Osso buco, which–appetizingly enough–means, “hollow bone,” is hearty, meat-nearly-melting-from-the-bone Tuscan fare occasionally found at relatively princely prices in some of the area’s Italian restaurants.
The classic preparation is built around slow-roasted veal (an expensive meat) shank (which yields the hollow bone of its name). Traditionally, osso buco is accompanied by a risotto and gremolata, a minced garnish of parsley, garlic and lemon rind (this sentence as published has been corrected in this text).
La Bella Winnetka (505 Chestnut, Winnetka; 847-441-6002) offers up its osso buco in a dramatic dining room–tented ceiling, hundreds of white mini-lights and dark walls. (In summer, there’s a charming, 160-seat outdoor garden.)
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The music coming from the speakers around the room hits the classics, from Luciano to Dean-o.
La Bella’s osso buco ($21) is covered in a mince of carrots, onions and celery and is accompanied by risotto alla milanese, a saffron risotto.
At Merlo Ristorante (2638 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-529-0747), the osso buco ($28) drove away the chill of a cold rain falling outdoors. On this menu, it’s called osso buco di vitello con risotto alla zafferono, a tasty mouthful of a term meaning “hollow bone of veal with saffron risotto.”
The best mouthful was the fork-tender veal that had been slow cooked in cognac, thyme and white wine. Didn’t notice a gemolata here, but the sauce was so tasty that, if it wasn’t there, it wasn’t missed.
At neither place did an esattore appear. That’s a long, skinny spoon designed to scoop out the succulent, though not so healthy, marrow. At home, the dog enjoyed the leftover bones without an esattore.
If eating veal is a problem for you, Carlucci’s in Rosemont (614 N. River Rd., Rosemont; 847-441-6002) offers alternatives. In addition to a veal version at $26.95, the restaurant has a suckling lamb osso buco at $25.95 and a pork version at $22.95. All come with the milanese risotto.
Osso buco
What it is: Slow-roasted veal dish
Where it’s from: Tuscany
Price: $21-$28
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