Dear friends:
In Chicago, as you know, we prepare for winter with a thorough, perhaps defensive, particularity. Understanding that we will be entertaining wind and ice for an extensive visit, we try to greet our guests prepared.
We stock up, expecting the hardship–or guilty pleasure–of house arrest. We lay in thick sweaters, slow-burning logs, full cellars, stew recipes. Board games. Heavy novels. Tickets to–or at least catalogs for–sunny excursions. Should some inconvenience–say, work or a particularly fluffy snowfall–interfere, we are prepared to open the front door as well. We do not neglect mitten clips, snow shovels, lock de-icer, flasks, boots, sable.
It is a rewarding time to venture out, well swaddled and briefly. For twirling across urban ponds under sentinel of skyscrapers. Trudging up and sliding down our few–but daringly swift–slopes. For walking the windswept lakefront, free of rollerbladers, full of stark beauty. For ogling windows. For appreciating a mile of trees in winter whites.
Coming in from the cold is winter’s deepest pleasure. There is the congratulatory cheer of warm homes, brilliant museums, abundant shopping, hot food. Dining rooms break out in roast goose and plum pudding. Cooks get competitive about chili. Pastry chefs mold chocolate and cream into the shapes of darkest winter: the cake as snow-dusted log, the cookie as gleaming star.
Stores outdo themselves with extravagance. Bold displays affirm our conviction that in this, the season of good deeds, charitable thoughts and mandatory kindness, there is still profound pleasure in securing the right toy.
And everyone is eager to comfort. Hotel fireplaces crackle, bookstore armchairs sag alluringly. Under Eartha’s urging, who could lack faith in Santa, baby?
This year, we are celebrating the season, in all its sparkling contrasts, sharpened by our longing for you, our absent friends. We are eager, as ever, to open gifts. Our wish list includes time together. And peace, size large, non-returnable. We hope this letter finds you, no matter how far from home, safe. And warmed by the certainty that we wish you were here.
DOWNTOWN DIVERSIONS
IF TRAVEL ISN’T IN THE CHRISTMAS CARDS THIS YEAR, HERE ARE DOZENS OF WAYS TO ENJOY CHICAGO DURING THE HOLIDAYS
— BY NOAH ISACKSON
HOME AND AWAY
We talked with Chicagoans –past, present and temporary–whose holiday wishes are directed toward people and events that are miles, even oceans, distant
Barbara Harris, of Lincoln Park, a nurse at Illinois Masonic Hospital. Harris’ son, Peter, is in the Army, based in Friedberg, Germany.
How is this holiday season different from others? The world has changed for me since Sept. 11. I don’t find myself more fearful, but certainly more in need of my family and my friends. It’s a need to be more connected.
If you could invite anyone to spend the holidays with your family, who would it be? It would certainly be my son, Peter. We actually planned to go and see him but now he is on alert, as is all the military. It’s been almost a year since we have seen him, and my need for family is greater now than at any other time.
Brian Lane Green, a New York actor performing in “Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat” at the Royal George Theatre.
If you could share the holidays with anyone, who would it be? I’d get a guest pass to heaven. I would ask to talk to the man in charge and ask for some clarity about what is going on and why, because the last few months haven’t made much sense.
What gifts would you give? While in heaven I would visit the gift shop. I’d buy out the store’s stock of boxes of forgiveness and I’d go back to Earth and pass them out. With the events that have happened there is so much hatred and resentment in this world, we need to stop and give forgiveness. I’d also keep one for myself.
Joseph Donfack, 33, of Yaounde, Cameroon, a postdoctoral candidate in human genetics at the University of Chicago.
Is it hard to be far from home during the holidays? It’s good to be in Chicago at that time. It gives me a good understanding of American culture. In the times that I’ve been here for the holidays, I’ve had good experiences with people from different cultures. We share dinner, talk about our countries and ourselves.
If you could share the holidays with anyone, who would it be? My family. I’d invite them to Chicago so they could see a different country. I’d take them sightseeing.
Patrick Anderson, 20, of Ironwood, Mich., an Evanston native and a member of the U.S. Luge Team.
