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For years, it seemed like everybody, from government officials to Oprah, had a beef with beef.

And for years, the nation’s beef associations spent millions of dollars in marketing and advertising–not to mention lawsuits–trying to reverse that position by talking about nutrition and convenience.

Now, though, beef is back, says the association representing beef producers. And for the first time in years, beef producers are backing advertising that again celebrates meat as a food people are passionate about.

In a campaign that breaks Monday, the National Cattleman’s Beef Association seeks to celebrate beef as the king of all meals with a new, humorous $13 million print and television campaign that makes that big slab of steak the star again.

“Consumers have a passion for this product and our strategy with our TV and radio campaign is to fuel that consumer passion for beef,” said Mark Thomas, vice president of consumer marketing for the Denver-based NCBA.

A new TV spot from Chicago-based Leo Burnett takes a new twist of the classic “Rodeo” music track by Aaron Copland in portraying the anticipation of grilling a steak in the backyard. The spot, which will run on network, cable and syndication, opens with the backyard griller looking at his steak when suddenly Copland’s classic song starts. Suddenly, he holds his hand up to signal that the steak isn’t done, and the scene cuts to an orchestra sitting in his backyard, cutting off the song. The griller waits, looks again at the steak, and finally signals the orchestra to resume.

The television and radio advertising again features the voice of actor Sam Elliott delivering the trademark, “Beef. It’s What’s for Dinner.”

Print ads play heavy on short, humorous headlines. One shows a sliced roast with the headline: “All of a sudden, a $2,000 grill seems reasonable.” Another shows a steak done to perfection with the line: “Why space aliens steal our cows.”

The ads will run in everything from Esquire and Sports Illustrated to InStyle and Better Homes & Gardens.

The humor take comes as Burnett and the NCBA say it’s now OK to not feel bad about liking beef. Beef consumption has been on the rise for the past couple of years. Previous advertising efforts have focused on either the convenience aspects of making meals with beef, or a nutrition message.

“To me, that campaign didn’t get to that wonderful, unapologetic carnivore within,” said Jonathan Hoffman, executive creative director at Burnett. “It’s the king of all foods. It was really important to get to the core appeal that sets beef apart from other meat.”

The new campaign comes as per capita beef consumption fell slightly in 2001 and 2000 after a surge in the late 1990s. However, the amount people spend on beef is on the rise. The campaign will run through Feb. 9, and again later in the year.

Changes at NSA: At Newspaper Services of America, former Sears, Roebuck and Co. executive Bob Shamberg was promoted to president and chief operating officer, reporting to Chairman and CEO Scott Harding. Shamberg had been head of the firm’s Alliance Media division. Dave Walker, formerly vice president of marketing and advertising at Toys “R” Us, joined NSA as president, strategic print marketing.

The moves come as NSA, one of the biggest newspaper media buyers in the country, picked up responsibilities for two major retailers: Irving, Texas-based Michaels The Arts and Crafts Store; and Columbus, Ohio-based Value City Department Stores.

New McD post: New McDonald’s Corp. Chairman and CEO Jim Cantalupo wasted little time adding to his management team as he focuses on trying to fix the company’s main restaurant operations. On Thursday Cantalupo named Mats Lederhausen to the new post of president of McDonald’s business development group reporting to Jim Skinner, vice chairman. Lederhausen will oversee worldwide menu management, restaurant development, and R&D restaurant concepts. He will also oversee the Partner Brands and other initiatives. Lederhausen was executive vice president, strategy and business development.

LB Works lands assignment: Miller Heiman, which develops sales training sessions for corporations, hired LB Works to develop marketing communications programs, including direct marketing, and advertising.