(1 fork)
3446 W. Peterson Ave.
773-588-9922
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; noon to 10 p.m. Sat.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
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Wheelchair accessible
First impressions
Photos of Cuba line the walls of this simple, airy dining room. Of the 16 tables, four sit on a raised level next to the large storefront window. The bar and deli counter line the back wall.
On the plate
It is traditional Cuban fare, from roast pork and picadillo to ropa vieja and Cuban sandwiches. Additional dishes include steaks (a few of which are beyond Cheap Eats prices), chicken dishes and seafood. Plantains, yucca and rice and beans fill the side order list.
At your service
Waitresses are friendly and fairly prompt with orders.
Second helpings
Consistently delicious and crispy Cuban sandwiches, with perfect amounts of sliced brick cheese, pickle, roast pork, ham and mustard, arrive sliced into triangles. The appetizer sampler presents a tasty bargain with a meat-filled empanada, two well-fried ham croquettes, a slightly sweet tamale, a fluffy potato and meat fritter called papa rellena and crunchy plantain chips called mariquitas. The platter comes with a Thousand Island-like dipping sauce for the croquettes and garlic oil for the mariquitas. Don’t miss the comforting white bean soup when it shows up on the lunch buffet. The ripe plantain side of platanos maduros was wonderfully soft and sweet but greasy. The yucca was well cooked, but the accompanying garlicky mojo de ajo sauce was made with a flavorless vegetable oil.
Take a pass
The lechon (roast pork) had citrus hints on the outside from the marinade, but on two out of three visits, the meat came out exceedingly dry. The tough and chewy shredded beef in the ropa vieja was less like ropa (clothes) and more like ropes. Cuban Island serves some of the blandest black beans ever tasted. The congri (black beans mixed with rice) is just as flavorless. We were able to rescue it with garlic oil, salt and hot sauce, but why couldn’t the kitchen do that?
Thirst quenchers
Cuban Island offers a selection of Cuban canned soft drinks including Yerba Mate, Iron Beer and Jupina. Cuban coffee is thick, black and sweet. The restaurant is still waiting for a liquor license, but diners can bring their own alcohol in the meantime.
Extras
Each meal starts with a basket of freshly toasted and buttered slices of French bread. A weekday lunch buffet is offered from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. It almost always includes rice, beans and plantains, but often a soup or entree like fried pork chunks or Cuban meatballs shows up.
Price range
Soups, $2.50-$3; sandwiches, $3.95-$4.50; entrees with sides, $7.50-$16; side orders, $1.50-$3.95; desserts, $2.50-$3.25; drinks, $1-$3. Weekday lunch buffet is $6.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good