Is this holiday different from last year? The Olympic luge team will be named around Christmas. So I could get a big Christmas present.
If you could spend your holidays with anyone, who would it be? I’d spend my holiday with my family and a lot of snow. Now that I’ve been on the road so much, it’s nice to get back and see everybody. Just getting the family back together is the best way to spend it.
Yvette Alexander, 31, disaster specialist, American Red Cross, South Side. Alexander has spent several weeks in New York, helping the Manhattan chapter respond to the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. She plans to return in January.
How is this holiday season going to be different? I think this Christmas is going to be so incredibly special for everyone. They will be celebrating the life they have and the lives of their family members. They will also be expressing sorrow and grief for those no longer with us. In Chicago, there seems to be an increase in disasters right around the holiday season. Last Christmas weekend, we must have had over 20 responses to fires in single-family homes. So you want to celebrate but, at the same time, you are acutely aware that some families are going to associate the holiday season with disappointment and loss.
If you could spend the holidays with anyone, who would it be? My grandmother. She’s getting up there in age. But it was quite a thing for me to come to New York because I was afraid to travel. My grandmother lives in Arkansas. So, if I had my wish, I would take an alternate way to see her.
TOP HOLIDAY ALBUMS
These stores are making sure they have plenty of these favorites in stock
JAZZ RECORD MART, 444 N. Wabash Ave.
“Crescent City Christmas Card,” Wynton Marsalis (Columbia). Trumpet master Marsalis jazzes up traditional holiday tunes.
“Three Suites,” Duke Ellington (Columbia). Ellington’s version of the Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy has made this album quite popular around the holidays.
“The Sound of Christmas,” Ramsey Lewis (Chess). The Chicago jazz pianist’s first gold record, in 1961.
“Merry Christmas Baby,” Charles Brown and Friends (King). Laid-back Christmas tunes from the R&B artist.
“Hipsters’ Holiday,” various artists (Rhino). Christmas hits from classic to cool, including Eartha Kitt’s “Santa Baby,” Louis Armstrong’s “Cool Yule” and the comic “Five Pound Box of Money” by Pearl Bailey.
SEE HEAR, 217 W. North Ave.
“Handel’s Messiah,” Eugene Ormandy and the Philadelphia Orchestra (Sony). The choral classic, featuring the Mormon Tabernacle Choir.
“The Christmas Song,” Nat “King” Cole (Capitol). Includes a second take on the title track, a studio-crafted duet with Cole’s daughter, Natalie.
“Ella Fitzgerald’s Christmas” (Capitol). First released in 1967, the jazz queen sings straight-ahead versions of “O Holy Night,” “O Come All Ye Faithful, “We Three Kings” and others.
“A Very Special Christmas, Vol. 1,” various artists (A&M). Run-DMC, Bon Jovi, the Pretenders, Eurythmics, Stevie Nicks, Madonna and Whitney Houston are some of the contemporary stars who sing old Christmas favorites.
“Very Best of Bing Crosby Christmas” (MCA). This album draws from three of Crosby’s Christmas albums and includes the original version of “White Christmas.”
CROW’S NEST MUSIC, 333 S. State St.
“The Three Tenors Christmas,” Jose Carreras, Placido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti (Sony). A 1999 live recording of the Three Tenors with the Vienna Symphony Orchestra.
“My Kind of Christmas,” Christina Aguilera (RCA). A teenager’s delight: Aguilera sings 11 holiday songs including “Merry Christmas Baby,” “Christmas Time” and “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas.”
“Christmas on Death Row,” various artists (Interscope). It’s a gangsta rap holiday party as the Death Row posse unleashes Snoop Doggy Dogg, Michel’le, Tha Dogg Pound, Nate Dogg and others on some holiday favorites.
“Home for Christmas,” ‘N Sync (RCA). The teen heartthrobs aim for some holiday fun with a cutesy mix of oldies and originals.
ROCK RECORDS,175 W. Washington St.
“A Charlie Brown Christmas,” Vince Guaraldi (Fantasy). The classic recording brings back memories and includes bits of dialogue from Peanuts characters.
