As chilly weather comes rolling in, a lot of us could use a little comfort and warmth. Here are some hearty highlights from the World Eats archives–as well as a new schnitzel installment–that may help you through this time.
SCHNITZEL
Schnitzel is a word of Germanic origin meaning a slice, a cut, a cutlet. Most often that cutlet is veal, though it could be pork, chicken or turkey. The meat is pounded flat, dipped in egg batter, rolled in breadcrumbs then pan-fried.
Like the hamburger, schnitzel is a dish of almost infinite variety. Where the former can be a blue-cheese burger, a pizza burger, a mushroom burger, schnitzel can range from the straightforward Wiener schnitzel (cutlet in the style of Vienna), to a Florida restaurant’s Schnitzel Australia, in which the breaded cutlet is improbably covered with scallops and shrimp.
Likely the greatest range of the dish in this area is to be found at Schnitzel Platz (729 North Ave., Glendale Heights, 630-942-9900). The menu there shoulders a mighty 16 varieties of schnitzel, from the common sorts to Gypsy schnitzel with red and green peppers and onion and even Hawaiian schnitzel with (you guessed it) ham, pineapple and cheese. The schnitzels at this platz range from $11.95 to $15.95.
Little Europe at Timber Ridge, just off Interstate Highway 94 near Kenosha (exit 344), is a basically Czech restaurant offering seven schnitzels. They include Old Prague Style schnitzel (ground pork, cheese, onions, mushrooms) and the counterintuitive but fun to say Sicilian schnitzel (Italian seasonings, Parmesan cheese). Some of the schnitzels here are available in two sizes, 8 oz. and 16 oz. Prices range from $10.95 for Old Prague Style to $14.95 for the 1-pound Cordon Bleu (topped with ham and melted cheese).
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The Metro Club (3032 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-929-0622), a warm, lodgelike Austrian restaurant behind an austere street facade, offers just one schnitzel, Wiener schnitzel, but it’s a giant. Not a lot of plate shows beneath this $18.75 behemoth. Wash it down with a Bitburger Pils (on tap) or one of the other European beers available.
— Charles Leroux
SHEPHERD’S PIE
Some culinary purists will argue that what Chicago-area restaurants are calling shepherd’s pie is actually cottage pie, but few will argue that the hearty meat stew served with a topping of mashed potatoes is not a soul-warming hug from the cooks of Great Britain. The difference between the two, say some, is that shepherd’s pie features lamb. (Shepherds tend sheep — get it.) Cottage pie, on the other hand, features minced beef, and that’s the variety most common in Chicago.
Once past the meat matters, though, cooks from Ireland, Scotland and England agree the mixture should include carrots, peas and a made-from-scratch mashed potato topping. While it’s popular as pub fare, one cook from the Cotswolds tells us grandmothers often use shepherd’s pie as a way to sneak vegetables into their grandchildren, finely mincing them so they become indistinguishable to finicky eaters.
Restaurateurs around Chicago are fans of those vegetables, with chunks of carrots, onions, etc., sharing gravy space with the meat. So are we.
Our favorites include the version at the Duke of Perth (2913 N. Clark St.; 773-477-1741), where the dish is dubbed Rob Roy ($7.95, with salad). It arrives in a crock, with its well-seasoned meat stew topped by tasty potatoes and a pile of bright green peas alongside. Another version ($9.25; pictured), redolent with herbs, is served at McNally’s Pub (201 E. Main St., St. Charles, 630-513-6300; and 122 S. York Rd., Elmhurst, 630-941-7100). At Chief O’Neill’s (3471 N. Elston Ave.; 773-473-5263), a substantial portion, less seasoned than others, is presented with potatoes piped around the edge and browned under the broiler ($8.95). Another contender is the version served at Vaughn’s Pub (5485 Northwest Highway; 773-631-9206), where no one will give away the secret seasonings that flavor the ground beef-based dish ($8.95).
— Margaret Sheridan and Judy Hevrdejs
MATZO BALLS
When it comes to matzo balls, there are two schools. Those who like them fluffy like pillows and those who like them dense like billiard balls (well, not quite). We personally prefer them somewhere in between, but being dumpling devotees, we like to try them all. And to kick off the cold weather season, we’ve compiled some favorite places to nosh on and sip this comforting brew.
