5721 N. Clark St.
(1 fork)
773-506-2233
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Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs;
11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri.-Sun.
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Arkadash looks like a banquet hall waiting for the banquet. Two large dining rooms are lined with plenty of tables for parties of four to six but only a few for two. All are set with white cloths and fan-shape napkins stuck in glasses, yearning for someone to use them. Mirrored walls and a smattering of Turkish decoration don’t do much to lessen the hall image. The center of the room is open, also waiting, for musicians to arrive or a belly dancer to perform on Wednesdays or weekend evenings. In the meantime, Middle Eastern music plays from speakers.
On the plate
The menu advertises Turkish and Mediterranean food. Kebabs are a specialty with 12 varieties, many of them lamb-based. Plentiful portions of hot and cold appetizers, salads, seafood, vegetarian dishes and desserts complete the large menu. A few items, such as lamb chops and grilled red snapper, are above Cheap Eats price limits. Desserts include baked rice pudding, custard and baklava.
At your service
Two servers had little to do early one evening when only two tables of diners occupied their time. Food arrived quickly. One likable server almost convinced us to try the Turkish wine.
Second helpings
Grilled eggplant, mixed with tomato, onion and garlic, makes a great tangy spread for the hot, house-baked bread that arrives first to the table. Lamb shish kebabs are grilled into flavorful morsels that rest on a bed of fragrant rice pilaf and are teamed with a mixed salad on the side. Also on skewers, chicken Adana makes a winning platter with rice and salad. The ground chicken is mixed with herbs and spices before being wrapped around skewers. A special one evening: a large, roasted lamb shank nestled in a pool of pleasantly spiced tomato sauce. The lamb easily fell from the bone but was a bit too gamey for one diner. The chopped shepherd salad combines tomatoes and cucumbers in a tangy dressing with a handful of parsley to freshen the flavors.
Thirst quenchers
A refreshing glass of sweetened Turkish tea makes a nice end to the meal. There’s a small wine list (including two Turkish wines and an outrageous $10-a-glass Chianti), beer and spirits. Juices, coffee and buttermilk complete the drink selection.
Take a pass
The manti, described on the menu as homemade Turkish tortellini, were intriguing. On one hand, the flavors fairly popped off the plate: gobs of garlic, lemon and yogurt as a sauce, with a bit of tomato sauce swirled in. The small dumplings, though, were chewy and swam forlornly in the sea of sauce. The baklava was stale, though not as sticky-sweet as most versions.
Extras
A kids menu offers chicken fingers and kebabs for $6.50.
Price range
Appetizers and soups, $2.90-$8.50; salads, $3.75-$8; main courses, $8.50-$17.95; desserts, $3-$5.50; drinks, $1-$10.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good