“Christmas With Yolanda Adams” (Elektra). Adams’ first Christmas album brings her R&B, gospel and soul influences to the classic carols.
“Ally McBeal: A Very Ally Christmas,” various artists (Sony). Characters from the Fox television show sing Christmas tunes.
“Slow Jams Christmas, Vols. 1-3,” various artists (Capitol). Legends including Al Green, Al Jarreau, Chuck Berry, Patti LaBelle and Luther Vandross sing dozens of holiday anthems.
“The Soul Train Christmas Starfest,” various artists (Sony). Sixteen songs from R&B legends including Stevie Wonder, James Brown, the Isley Brothers, Luther Vandross, Johnny Gill and more.
HEAR MUSIC, 932 N Rush St.
“Ella Wishes You a Swinging Christmas,” Ella Fitzgerald (Verve). Recorded in 1960, it’s filled with the jazz style that made Fitzgerald a star.
“James Brown’s Funky Christmas” (Polygram). The Godfather of Soul sings “Santa Claus Goes Straight to the Ghetto” and funkifies some Christmas favorites.
“A Jolly Christmas From Frank Sinatra” (Capitol). Ol’ Blue Eyes puts some jazz, swing and suave into traditional holiday tunes.
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“Christmas Caravan,” Squirrel Nut Zippers (Mammoth). The retro swing and jazz band tries out a variety of styles, from blues to cowboy music and bluegrass.
ALTERNATIVES TO THE MUSEUM BLOCKBUSTERS
Gingerbread Fantasy Factory, Chicago Children’s Museum, Navy Pier, 700 E. Grand Ave. Children can make, bake and decorate their own cookie creations or take part in weekend workshops to learn how to make a gingerbread house. Plus games, music and art activities. Reservations are required for the workshop (312-464-8242).
“The Short Century: Independence and Liberation Movements in Africa, 1945-1994,” “Works by William Kentridge,” Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E. Chicago Ave. In “The Short Century,” the work of more than 60 artists from 20 African nations is displayed in an exhibit that chronicles how politics influences art. The charcoal drawings and animated films of South African artist William Kentridge explore apartheid and post-apartheid South Africa. Suggested admission is $10 for adults, $6 for students.
Clarke House Museum, 1827 S. Indiana Ave. Chicago’s oldest home will be decorated to reflect the early Victorian holiday tradition. Hourlong tours of the 1836 Greek Revival style house are offered Wednesday through Sunday afternoons and special holiday tours are available in December. Call 312-326-1480 for schedules. Pre-paid reservations required. Admission is $7, or $6 for senior citizens and children.
“December Celebrations,” Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St. A monthlong festival offered by the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs to observe the winter solstice and celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah and Kwanzaa. The festival of free and ticketed events includes a world bazaar, musical performances, tours and holiday cooking classes.
“The Chicago and Vicinity Show (with a bias),” Klein Art Works, 400 N. Morgan St. Modeled after a now-extinct locals-only show at the Art Institute, Klein Art Works is showing dozens of Chicago-area artists from Nov. 30 through Dec. 31. “I want to avoid artists who are represented, artists who people are familiar with,” says gallery owner Paul Klein. “We’re showing local people who have the potential to go somewhere.”
SIX VIEWS OF FANTASTIC LIGHTS
When downtown concierges are asked where to see seasonal lights and sights, this is what they recommend
Navy Pier, 600 E. Grand Ave.
“Some people forget that Navy Pier offers one of the most beautiful views of the city,” says Jon Winke of the Ritz-Carlton, 160 E. Pearson St. “Stand almost anywhere, look west and see one of the best views of the downtown skyline, no doubt about it.”
The ZooLights Festival at Lincoln Park Zoo, 2200 N. Cannon Drive, beginning Nov. 23, and Skate on State, at State and Randolph Streets. “They’re both so beautiful and romantic,” says Lesa Bricker-Reich of the Four Seasons, 120 E. Delaware Pl. “The fun of skating and being in the city at the same time. And the feeling of taking in the lights and having a warm cider. Just wonderful, winter-wonderland things to do in the city.”
