That sign was on a display of wooden ducks’ heads at Havre de Grace Decoy Museum, a light and beautiful waterfront building dedicated to the art and history of decoys.
The museum alone would make a trip to Havre de Grace worth the 35-mile drive from Baltimore. But this city also has several other interesting museums, as well as a beautiful riverfront and a historic downtown loaded with Victorian architecture, antiques shops and nice restaurants.
Havre de Grace, which sits where the Susquehanna River meets the Chesapeake Bay, was founded in 1782 and incorporated as a city in 1785. The city almost became the nation’s capital, losing out to Washington by only one vote. That’s why many of the streets have names like Congress, Revolution and Washington.
The weekend coming up is sure to be a busy one. The city’s 21st annual Decoy and Wildlife Festival runs Saturday through Monday, an extravaganza of carving competitions, art for sale and demonstrations. And over at the Susquehanna Museum, re-enactments of the 1813 attack on Havre de Grace will be staged Sunday and Monday.
During the War of 1812, the British burned most of the buildings, despite the efforts of one Lt. John O’Neill, who defended Havre de Grace while its citizens fled in panic.
A good place to begin a tour of Havre de Grace is with the half-mile boardwalk along the bay, which connects the Millard E. Tydings Memorial Park to the Decoy Museum, Maritime Museum and Concord Point Lighthouse. The park has a nice playground with swings and slides where children can stretch their legs after the car ride, while adults can sit at the benches or picnic tables and look out over the water.
After visiting the museums along the promenade, consider strolling to the historic downtown for lunch and a little shopping. The historic district is bound roughly by Congress Avenue to the south, St. John Street to the east and Union Avenue to the west.
Don’t forget to save time for the Susquehanna and Steppingstone museums, which explore different aspects of the city’s heritage. This weekend’s activities are something of a kickoff for the city’s high season. Many of the museums are open only from May through October.
Museums
Havre de Grace Decoy Museum (215 Giles St., 410-939-3739): More than 1,200 duck decoys are on display at this unusual museum, which also boasts realistic-looking figurines of renowned carvers, as well as an indoor boardwalk that takes visitors on a tour through duck-decoy history. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., $4 for adults, $2 for seniors and children, children 8 and under are free.
Havre de Grace Maritime Museum (100 Lafayette St., 410-939-4800): This waterside museum houses the Chesapeake Wooden Boat Builders School and the Susquehanna Flats Environmental Festival. Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, from noon to 5 p.m. Tuesdays from 6:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. to observe the boating school. $1 for adults, children 8 and under are free.
Concord Point Lighthouse (Concord and Lafayette streets, 410-939-9040): This lighthouse, built in 1827, is the oldest continuously operating lighthouse in Maryland. Visitors can climb to the top for a sweeping view of the bay from April through October, on weekends from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. There is no admission charge.
Susquehanna Museum of Havre de Grace (Erie and Conesto streets, 410-939-5780): The restored lockhouse once guided boats through the southern terminal of the Susquehanna River and the Tidewater Canal. The building, which served as a home for the lock tender, is furnished as it would have been in the mid-1800s. Open May through October, weekends, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., $2 for adults, $1 for seniors.
Steppingstone Museum (461 Quaker Bottom Road, 410-939-2299): Once a working farm, this museum just outside the city limits now demonstrates the rural arts and crafts of 1880 through 1920. Open May through October, weekends, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., $2 for adults, children 12 and under are free.
Skipjack Martha Lewis (121 N. Union Ave., 410-939-4078, www.skipjackmarthalewis.org): Public cruises on this 32-passenger sailboat are offered on weekends through October at 1:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. starting Saturday, and Thursdays at the same times beginning June 19. Reservations are recommended. $10 for adults, $5 for children 5 to 10 years old, free for children younger than 5.
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Shopping
Stroll through the historic downtown and check out the many antiques shops and other stores. For antiques, some names to look for are Yesterday’s Treasures (456 Franklin St., 410-939-8388), Andy and Bill’s Collectibles (324 N. Union Ave., 410-939-0656), George’s Place (454 Franklin St., 410-939-6398) and Old Line Antiques and Collectibles (408 N. Union Ave., 410-939-2747).
Goll’s Bakery (234 N. Washington St.) has cookies and brownies to satisfy your sweet tooth, and Bomboy’s (329 Market St., 410-939-2924) sells fudge and other homemade candy. Waiting for the Tide (211 N. Washington St., 410-939-5700) is a new women’s clothing and accessory store selling pottery, quilts and hand knits.
In a quaint brick courtyard on St. John Street, Christmas Magic (311 St. John St., 410-939-8782) sells ornaments and collectibles, while the Courtyard Bookshop (313 St. John St., 410-939-5140) sells used and out-of-print books. The Bank of Memories (319 St. John St., 410-939-4343) has upscale gifts and jewelry.
Where to eat
Coakley’s Pub (406 St. John St., 410-939-8888): This casual restaurant and bar offers sandwiches, steaks, crab cakes and wings. A nonsmoking room is situated away from the bar, and a children’s menu is available. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
MacGregor’s Restaurant and Tavern (331 St. John St., 410-939-3003): Every table has a view of the water at this large and attractive restaurant that serves lots of crab dishes and seafood. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch.
Tidewater Grille (300 Foot of Franklin, 410-939-3313): This upscale restaurant has views of the Chesapeake from both its dining room and deck. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Crazy Swede Restaurant (400 N. Union Ave., 410-939-5440): Homemade soups and sandwiches are on tap for lunch, while steak, seafood, fish and pasta are offered for dinner. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch.
Getting there
Havre de Grace is about 35 miles north of Baltimore, off I-95 in Harford County. Take Exit 89 and follow the signs for Historic Havre de Grace.
More information
Contact the Havre de Grace Tourism Commission at 410-939-2100 or www.hdgtourism.com or the Harford County Tourism Council at 410-272-2325 or www.harfordmd.com. Or stop by the Havre de Grace tourism office at 450 Pennington Ave., a half-block off Washington Street.