(2 forks)
1923 S. Blue Island Ave.
312-433-7620
Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Fans of Mexican food based on freshly made tortillas should be satiated after a visit to this eatery, which sits cheek-by-jowl with the El Milagro tortilla factory in Pilsen. That special attention was paid to the decor–a mix of tiles, folkloric items, shrines, small tables and comfortable chairs–moves it a step up from your average grab-and-go place. The concept is simple: A steam table is laden with an assortment of stews, stuffed chili peppers, etc. A griddle stays busy making meat for tacos.
On the plate
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Essentially, El Milagro offers hearty portions of well-flavored stews and other items, including pork in red sauce (puerco in salsa roja), stuffed peppers (chiles rellenos), oxtails (espinazo de res), breaded steak (milanesa de res) and beef tongue (lengua de res). These can be ordered as part of a plate (with rice, beans and tortillas) or done up as tacos. All dishes come with corn or flour tortillas. For dessert, there are sweet tamales.
At your service
The staff, neatly dressed in white shirts, black ties and aprons, are efficient and helpful, even if language occasionally challenges. When in doubt, just point at the food displayed. Once you enter, scan the illuminated menu hung above the grill, then give your order to the cashier. You pay, she puts a plastic number on your tray, and you head to a table. Orders that require preparation are brought to you, or you can pick them up at the counter. Don’t count on everything being available every day.
Second helpings
As soon as we pulled away from the restaurant, we were dreaming of a second helping of puerco in salsa verde, a delicious stew of pork chunks in a pepper-sparked tomatillo sauce. We ordered the stew in taco form, and the portion was bountiful. So was the burrito we had, built on El Milagro’s stewed beef (guisado de res). The deep red sauce had just enough chili-pepper bite. The chicken in mole, a leg and thigh portion, arrived bathed in a traditional deep, reddish-brown sauce and pleased the mole aficionados in our crowd.
Take a pass
A pork in red sauce tamale was just OK. Half of the people at our table loved the refried beans; the other half thought they were too runny.
Thirst quenchers
Soft drinks, coffee, bottled teas, champurrado (hot cornmeal shake) and aguas, in rice and tamarind flavors. Because it is a family restaurant, there is no alcohol.
Extras
The stews, rice, beans and salsa are available by the pound. A second El Milagro location, which we did not visit, is located at 3050 W. 26th St.; 773-847-9407.
Price range
Tacos, $1.85-$3.49; tamales, 69 cents; plates, $4-$7.49; extra order of tortillas, 15 cents; dessert tamales, 69 cents; beverages, 80 cents-$1.25.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the baiduhai.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good