s the shortcake?
THE PLACE: THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY, 875 N. Michigan Ave., 312-337-1101
THE STATS: Shortcake. Vanilla ice cream. Berries. Whipped cream.
5 inches high
$6.95
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THE COMMENTS: The base: Firm hunk of classic, unsweetened shortcake sandwiches three scoops of ice cream and berries. The berries: Perfectly ripe, sliced and just sweet enough. The sauce: Natural juices with some added sugar pool on the plate. The whipped cream: Nicely piped 2-inch hat of sweet cream. Our take: Strawberries play second fiddle to the rest of ingredients. But tasty–and more than enough to share.
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THE PLACE: THE GRILLON THE ALLEY, 909 N. Michigan Ave., 312-255-9009
THE STATS: Shortcake. Berries. Whipped cream.
2 1/2 inches high
$6.50
THE COMMENTS: The base: Excellent, almost scone-like shortcake with tiniest bit of sweetness. Split to cradle cream, sauce and berries. The berries: Sliced large berries with a tiny bit of tartness. The sauce: Deep-red berry puree drizzled between layers and ringing the plate. The whipped cream: Fresh, silky and slightly sweet. Our take: Just about perfect, and sized for one. Who wants to share anyway?