Selecting a book about cooking for a loved one or friend is not to be done without caution or conviction.
So many titles and so few books truly satisfy, motivate or inspire that you may select one that belies the spirit in which you are giving it.
To choose well, you should be aware of the potential recipient’s sensibilities and, if the book is “recipe driven,” her or his culinary skill level or, lacking skills, degree of culinary curiosity.
Good Eating staff members have solved the problem in their own gift-giving through the years. Many of their choices are older works that have withstood the test of providing sustenance for mind and body. A few are more recent, reflecting current trends in food with collections of exciting recipes.
Here and on the centerspread are some of our favorite cookbooks, plus a list of new titles worth noting.
— William Rice
The Best Recipe
by the editors of Cooks Illustrated
Boston Common Press, $29.95
You have to salute the folks at Cooks Illustrated magazine. Repeated testing in their kitchens determines the best preparation techniques or ingredients, resulting in recipes that work well every time. They gathered some of those recipes into this book in 1999 and I’ve been using it ever since. While it may be foolhardy to label any recipe “the best,” they have come darn close with their recipes for fettuccine with Bolognese sauce, cream cheese brownies and beef stew–just a few of my favorites. If anyone on your list enjoys reading about the science of cooking, this book will be the “best” gift.
— Carol Mighton Haddix
Beyond Gumbo
by Jessica Harris
Simon & Schuster, $27
Expect fascinating reading from a distinguished scholar who is also passionate about food. That’s just what you get when Jessica Harris, a college professor and prolific cookbook author, offers a fresh and logical definition of Creole cuisine. According to Harris, the Gulf Coast dishes we label Creole are just the tip of the okra. She describes the cuisine as “Africa and Europe meeting in the Americas,” and makes her point with recipes from the Caribbean, Mexico and South America. I plan to give this book to friends fond of saying “Bam, kick things up a notch.”
— Donna Pierce
The Savory Way
by Deborah Madison
Broadway Books, softcover, $20
This cookbook, from the founding chef of San Francisco’s acclaimed vegetarian restaurant Greens, offers simple preparations and fresh, appealing ingredients. Some of the book’s terrific recipes include a rich cheese bread; capellini with lemon and basil; and Savoy cabbage braised with brown butter and Taleggio cheese. Apricot upside-down cake is a beloved summer dessert and the almond cake can be a potluck staple. Madison’s “Way” is fine indeed.
— Kristin Eddy
The Herbfarm Cookbook
by Jerry Traunfeld
Simon & Schuster, $40
Cooks who garden and gardeners who cook–and anybody interested in discovering the culinary and aesthetic pleasures of herbs–will never let this book leave their kitchen. Traunfeld, executive chef of the renowned Herbfarm restaurant in Washington, covers a range of dishes that will accommodate all skill levels–from a simple marjoram corn bread to a delectable halibut baked with leeks and lovage (the name of the state as published has been corrected in this text). The growing, harvesting and cooking tips for myriad herbs are just as informed. Traunfeld is an accessible and enthusiastic writer, and his passion for cooking and gardening is contagious.
— Renee Enna
Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine
by Norma Jean and Carole Darden
Doubleday, $18.95
First published a quarter of a century ago, this book offers a glimpse into a distinguished family’s history by way of recipes, historical anecdotes and photographs. Launched during a time when African-Americans were especially underserved by cookbook publishers, the book provided both authentic recipes and an emotional boost to many people hungry to see themselves reflected in cookbooks. Rereading it always makes me grateful for the Darden sisters’ perseverance. I give these books to my nieces and nephews for direction and inspiration, inside and outside the kitchen.
— Donna Pierce
Coyote Cafe
by Mark Miller
Ten Speed Press, $19.95
Inspired by the cuisine of Mark Miller’s restaurant of the same name in Santa Fe, this book helped elevate the image of Southwestern cooking when published in 1989. If you have a home cook on your list looking to expand beyond fajitas, that person will love the salsas, tamales and main dishes here. Miller encourages the use of the right ingredients–from the herb epazote to dried chilies–to get the proper flavors. A favorite might be the Sonora salad, with a complex melding of anise and citrus flavors, crisp textures and slight heat.