The Christmas tree at the Daley Center, 50 W. Washington St. “Shoppers, tourists, business-men and -women flock to the tree during the day,” says Alex Delgado of the Allerton Crowne Plaza, 701 N. Michigan Ave. (this sentence as published has been corrected in this text). “Everyone seems to be in the holiday spirit.”
The Gold Coast. “It’s a terrific place for a walk, especially at night when all the Christmas lights are on,” says Cathy Hamm of the Fairmont Hotel, 200 N. Columbus Drive. “You have all those wonderful old brownstones between Division and North Avenue. Streets like Astor, Schiller, Dearborn, all lit up with white lights. Mansions and three-story homes that are always decorated so beautifully with wreaths and holly and a big Christmas tree in the front window.”
The Magnificent Mile Lights Festival, Nov. 17-18. “Thousands of lights in a great procession along the Magnificent Mile. It’s magical watching the lights move down the city,” says Mark Mehlenbacher of the Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton St. “Every year, the hotel is filled with out-of-town guests who come just to see it.”
LIMITED TIME ONLY
GIMMICKS AND EVENTS THAT SET THE HOLIDAY MOOD
Seasonal spuds
The menu at the Mashed Potato Club, 316 W. Erie St., always reflects something, be it the whims of owner Greg Kovach or the freshest vegetables in season. Kovach recently charged his chefs with creating “something holiday.” Here’s what they came up with; look for them on the menu for $9.95 each.
Hanukkah potatoes: Peruvian opal potatoes are mashed to create a blue bed for potato pancakes, served under a dollop of sour cream and golden caviar.
Snowman potatoes: Three stacked scoops of white potatoes for a body with edible features including a smoked-salmon scarf.
Santa potatoes: A face made from mashed sweet potatoes dyed red with beet juice. A whipped-cream hat, marshmallow beard, maraschino cherry nose and M&M eyes.
Charles Dickens Buffet
This English-style holiday celebration has been a tradition at the Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Pl., since 1920. The feast, offered Dec. 12 through 24, begins with the procession of a boar’s head and includes Yorkshire pudding, steak and kidney pie, plum pudding and a six-foot Yuletide cake. $39.50 per person.
Tree mannequins (right)
Ever see a Christmas tree dressed like a diva? The unconventional holiday display at Marche, 833 W. Randolph St., features a half-dozen Christmas trees spliced, diced and fixed with phony arms and legs. Half organic and half outrageous, the tree mannequins have taken the form of Diana Ross, Wonder Woman and Jackie O.
“Chestnuts roasting on an open fire…”
Starting around Thanksgiving, anyone can duck in from the cold, order an eggnog and roast complimentary chestnuts at the fireplace in the lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E. Delaware Pl.
Christkindlmarket
Chicago Part open-air market, part European village, this festival at Daley Plaza, 50 W. Washington St., celebrates German culture and the holiday spirit. Running Nov. 22 through Dec. 20, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., it features live entertainment, German delicacies and a chance to buy German crafts, ornaments, clothes and art.
8 FAVORITE DISHES
Whether it’s roast duck or fruitcake, everyone has a favorite dish they reserve for holiday time. Chefs are no exception
Calamari pie. Rick Tramonto, executive chef and partner at Tru, 676 N. St. Clair St. “During the holidays, our family would get together and have an amazing Italian fish dinner: six or seven courses of fish. My mom would make calamari pie, a traditional Christmas Eve dish from the Naples region. It’s amazing and it brings back all my childhood memories. It’s made from tart dough, chili tomatoes, lots of garlic, tomato sauce, and, of course, fresh squid. It’s like a stuffed quiche with a spicy tomato sauce.”
Soy marinated breast of duck with pumpkin puree, haricots verts and pineapple chutney sauce. J. Andrew Coates, executive chef at the Pump Room, 1301 N. State Pkwy. “You have the tropical flavor of the pineapple, the earthy flavor of the beans, and the soy flavor of the duck. Basically a dish that infuses flavors from all over the world into a hearty autumn-flavored meal. It’s one of my favorite dishes to prepare for family and friends and at the restaurant. It gets a bit beyond how much turkey and mashed potatoes can you eat.”
