Because selecting fresh caviar is a matter of personal preference, it’s best to shop for it where you can taste before purchasing. These salted eggs (also known as roe) from sturgeon are classified by the type of sturgeon from which they are gathered. Prices correlate to egg size, a factor determined by the age of the salmon when the roe is harvested.
Beluga, the most expensive of the three (around $89 an ounce for Iranian), has the largest eggs and is often described as having the mildest flavor. Osetra sturgeon produce medium-sized eggs, described as having a nutty flavor. And sevruga, with the smallest eggs, is sometimes described as tasting more briny.
Sampling American eggs harvested from paddlefish was a pleasant surprise at a recent impromptu tasting. Although this caviar doesn’t stack up to the other three, at $29.95 for two ounces (about 1/4 cup), it makes a respectable choice for recipes or garnishes.