Who hasn’t hit some ethnic hot spot only to find inferior food over-adapted to American tastes? For those who have wondered where real ethnic eats can be found, along with a native crowd to prove the point, here’s some help from food writer William Rice, Tribune staff reporter Monica Eng and Magazine contributor Lisa Skolnik.
CARIBBEAN
Flowers’ Pot, 7328 N. Clark St., 773-761-4388.
This is one of the few Belizean restaurants in the city and features a homey, family-style vibe that can be a little inefficient but is mostly endearing. Instead of ordering off the menu at this Rogers Park staple, it’s best to ask the friendly staff what is good on that particular day.
Don’t miss–if available: The smooth, delicious Belizean tamales with whole chicken thighs or chunks of pork in the center and a little square of banana leaf for flavor. Also be sure to try the oxtail stew, the shrimpy conch fritters and the creamy, eggnoggy seaweed drink. It’s supposed to be an aphrodisiac. –M.E.
GREEK
Psistaria, 4711 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood, 847-676-9400.
As the Greek community has moved north, so have the restaurants that cater to it. This northwest suburban spot, with its painted Mediterranean murals and live Greek music on Saturday nights, is like a touch of Greektown minus the tourists.
What’s special: Tenderloin zante or shrimp saganaki. Also, Mediterranean smelts (not on the menu); fresh, fragrant dandelions zante; and the Greek cabbage salad.
Don’t miss: Nogatina for dessert, a custard cake with a layer of chocolate in the middle. –L.S.
INDIAN
Usmania Restaurant, 2253 W. Devon Ave., 773-262-1900.
This has quickly become a standout among the growing number of Pakistani-oriented restaurants on Devon. It really fills up after evening prayers.
What’s special: The nehari, a chunk of tender, warmly spiced beef shank. We also love the creamy brains masala (made with lamb and goat brains) which are showered with chiles and cilantro, and we’re wild about the gelatinous stewed beef trotters called paya. Scoop them all up with some of the freshly made naan and paratha. –M.E.
KOREAN
Kang Nam Restaurant, 4849 N. Kedzie Ave.,
773-539-2524.
The surroundings may be humble and not a lot of English is spoken at this strip-mall barbecue house but the food is uniformly fabulous.
What’s special: The marinated beef short ribs (kalbi) and beef (bulgogi). You will be grilling them at your table so someone needs to keep an eye on the fire while the others grab a leaf of lettuce, stuff it with rice, any of the dozens of condiments and a nice grilled piece of meat. Wrap it like a taco and you have a little bite of barbecue heaven.
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Don’t forget: They have more than barbecue here. We like the seafood pancake, terrific fried dumplings and awesome chap chae. –M.E
MEXICAN
Mi Tierra, 2528 S. Kedzie Ave.,
773-254-7722.
This Little Village spot, with its picture-pretty pink facade, has it all: great ambience, excellent music and outstanding, authentic food. A Mariachi group visits the tables on weekends.
What’s special: The beef, pork, chicken or shrimp parrilladas, which are prepared with a tabletop grill and served with pico de gallo, beans and tortillas. Also popular is the red snapper or giant shrimp al mojo de ajo.
Don’t miss: The divine desserts, crepas con cajeta (crepes smothered with a sweet gooey goat’s milk caramel sauce) or the platano frito (a fried banana served with vanilla ice cream and an orange sauce spiked with Triple Sec). –L.S.
NIGERIAN
Toham, 1422 W. Devon Ave., 773-973-4602.
West African cabdrivers make the best case for this place; they’re often toting around takeout cartons of the pungent goat stew and pass out business cards and menus from the place to their fares. But this is not for the faint of heart; the food tends to be sharp and spicy.
What’s special: Interesting meat, chicken or fish stews full of unusual spices, and they taste best served with jollof rice, which the cabbies call dirty rice. It’s mixed with peppers, onions and stewed tomatoes. The most requested dish is eforiro, a spinach stew cooked in a tomato-based sauce and served with fufu, which are doughy rounds of pounded yams.
Don’t miss: The unusual Nigerian desserts–puff-puff and chin-chin, fried concoctions of flour and sugar. –L.S.
PUERTO RICAN
Borinquen, 1720 N. California Ave., 773-227-6038.
In the world of Chicago’s cafeteria-style Puerto Rican joints, this Humboldt Park eatery is the biggest and most comfortable, with a great jukebox.
What’s special: This place is not called the home of the jibarito sandwich for nothing. It’s basically a garlicky steak sandwich made with deep-fried, smashed green plantains instead of bread. You can also get it with chicken, pork, ham or in a vegetarian version, but we love the original–hold the cheese.
Don’t miss: The plantain balls called mofongo, rice and pigeon peas, stews, lechon and all the fried stuff under heat lamps. –M.E
SERBIAN
Simplon Orient Express, 4520 N. Lincoln Ave.,
773-275-5522.
A lovely mural depicting the Danube River and the city of Belgrade covers one wall of this storefront restaurant and evokes visions of a railroad dining car. The menu offers dishes from 11 nations on the route of the famous transcontinental train. On Friday and Saturday nights a Serbian trio (violin, guitar and accordion) provides live music. Regular customers from the various Balkan nations check their politics at the door.
What’s special: A combination plate featuring hearty portions of cevapcici (Serbian hamburger steak) and raznjici (pork shish kebab) is popular, but those with hearty appetites order a platter of Serbian meat delights called the “Gypsy Plate.” Served family style, it includes much of the Serbian portion of the menu. Wash down the food with a burgundy wine from Montenegro.
Don’t miss: At meal’s end, Miki, the amiable host, may offer a glass of alcohol-laced Serbian “tea,” then another. –W.R.
SPANISH
Cafe Iberico, 739 N. LaSalle St., 312-573-1510.
What began as a four-table snack bar a decade ago has grown into a sprawling bar, several dining rooms and a deli complex. At about 10 p.m., as the Iberian dinner hour approaches, the customer mix changes, Spanish becomes the dominant language and the sound level increases as customers happily indulge themselves in intense conversations.
What’s special: A broad spectrum of tapas featuring serrano ham and cheeses from Spain, calamari and octopus. There’s no live music, but CDs are the latest from Spain, and satellite TV brings in live soccer matches and bullfights. Iberico’s tapas, priced by the pound, and fancy food products from Spain are on sale. –W.R.
TURKISH
Turkish Cuisine and Bakery, 5605 N. Clark St.,
773-878-8930.
The brick-walled Andersonville setting, with two separate dining rooms, is informal enough to please families and cozy enough to please couples. It’s a working bakery as well as a restaurant, and the baked goods draw Turks from the far corners of the city.
What’s special: In addition to the bakery goods, large portions of under-appreciated Turkish cuisine featuring oil-bathed Mediterranean vegetables, grilled and roasted meats and stuffed vegetable and meat pies. There is live Turkish music Friday through Sunday; on Saturday there’s an added attraction, an undulating belly dancer.
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Don’t miss: The heavenly baklava. Order it as dessert with your meal or take it home from the bakery. –W.R.