(2 forks)
3930 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood, 847-673-0777
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun.
Credit cards: Not accepted
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Aside from a few photos of Uzbek cities hung on the wall, this former strip-mall coffee shop still looks like a strip-mall coffee shop. Fake flowers decorate the 15 or so tables.
On the plate
The traditional dishes from the Central Asian country of Uzbekistan are adapted to available resources in Chicago. Diners can try meat, potato and squash dumplings and turn-overs as well as soups, pilafs, kabobs and cold salads. The Georgian chicken tabaka also makes an appearance.
At your service
The waitstaff of mostly young women from Mongolia offers friendly service but can’t quite explain everything in English. Dishes arrive on the table in the order in which the kitchen finishes them.
Second helpings
We enjoyed the flaky meat, potato or squash turnovers called sumsa as well as the fried manti (noodle dumplings with the same fillings). We also liked the tashkent salad with strips of radish, boiled beef, onion, hard-cooked egg and mayonnaise, although the mixture strikes us as much more Russian than Uzbek. Chuchvara (meat dumpling soup) features tiny yummy packets of noodle and meat in a fatty broth. The lamb Uzbekistan, a meat and vegetable dish uncharacteristically cooked in a foil packet and covered in cheese, had nice flavor.
Take a pass
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The hasip, or sausage made of spleen, onion, meat and rice, lacks any flavor. We found the Korean style carrot salad way too garlicky and salty. The lagmon, a robust meat and vegetable soup traditionally served with chewy handmade noodles, checks in here as a bland broth with spaghetti noodles from a package. The bairam plov (celebration pilaf) is properly greasy with tender chunks of lamb, but is in sore need of salt.
Thirst quenchers
Green or black tea is traditional but you can also purchase soda and Turkish coffee. Although it wasn’t available during either visit, kompot, or fruit in its juice, is on the menu. The restaurant doesn’t have a liquor license but customers are welcome to bring their own.
Extras
The big round loaves of bread emerge crisp and delicious from the oven (although they aren’t much like the chewy, crusty clay oven breads of Uzbekistan), but reheated loaves are tasteless and stale.
Desserts
Finish your meal with a hot pot of green tea and the super sweet chuk-chuk, which is like a rice crispy treat made with wheat flour noodles. Cake, fruit and fried dough with sugar are also available.
Price range
Salads, $2.83-$5; entrees, $3.59-$11.99, soups, $4.86- $5.86; desserts, 65 cents-$2.09; drinks, $1.29-$2.59.
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Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.