— Joe Gray
Joy of Cooking
by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker
Scribner, $35
It was a wedding gift, but I was already familiar with the white cookbook with the bright red “Joy” on the cover. My mother had used “Joy of Cooking” for years. But I didn’t really delve into its wonders until I had to start cooking for my own family. Then, its basic recipes for all-American dishes came in very handy. Irma and her daughter, Marion (I think of them as friends), led me, one potful at a time, through a culinary learning curve. Eventually I graduated to their intriguing international dishes. When food became a career, it was the “Joy” that I turned to over and over for the “whys” of cooking as well as the “hows.” In 1997 a new edition was compiled, with chapters contributed by food experts across the country. Although it doesn’t have the “voice” of the original authors, it still is a fine reference. Today, I give “Joy” as a gift to nieces and nephews, knowing it will guide them well in their own learning curves.
— Carol Mighton Haddix
Simple French Food
Atheneum, softcover, $15.95
Richard Olney, an American artist who had lived in France since the 1950s, took a singular approach to the nation’s cuisine. His “Simple French Food” is a bouquet to the artisanal food of the French provinces, especially Provence, delivered in rich and — on occasion — rococo prose. Olney devotes a chapter to “starchy preparations” and presents a wonderful assembly of gratins. Pork he cooks, literally, from head to tail. In summation, this is a book for the person who will cook from scratch, even when dining alone.
— William Rice
Desperation Dinners!
by Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross
Workman, softcover, $13.95
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We all know takeout mavens who keep saying they want to cook but don’t have the time. (Sometimes they’re as close as the mirror.) Compelling evidence to the contrary can be found in “Desperation Dinners,” one of the finer examples of fast-but-with-integrity cookbooks. Its friendly tone, goof-proof recipes and practical approaches to getting appetizing and nutritious meals on the table (in 20 minutes, no less, and without resorting to preservative-laden products) can’t be beat. No time, you say? What are you waiting for?
— Renee Enna
Great Cakes
by Carole Walter
Clarkson Potter, $10
Cookbooks that focus on dessert aren’t exactly a novelty, but Walter’s take on cake is a tutorial in the best sense of the word. She is a cooking teacher, for one, and proof is in the pudd–er, cake. The instructions are so concise that every recipe here is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (The glazed almond butter cake is just one example.) And en route to making the many types and styles of cakes, you’ll also discover that Walter is teaching you to become a better baker.
— Renee Enna
Giuliano Bugialli’s Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking
Simon & Schuster, softcover, $22
Although our parents had taught my siblings and me the basics of cooking, this book was a welcome gift from my mother, an Italian native, after I graduated from college nearly 20 years ago. Giuliano Bugialli, one of the best-known cookbook authors of Italy, strives for authenticity in recipes and methods. The strength is in his detailed instructions on technique: how to cut up a whole chicken, how to tie a homemade sausage, how to make fresh pasta. He even describes making homemade ricotta, wine vinegar and mascarpone, then gives you recipes to use them. Each recipe includes a history of that dish, many traced back to the Medici court. This book is for the beginner or the experienced cook who wants to learn more about Italian cuisine.
— Joe Gray
The Best American Recipes, 2003-2004
Houghton Mifflin, $26
Basic cookbooks are as proverbial as that little black dress. But sometimes you just wanna have fun.
Do it with this series of annual cookbooks, compiled by Fran McCullough and Molly Stevens, who search the nation’s magazines, newspapers, cookbooks and Web sites for good recipes, then test them to find the best. Many of the recipes call for the latest, trendiest ingredients or techniques, but they also can be quite simple. Pick from crabby cheese puffs, quick, soft sexy grits, grilled shrimp with prosciutto, rosemary and garlic, or pumpkin creme brulee tart.