Roasted goose with braised red cabbage and chestnuts. Choucroute. Jean Joho, chef and proprietor at Everest, 440 S. LaSalle St. “They’re both regional dishes from Alsace, France, my homeland. The roasted goose is what my parents would make on Christmas Eve. It reminds me of home, so I serve it to my family. The choucroute is a combination of cabbage, sausage and meat. It’s very typical of my homeland and it’s a dish I like to serve friends on Christmas.”
Salmon patties. Roast goose with a dressing of apple, thyme and vegetables. Michael Kornick, chef and owner of MK, 868 N. Franklin St. “For Hanukkah, I like to serve fresh salmon patties. Fresh poached salmon, mixed with white breadcrumbs, cooked in olive oil, and pan fried. They were a big part of my family dinners dating back to my grandmother, and frying things in oil is just part of the Hanukkah cooking tradition. The roast goose is a Christmas dish I picked up years ago when I was in New England with some friends who made a traditional British Christmas dinner. It was just delicious, so I’ve been making it ever since.”
Buche de Noel. Sandro Gamba, head chef at NoMI, the Park Hyatt, 800 N. Michigan Ave. “It’s the obligatory dessert of France. My father was a pastry chef; he made the most amazing buche de Noel I’ve ever had in my life.”
Pumpkin ravioli. Tony Mantuano, head chef at Spiaggia, 980 N. Michigan Ave. “When I worked in Italy, I learned how to make tortelli di zucca: pumpkin ravioli. That was 17 years ago, and now I always make it during the holidays. It’s on our restaurant menu and I serve it at home, accompanied by a roast turkey. My son, who is 8, knows that pumpkin ravioli means it’s holiday time.”
FIVE STORES WITH ALL THE TRIMMINGS
Neiman Marcus, 737 N. Michigan Ave. Amid 7-foot Christmas trees, the holiday department offers Waterford crystal ornaments, hand-blown spheres, softball-size balls with winter landscapes as well as more traditional decorations.
Pottery Barn, 734 N. Michigan Ave. The theme this year is an old-fashioned Christmas, reflected in more than a dozen new ornament styles. From glass luster balls to old-fashioned beaded snowflakes and silver reindeer, everything has the look of an antique.
Christmas on the Avenue, Chicago Place Mall, 700 N. Michigan Ave. One of only a few strictly Christmas shops downtown, Christmas on the Avenue is 3,600 square feet of Christmas wares. Up to 2,000 different ornaments are in stock, many featuring Chicago themes, landmarks and celebrities.
Crate and Barrel, 646 N. Michigan Ave. Hundreds of ornaments are arranged by color and style, including hand-blown glass ornaments from Eastern Europe.
Lord & Taylor, Water Tower Place, 835 N. Michigan Ave. Along with traditional ornaments, the store is featuring “Brave Heart,” a hand-painted, hand-blown, heart-shaped American flag. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Disaster Relief Fund of the American Red Cross in New York.
WHERE THE HEARTH IS
Blackhawk Lodge, 41 E. Superior St.
This restaurant modeled after a rustic country home is warmed by three stone fireplaces. In the bar, chilly patrons can relax in armchairs or overstuffed couches while sitting by the fire.
The Tremont Chicago, 100 E. Chestnut St.
Two fireplaces warm a homey hotel lobby. Take a seat on one of several couches or listen to music on the baby grand piano as you warm up.
RL/Ralph Lauren, 115 E. Chicago Ave.
This lounge and bar looks more like the library of an English manor. The black marble fireplace is the heart of a mahogany room filled with leather chairs, Persian rugs and a zebra-skinned mirror.
Tsunami, 1160 N. Dearborn St.
The upstairs Sake Lounge of this glitzy sushi restaurant is dark and cozy and lit by candlelight. Plenty of armchairs and small tables surround its roaring fireplace.
Biggs, 1150 N. Dearborn St.
Located in a 19th Century graystone Victorian mansion, Biggs restaurant has a marble fireplace in nearly every room. A garden-level bar specializes in cognac and brandies and has plenty of booths surrounding its hearth.
HOT TOYS TO FIGHT OTHER SHOPPERS FOR
What the following stores expect to be placed under a lot of trees this year.
