(two forks)
1255 N. Rand Rd.
Arlington Heights
847-253-0319
Hours: 11:30 a.m. –9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Under a bright red awning at Prospect Crossing Shopping Center, this modern, no-frills restaurant is large (about 100 seats), cafeteria-bright and spotlessly clean. Why the name? The manager pats his stomach when he answers: “The name describes how our food tastes.” Later, a Google search reveals that dozens of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. include the playful adjective in their names.
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On the plate
Order from one of two menus depending upon your spirit of adventure. A menu labeled “standard” unscrolls to mostly Americanized Chinese standards including chop suey. A laminated menu lists the restaurant’s more adventurous fare. If you have a taste for Southern chitterlings, or even French andouillette sausages, you may want to order pig intestines with a Chinese riff. Even the next day, reheated from a takeout box, they got the thumbs-up from chitterlings enthusiasts.
Second helpings
Crispy, bronzed barbecued pigeons (if it makes it easier, think barbecued squab) arrived crisp and deliciously spiced. Because they’re so tiny, they leave a diner wanting more. Sweet pea shoots, a cold-weather specialty, arrived at our table sprinkled with potent garlic; they taste like a tender hybrid of baby spinach and young turnip greens. The selection of steamed whole fish varies depending on availability. But you can count on their freshness, thanks to the chef’s reverse commute from Chicago’s Chinatown. From the “standard” menu, should you be tempted, won ton soup, moo shu pork and hung siu chicken (fried chicken in a sweet sauce) are tasty.
Take a pass
Although shrimp and scallops arrived steamed to a glossy perfection as part of a mixed seafood dish cooked with yellow Chinese chives, the squid on the platter were rubbery.
Take a pass
The manager, fluent in English, was very helpful explaining menu particulars during an early visit. Service was excellent and friendly on a second visit (for Sunday lunch) as well. But in the manager’s absence, no staff member was able to translate Chinese names of available fish.
Thirst quenchers
Drinks include hot tea, sodas, and a short domestic wine list. The beverage list also includes plum wine from Japan, Tsing Tao beer and tropical drinks and cocktails.
Extras
Many dishes can be had as half-orders. Whole fish is often available on weekends.
Price range
Appetizers, $2.95-$6.50; soups, $4.50-$4.95; vegetables, $7.95-$8.95; entrees, $8.95-$24.95 (for Peking duck, which serves two.)
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good