Cassoulet is such a labor-intensive affair that I can’t imagine anyone voluntarily spending the required hours (even days) at the stove to make it–unless, of course, their house is as drafty as mine and they are doing it for survival reasons.
Fortunately, Chicago offers several options for this classic French dish in which fragrant meats nestle in a bed of tender white beans, melding flavors as they slow cook in a hot crock. Meat selections vary but nearly always feature a flavorful leg of duck confit cooked in its own fat or, if you are lucky, in goose fat.
At Brasserie Jo (59 W. Hubbard St.; 312-595-0800), cassoulet is a Thursday special and features duck confit, bacon and garlic sausage served in a deep crock. Sadly, on the evening we ordered it, our server forgot to put in our order (and apologized and made amends) but probably ended up rushing the kitchen when he realized the error. Consequently, what arrived at our table tasted like a half-cooked cassoulet. The beans were still super firm and the flavors did not have a chance to mingle properly. The next day at home, however, with more cooking and a splash of red wine, the dish improved immensely.
At the always charming and crowded Le Bouchon (1958 N. Damen Ave.; 773-862-6600), cassoulet is almost always on the menu for a reasonable $14.75. The Bucktown bistro fills this beany casserole with a terrific duck confit, duck sausage, bacon and ham in a satisfying portion served in a shallow, round crock. Still, it didn’t have the kind of robust flavor we were longing for on a cold winter night.
Undeterred, we headed out a few days later to Arlington Heights for lunch at Le Titi de Paris (1015 W. Dundee Rd., Arlington Heights; 847-506-0222). There, the dish is served as a special for a couple of weeks a month during January, February and March. At lunch it costs $23 and at dinner it goes up to $28.50. Even at almost twice the price of a city cassoulet, this stick-to-your-ribs creation is worth it. The dish arrives in a shiny copper pot displayed at your table by the waiter. Once you give him the nod, he assembles the luxurious creation on a large plate and presents it along with a guide to the meats. I had smoked ham, goose, lamb, duck confit, pheasant sausage and a rich slice of garlic sausage. We were pleased to taste that the beans were not only given the time to soak up the flavors of the meats but were seasoned enough to hold their own.
Le Titi, which offers lunch service on Thursdays and Fridays only, will serve cassoulet Feb. 4 to 7, 11 to 13 and March 4 to 7 and 11 to 13. Cassoulet lovers should make their reservations now.
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Cassoulet
What is it: Slow cooked white beans with various meats.
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Where’s it from: France
Price: $14.75-$28.50
Thanks in French: Merci