FAO SCHWARZ, 840 N. Michigan Ave.
More Top Picks Kits Plant
Barbie in the Nutcracker (Mattel, $9-$75). Barbie as the Sugar Plum Princess in the classic ballet. The set comes with plenty of props, and other dolls include Ken as the Nutcracker Prince.
Razor Airgo (Razor, $99). A new spin on an old-fashioned toy, the Razor Airgo is a high-powered pogo stick that uses air compression instead of springs.
Xbox (Microsoft, $539.99). On Nov. 15, Microsoft enters the video game world with a 733-MHz system that plays games, DVDs, and comes with an internal hard drive.
TOYS ‘R’ US, 10 S. State St.
Game Boy Advance (Nintendo, $99). Nintendo’s latest and most high-resolution contribution to the portable game world. Its arrival was paired with the release of 15 new games for the Game Boy system.
Harry Potter Collection ($10.99-$49.99). Retailers expect demand for all Harry Potter toys to surge with the Nov. 16 release of “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone,” the full-length movie based on J.K. Rowling’s magical tales.
Animal Alley Collection (Toys “R” Us, $12.99-$99.99). Monkeys, dogs, lions, tigers, and other cuddly but oversized stuffed animals.
THE LEGO STORE, The Shops at North Bridge, 520 N. Michigan Ave.
Bionicle ($6.95). Assemble any one of six action figures charged with defending their make-believe world against evil intruders. Or combine three figures to create a larger hero.
Lego Studios ($179.95). A Lego system for the aspiring moviemaker that includes a PC movie camera, editing software, and an assortment of Lego props and figures. First you build your story, then film and edit the scenes before adding a host of sound or special effects.
Dept. 56 Creation Station ($89.95). This special edition set is an already-assembled house, designed like a North Pole toy shop where elf builders are busy making presents for the holidays.
GALT TOYS, 900 N. Michigan Ave.
Jumbo Music Block (Neurosmith, $60). A colorful and very interactive toy that teaches children how to recognize shapes and sounds and sharpens their motor skills. The 15-by-15-inch block plays children’s songs and engages youngsters with zippers, Velcros and buttons.
Tiny Love Symphony-in-Motion 3-D Developmental Mobile (Maya/Tiny Love, $45). Not your everyday baby mobile, this bedtime toy plays classical melodies instead of traditional lullabies.
Language Littles (Language Littles, $37.99). Bilingual dolls that speak either Spanish, French, Italian or Japanese along with English. The soft-bodied, 16-inch doll recites up to 30 friendly phrases.
GREAT BOWLS OF FIRE
Ed Debevic’s, 640 N. Wells St. A sign inside this wacky diner says “Our Chili Speaks for Itself.” When it doesn’t, the staff steps in, urging customers to try a homemade recipe that has been around since 1984. $3.75-$4.15, depending on topping.
P.J. Clarke’s, 1204 N. State St. Bar owner Mike Segal says the recipe came to him 15 years ago via former Rep. Dan Rostenkowski’s wife, LaVerne. Hence the name Mrs. R’s chili, a mild dish so popular that the bar is thinking of selling it in stores. Cup $3.25, bowl $4.95.
Cactus, 404 S. Wells St. Chef Naresh Nair, 32, developed his recipe after years of watching his mother and grandmother make chili at their Wheaton homes. Nair’s recipe is endorsed by “Spicy Mike” Usiak, who was chairman of this year’s Windy City Chili Cook Off. “It’s got some kick to it, but it’s made in the homemade style,” says Usiak. Cup $2, bowl $4.50.
Blue Frog Bar and Grill, 676 N. LaSalle St. Owner Mimi Witschy grew up in Texas and her chili is an ode to home: no beans, spicy and filled with steak. Though her current version is not for the timid, Witschy says she has actually toned down the original blend for Midwestern tastes. Cup $3.25, bowl $5.50.
Harry Caray’s, 33 W. Kinzie St. Head for the bar on a cold winter afternoon, where chili is on the lunch menu. The mild recipe was developed by Harry’s widow, Dutchie. Cup $3.25, bowl $4.25.