Give this book to any good cook who is looking for the newest, latest recipes and the stories behind them.
— Carol Mighton Haddix
The Fannie Farmer Cookbook, 13th edition
by Marion Cunningham
Knopf, $30
There’s nothing trendy or provocative about this kitchen reference. The same can be said about most weekday family cooking demands. I was a busy soccer/basketball/baseball mom when Cunningham’s collection of reliable recipes helped make me a star with room-mother treats, halftime snacks, post-sleepover waffles and the dishes my son requested, made without a lot of “weird stuff.” The recipes had integrity; they served my family well. And Cunningham’s straightforward approach still comes in handy in the test kitchen, where her basic muffins are a favorite. Give this book to families just rolling into the carpool years.
— Donna Pierce
The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean
by Paula Wolfert
HarperCollins, $40
Many people know Paula Wolfert for her well-received cookbooks on countries of the Mediterranean. This book goes a little farther afield, with the kind of recipes that translate pretty much everywhere: manti, the little pasta purses filled with ground lamb and bathed in yogurt sauce, or bulgur and lentil pilaf strewn with caramelized onions. Meat dishes range from the more time-consuming kibbeh, or ground lamb, patties stuffed with mixed nuts and sumac, to simple broiled chicken with a lemon and yogurt marinade. Good food like this is welcome across any border.
— Kristin Eddy
Classic Chinese Cuisine
by Nina Simonds
Houghton Mifflin, softcover, $21
When the first edition of this book appeared more than 20 years ago, there certainly were fewer Chinese cookbooks than can now be found on bookstore shelves. Still, Nina Simonds’ work in this field remains a classic for its simplicity, helpful direction and explanation and the way it easily guides newcomers into this wonderful cuisine.
In the sense of this book, “classic” covers the most familiar recipes, such as stir-fried beef with scallions, but also offers wonderful pan-fried noodles with beef and broccoli; spicy egg omelet with pork; and “hundred corner” shrimp balls of deep-fried minced shrimp.
— Kristin Eddy
Marcella’s Italian Kitchen
by Marcella Hazan
Knopf, $22.95
In a passionate, opinionated manner, Marcella Hazan sets forth the rules of Italian cooking by concentrating on getting the tastes right. A strict teacher, she steers the cook to her way: Use no Parmesan except Parmigiano-Reggiano, don’t buy already grated cheese (it will dry out), dress salads with no oil but olive oil (you weren’t going to use bottled dressing, right?). From this base, she takes the cook on a journey through ingredients, cooking methods and then the courses of an Italian meal. The recipient of this book could be anyone with a grounding in Italian cooking who wants to learn more; he or she will blossom under Hazan’s stern eye.
— Joe Gray
James Beard’s American Cookery
Little Brown, softcover, $24.95
Published in 1972, the same year nouvelle cuisine was launched in France, this affectionate 900-page tome for home cooks served as an effective counterpoint to the French chefs’ chic and stylized creations. These days Beard is relevant still, chatting about ingredients and providing recipes from our nation’s history that are never fussy or pretentious. In keeping with the American tradition, much of the food is best served for family meals or informal entertaining.
— William Rice
Maida Heatter’s Cakes,
Maida Heatter’s Cookies,
Maida Heatter’s Pies & Tarts
Cader Books, $19.95 each
I recommend Maida Heatter to cooks who, like myself, are not passionate bakers. It’s because of an uncanny talent she possesses. Time and again, as I reach a point in executing one of her recipes where I’m unsure of my next step, I look back at the recipe and find a direction or a tip that answers my question. As a result of this thoroughness, the recipes are long and somewhat intimidating at first glance. Worry not. It’s merely Heatter being motherly. The 1997 repackaging of her earlier works into the three handsome and easy-to-use volumes cited above makes gift-giving easy.
