It goes by the name of flammekuchen (flaam-KOOK-en) or tarte flambee, and it comes from the French province of Alsace. Its American cousin is simply called an onion and bacon pizza.
Some describe it as an Alsatian pizza. Thinly stretched dough is spread with fromage blanc (a fresh, young cheese, similar to cream cheese) or creme fraiche, bacon (or lardons) and caramelized onions.
Master of the tarte flambee in Chicago is Alsatian-born chef Jean Joho, who introduced it at Brasserie Jo (59 W. Hubbard St.; 312-595-0800).
It’s on the menu ($6.95) every day, but go Tuesdays and sample it gratis from 5-7 p.m. in the bar. On a recent visit, two other tarts were served: grilled shrimp was added to one, beets and goat cheese to another. Pair it with a glass of crisp riesling or spicy gewurztraminer and you may plan a trip to Strasbourg. Or, at least place a dinner order of another Alsatian dish, choucroute.
A new place for flammekuchen is Pierrot Gourmet on the ground level of the Peninsula Hotel (108 E. Superior St.; 312-573-6749). Pasty chef Ralph Gottschalk’s tasty version ($6.90) is thin and crisp, spread lightly with creme fraiche and topped with caramelized onions and bacon. Open for lunch and dinner until 7 p.m. (May be open later in summer.)
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