In addition to huge sandwiches and fresh bakedgoods, Max and Benny’s Delicatessen (461 Waukegan Rd., Northbrook; 847-272-9490) makes an tasty balanced version of this classic soup, while The Bagel Restaurant (50 Old Orchard Shopping Center, Skokie; 847-677-0100) offers a substantial ball that becomes almost creamy after a good soak. What’s Cooking (6107 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-583-3050) serves an nice airy sphere in its chickeny consomme. But we have to give the matzo ball trophy to Manny’s Coffee Shop and Deli (1141 S. Jefferson St. 312-939-2855 ). Not only is its fabulous broth swimming with rich droplets of fat, but the not-too-dense yet not-too-light ball (made with plenty of schmaltz) was full of textural character and huggable flavor.
— Monica Eng
PAPAS RELLENAS
Contrary to what some might think, the historical homeland of the potato is not Ireland — or Idaho, for that matter. Its culinary birthplace is instead Peru, and this is deliciously evident in the Peruvian treat papa rellena. This toothsome dish starts with mashed spuds that are wrapped around a filling of beef, onions and olives to form a potato-shaped zeppelin that is then deep fried to a crisp and served with marinated onions. A fine version of this dish is served up at Rinconcito Sudamericano (1954 W. Armitage Ave.; 773-489-3126) for $5. But perhaps the most spectacularly yummy papa rellena we’ve tried yet came from Rogers Park’s Taste of Peru (6545 N. Clark St.; 773-381-4540) for $4.35. Not only is it full of tasty chunks of good beef, but it comes with a big side of sweet and limey, marinated onions that are ides a eamily tangy foil to this hearty dish.
— Monica Eng
POZOLE
Toss a cold-weather party in Mexico and you’re bound to find someone ladling up steaming bowls of that hominy-and-meat soup called pozole.
Basically, it’s a richly flavored broth that moves into the big leagues with the addition of chunks of meat (usually pork) and lots of hominy (plump and tender corn kernels). Huge bowls are served with garnishes that include chopped onion, shredded lettuce or cabbage, Key lime or lemon wedges, cilantro and dried chile. Crisply fried small corn tortillas are served on the side.
Usually the broth has a slightly reddish tint, but we’ve been to parties in Mexico where three different pozoles have been served — one seasoned for a red broth, one for a green broth and one with white broth. Here, we’ve sampled pozole (POH-tsole-ay) and have found the red broth to be predominant.
Our favorites? You can’t beat the huge serving (pictured at right) at La Finca (3361 N. Elston Ave.; 773-478-4006), where the broth is flavorful, loaded with meat and hominy, and comes with the expected lineup of garnishes ($5.95). Get hungry at 2 a.m.? Try pozole at El Presidente (2558 N. Ashland Ave.; 773-525-7938), a 24-hour eatery were the big bowl ($5) is a dinner unto itself.
— Margaret Sheridan and Judy Hevrdejs
GOULASH
In Chicago, goulash is a meal. In ski resorts in Austria especially, it’s a grab-‘n’-go snack, eaten before the final schuss of the day. Vendors mill around lift lines, offering weary skiers a hearty, meaty pick-me-up in paper cups. A plump, crusty roll, called semmel, doubles as a spoon.
To avoid a culture war, we’d like to say that the Hungarian, German and Austrian chefs all make terrific goulashes — and no two are identical. By definition, goulash is a stew, usually of beef (or veal, pork or sausage), onions and potatoes in a rich stock. Purists argue over tomatoes and vegetables. But no one debates paprika (hot or spicy or both), which injects flavor and color. Memories of skiing flooded the brain with every bite of goulash from Edelweiss Bistro (7650 W. Irving Park Rd., Norridge; 708-452-6040). Its peppery kick begged for beer. A cup sells for $3.95; a bowl, $5.25. The rich gravy is matched only by the terrific array of breadstuffs, including a fine semmel roll. No wonder. Chef Ryan Nelson studied cooking in Vienna.
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The folks at Metro Club (3032 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-929-0622) decline to divulge the secret of their silken goulash. (It’s not sour cream, Pepo, the owner, insists. “It’s made with love.”) In any case, it’s also made with beer and two styles of paprika (Spanish and Hungarian). Fresh bread and butter tag along with a portion, $4.75.
The version from Mirabell Restaurant (3454 W. Addison St.; 773-463-1962) pays homage to peas and carrots in a shade of sunset red/orange. Spaetzle (tiny dumplings) enrich the generous portion, $3 for cup, $4 bowl.
— Margaret Sheridan and Judy Hevrdejs