— William Rice
And a few new books of note
It seems a bumper year for cookbooks, judging by the number of them arriving daily in the Good Eating office. Sorting through the stacks, we think these recent books are worth a look. Check them out at your local bookstore or on Web sites such as amazon.com and barnesandnoble.com.
— Carol Mighton Haddix
Basic and general
Cooking for Comfort by Marian Burros (Simon & Schuster, $24). From sloppy Joes to pineapple upside-down cake, these recipes will soothe the family.
The Cook’s Canon: 101 Classic Recipes Everyone Should Know by Raymond Sokolov (HarperCollins, $25.95). The stories behind the recipes are as fascinating as the finished dishes, from apple pie to shepherd’s pie.
How to Cook Everything: The Basics by Mark Bittman (Wiley, $20). ‘Nuf said.
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It’s All American Food by David Rosengarten (Little, Brown, $29.95). A collection of 400 recipes, this book details what Americans eat today, from the regional specialties and classic American comfort dishes to ethnic-influenced foods.
Books by chefs
Jamie’s Kitchen by Jamie Oliver (Hyperion, $39.95). The popular English chef combines cooking lessons for all levels with a full complement of his signature dishes.
Flavor by Rocco Dispirito (Hyperion, $35). The chef-turned-TV star offers riffs on sweet, salty, sour and bitter ingredients and how to combine them in fusionlike dishes.
Tom’s Big Dinners by Tom Douglas (Morrow, $32.50). A Seattle chef gets creative with hearty menus for family and friends.
East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube by David Bouley, Mario Lohninger and Melissa Clark (Ecco, $34.95). A region of Europe gets deserved attention in these updated recipes for the adventuresome cook.
Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine by Marcus Samuelsson (Houghton Mifflin, $45). For ambitious cooks who love to mix it up, this chef’s food combines Scandinavian, Asian, Indian and French ingredients and techniques.
Baking and dessert books
Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Breads (Simon & Schuster, $35). This classic has been updated and expanded with 300 recipes for the novice and expert.
Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate by Alice Medrich (Artisan, $35). Stories and 150 recipes for using today’s chocolates from the Berkeley, Calif., chocolatier.
The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum (Norton, $35). Searching for the perfect loaf of homemade bread? This is your guide.
Home Baking: The Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid (Artisan, $40). Two hundred recipes include pastries, breads and cakes, illustrated beautifully with color photography.
The Secrets of Baking by Sherry Yard (Houghton Mifflin, $35.95). The whys of baking are explained with master recipes and their variations.
A Passion for Desserts by Emily Luchetti (Chronicle, $35). How to make delicious desserts, from espresso cupcakes to lemon-raspberry bread pudding.
Williams-Sonoma Essentials of Baking (Oxmoor House, $34.95). Approachable recipes helped by excellent step-by-step photos.
Around the world
Better Homes and Gardens America’s Ethnic Cuisines (Meredith, $29.95). A good source for amateur cooks.
From Curries to Kebabs: Recipes from the Indian Spice Trail by Madhur Jaffrey (Clarkson Potter, $35). For cooks ready to expand their repertoire, this book leads a journey to lands and recipes influenced by Indian cuisine.
From My Mexican Kitchen by Diana Kennedy (Clarkson Potter, $40). The doyenne of Mexican cooking returns with another great resource, focusing on ingredients.
The Jewish Kitchen by Clarissa Hyman (Interlink, $29.95) The story of nine Jewish families in different locations and their recipes, including Venetian pumpkin risotto, Curacao chicken soup and linzer torte.
Little Foods of the Mediterranean by Clifford A. Wright (Harvard Common Press, softcover, $21.95). More than 500 small tapas-like dishes from Spain, Greece, Italy, Turkey and France.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert (Wiley, $34.95). For cooks who don’t mind taking some time for a dish, this is an exciting culinary tour of the region.
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If you cannot find one of these books at your local book store, we found all of them online –some new, some used–at amazon.com.