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Every season, women, hungry for the inside scoop on the new “IT” face, tape E! beauty segments, tear pages from upscale fashion magazines and descend upon retail counters for of-the-moment tips.

So, when Paul Starr–Estee Lauder’s makeup artist to red-carpet royalty such as Jennifer Garner and Renee Zellweger–blew into town last week for Marshall Field’s fashion week, I could not wait to document his take on the fall face.

“Fall is all about contemporary variations on the classic, polished face,” Starr says. “I believe in accenting beautiful skin with minimal coverage and playing up a woman’s best features. It’s about maximizing individuality.”

Lauder’s key fall colors? Plum, pink and the perfect neutral browns.

Makeup bag

Estee Lauder products you’ll need to pull off these looks:

– Electric Lip Creme, $22

– Lash XL, $21

– So Ingenious, $32.50

– Ideal Matte, $32.50

– Pure Color Eyeshadow Duo, $30

– Spotlight, $32

– Pure Color Liquid Eyeliner, $22.50

– Automatic Brow Pencil Duo, $23

– Pure Color EyeLiner, $22.50

The clean queen

For a great day look, it’s all about a fresh, subtle look in which all features are balanced.

Face

Balance the skin tone with So Ingenius multidimensional foundation in Auburn. Bronzer is a must–even in the fall. Brush on Amber bronzing powder where the sun would naturally hit the face. Instead of brushing blush on the length of the cheekbone, get a fresh-faced flush by applying blush right on the apple of the cheek.

Eyes

With the Pure Color Duo in moondance, use the lighter color from lid to lash and the brown in the crease. Along the lash line, use Brown Writer liner. Smudge the liner. Shade brows with the Automatic Brow Pencil Duo. Use Illusionist mascara in brown to correspond with color palette.

Lips

Layer Sugar Honey lipstick and Electric Intense lipcreme. Says Starr, “Don’t be afraid to mix and match glosses and lipsticks until you get the right shade.”

Femme fatale

To amp it up for a night out on the town, think Brigitte Bardot. Says Starr, “Play up the eyes with plum shadows and dramatic liquid liner. Remember to take your time with mascara and make every lash count!”

Face

Balance the skin tone with So Ingenius multidimensional foundation in Golden Caramel. Mix Spotlight Skintone Perfector (to illuminate skin) with BerryLight cheek color to the apple of the cheeks.

Eyes

Start with a generous (thick!) application of Plum Writer liner extended slightly beyond the eye. Color entire lid from crease down with Violet Ice shadow. Blend the color into a dome and brush some Raspberry Pop eye color on the inner lid to pop the plum color. Then create a third dimension with Plum Cassis Liquid Liner. Apply Lash Xl Maximum Length Mascara vertically on top. Also apply to bottom lashes. Add line of Raspberry Pop shadow to bottom lash line. Groom brows with Soft Blonde pencil. For added polish, brush on smoothing creme concealer under eyes.

Lips

Keep lip color in the plum family with Fatale lipstick and Watermelon gloss.

Demure diva

She’s sophisticated yet sexy, a la Marilyn Monroe. With her clean look and power lip, anything could happen.

Face

Spotlight Skintone Perfector with cheek color in Berrylight applied with a foundation brush on the apples of the cheeks.

Eyes

Groom brows with pencil in Soft Auburn. Extend lashes with Illusionist Curling Mascara in brown.

Lips

For a full red lip, Starr insists on precision. Outline lips with Electric Intense Lipcreme in Fury. Then apply Red Attitude lipstick.

– To take this look into evening, apply Pure Color black liquid eyeliner to upper lash line and coat lashes with black mascara.

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Edited by Cara DiPasquale ([email protected]) and Kris Karnopp ([email protected])