Michel Laroche made his reputation as a talented winemaker and adroit merchant in Chablis, the northernmost vineyard area in France. Whether the motivation was a warmer climate or the opportunity to make moderately priced varietal wines in the sunny and under-exploited Laguedoc-Rousillon region, he constructed a winery in the mid-1990s and launched a line of wines called Michel Laroche South of France. It includes syrah, merlot and chardonnay, each with a price of $10. The chardonnay carries a Vin de Pays d’Oc appellation and a tangy acidity that offsets the ripe fruit aromas and flavors, apricot among them. It will fit nicely with shellfish, fin fish or chicken served with butter or cream sauces. For informal dining, consider it as an accompaniment to cold ham, a crab cake or a toasted cheese sandwich.
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