(3 forks)
5210 W. Diversey Ave.
773-736-4949
Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight Tues.-Fri.; 11 a.m.-midnight Sat. and Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
White tablecloths and fresh flowers on each table dress up this long, narrow restaurant. An Old World feel is fostered by the bar down one side and a ceiling like pressed tin. In an unusual twist, the kitchen is up front by the windows instead of in the back. Chef Bela Olah stirs his stews in front of curious pedestrians passing by.
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On the plate
The hearty fare of Hungary finds a showcase on the chef’s menu, an extensive tour of appetizers, soups, salads, vegetarian entrees and a long list of paprikashes, gulyas, schnitzels and steaks. For organ meat fans, there is calf’s liver and tripe. Typical Hungarian produce such as peppers, cucumbers, mushrooms and red cabbage star in many of the dishes. Sour cream and farmers cheese add richness. Only a few entrees, such as the pork loin and wiener schnitzel, inched above our Cheap Eats limits.
At your service
Service on one quiet evening was excellent, from the offered tasting of two wines to help us choose a bottle to bringing an extra complimentary garlic bread appetizer to a latecomer.
Second helpings
Chips of garlic top sweet puffed bread that comes hot to the table. After the first surprising bite, the combo of hot garlic and sweet bread is oddly appealing. The Hungarian farmers plate offers a mini tasting of three delicious sausages, a small dish of a tangy cheese spread and a garnish of red bell peppers and onions. Cream of mushroom soup stands out for its earthy, rich flavor–it threatens to fill up the diner even before the entree arrives. A simple sour cream cucumber salad comes with many entrees. Chicken paprikash combines pieces of meat in a mild, creamy sauce with slightly chewy spaetzle on the side. Rich beef gulyas offers tender chunks of meat in a deep brown sauce with either boiled potatoes or spaetzle. Despite the quantities of the soup and entrees one evening, we still had a taste for the somloi galuska, a custard- and fruit-filled yellow cake with triple sec, whipped cream and chocolate sauce. But the waiter returned to say, “It’s too fresh. But it will be ready tomorrow!”
Take a pass
When the spicy yellow pepper salad arrived, it was a disappointing plate of plain, sliced, pickled Hungarian peppers in desperate need of a garnish or some lettuce.
Thirst quenchers
Wines are limited to Hungarian, French and Romanian, many of which are sweet. Try the inexpensive bottle of “Bull’s Blood,” a drier choice. Full bar and sodas available.
Extras
Call to ask about occasional performances by Hungarian musicians. Free delivery in the area with $15 minimum order; $2 otherwise.
Price range
Appetizers and soups, $3-$6.95; salads, $2.50-$3.50; main courses, $5.95-$15.50; desserts, $3-$4.75; drinks, $1.50-$5.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the baiduhai.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good