I’ve long thought that one could make a mint by opening an organic fried chicken stand. People love the idea of indulging in something decadent that’s also supposed to be “good for them.” I think that’s why I dig deep-fried tofu. Whether it’s Thai tofu tod triangles with accompanying chili-flecked fish sauce or the crunchy cornmeal-coated tofu tidbits from Soul Vegetarian East (205 E. 75th St.; 773-224-0104) served with a tangy barbecue sauce, these crispy, spongy soy bean pillows give me a warm combo sensation of virtue and hedonism. In my lifelong search for the perfect deep fried tofu snack, I have encountered some wonderful treats (like Japanese-Korean agedashi tofu) and some horrendous but addictive ones (like Taiwanese stinky tofu). One of my faves comes from the Fujianese eatery in Chinatown Square called Ken Kee. There they serve up six big puffy triangles of tofu ($3.75) with a bowl of green onion-flecked chicken and pork broth for dipping. Think fried dough, dipped in a tasty broth with a subtle soy bean flavor. Yum. If that doesn’t float your boat, there’s always organic fried chicken.
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