My first encounter with Union Pier some five years ago did not happen by
choice. I was driving home from a church retreat on Interstate Highway 94 with
a carload of friends (including my fiancee Amy, now my wife) when my
alternator blew out. I coasted onto the first exit ramp I saw, steering my
hobbled car until it ran out of steam–straight into the driveway of the Union
Pier Antique Mall.
With nothing else to do but wait for a tow truck, we did the sensible thing
and went shopping. I landed an old Remington typewriter for 60 bucks.
A few months later, in quest of a beach vacation spot, Amy and I returned
to Union Pier. We’ve been coming back ever since, mostly because the area
offers a wealth of low-key diversions bound to suit our fickle moods.
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It’s not just Union Pier, but surrounding communities such as New Buffalo,
Lakeside, Harbert and Sawyer–collectively known as Harbor Country–that offer
weekend vacationers options from winery tours to antique malls. The shopping
mecca known as the Lighthouse Outlet Mall isn’t far away either (just over the
Indiana border in Michigan City). But on this particular weekend, Amy and I
decided to a) hit the beach repeatedly until tanned and mellow and/or b) tool
around in our ’91 Corolla and scout for fun stops.
Inn at Union Pier
Our home base was a tried-and-true one, the Inn at Union Pier. The inn is a
bit on the pricey side, but if you can swing the indulgence, go for it. The
breakfasts, served in a cheery enclosed porch, are large and satisfying enough
to make skipping lunch easy (take a few extra muffins from the table just in
case). At night, the breakfast nook is stocked with goodies.
The Michigan wines served in the common room are a nice homespun touch.
They come from Heart of the Vineyard winery in nearby Baroda, worth a visit
just to see the century-old round white barn. Amy and I make regular trips
there to pick up gift cases of cranberry dessert wine for the holidays. Heart
of the Vineyard also offers tours, tastings and winemaking classes.
If you’d rather just hang out at the inn, you can sip your wine there and
admire the fireplace. The Inn at Union Pier is home to the largest collection
of antique Swedish fireplaces, or kakelugns, in the U.S. Built between 1885
and 1920, they were salvaged from Swedish homes, then shipped to the inn and
reassembled there by master Swedish stove builders. Not only do they look
beautiful, they all work–and can heat a chilly room in minutes with just a
minimal amount of wood.
For outdoor pursuits, the inn provides free bikes for guests and sits a few
hundred yards from the beach, a 10-minute drive from Warren Dunes State Park.
Unfortunately, our weekend caught us in the middle of a dastardly spell of
March-like weather that nixed biking and sunbathing. But bundled properly, Amy
and I took repeated walks up and down the shore, watching the surf churn in
all its restless, roaring wonder.
The other way to pace away your weekend in the Union Pier area is to visit
its many antique malls. Even a novice can find many of them just by driving
back and forth along the Red Arrow Highway (which merges with U.S. Route 12
near New Buffalo).
Antique diversity
One of our favorites is the Harbert Antique Mall, located between Lakeside
and Sawyer (616-469-0977). More than 50 dealers have crammed their wares into
this building’s fluorescent-lit corridors, and it’s a great place to go
rummaging for old dressers, silverware, pottery and off-kilter collectibles.
For nostalgia’s sake, Amy and I returned to the Union Pier Antique Mall
(9300 Union Pier Road; 616-469-2555), which seems to have a knack for turning
up specimens of Victorian furniture so ornate and hulking that they’d inspire
nightmares if you stared at them long enough.
Further out from Union Pier but decidedly worth the 15-minute drive is the
new Springdale store, located at 19 S. Elm St. in neighboring Three Oaks
(616-756-9896). Owner Jim Toler has done a fantastic job renovating an old
bowling alley (even leaving in one of the lanes) to showcase his collection of
vintage ’40s and ’50s furnishings by Heywood-Wakefield.
Rails from the past
It’s also free to visit the New Buffalo Rail Museum, open on weekends until
3 p.m. The self-guided tour takes about 20 minutes, and includes a walk
through a restored Pullman troop car.
Not far away on Buffalo Street (which connects easily with the Red Arrow
Highway), we spotted what was once a ranch house, but now the home of the Wow
Art Gallery. Owners Rick Ott and Angela Reichert have stuffed the home with
eye-catching, engaging artworks.
New Buffalo’s Oink’s is a required stop for any fan of both great
confection and architecture best described as Modern Knick-Knack. My chocolate
shake was so thick it took me twice the normal time to drink, which also meant
more time to peruse shelves crammed to bursting with rusty blenders and
stuffed porkers.
After 20 minutes, I waddled out feeling bloated but triumphant, greeted by
an archway that said “MAY THE OINK BE WITH YOU.”
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Lodging (two nights, bed and breakfast) …….. $389
Meals …………………………………… $125
Gasoline …………………………………. $10
Tolls …………………………………….. $5
Total …………………………………… $529
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Union Pier, Mich., is about 70 miles from downtown Chicago. Take the Dan
Ryan Expressway (Interstate Highway 94) east to the Chicago Skyway (Interstate
Highway 90), continue east on the Indiana Toll Road, then reconnect with
eastbound I-94. Union Pier is just over the Michigan border (Exit 6).
LODGING
Inn at Union Pier, 9708 Berrien St., Union Pier, MI 49129; 616-469-4700;
www.innatunionpier.com. Housed in a restored 1920s hotel, this 16-room B&B
serves complimentary wine, popcorn and cookies at night. Amenities include an
outdoor hot tub and bicycles. Rooms run $150-$225 a night plus tax. There are
other inns and B&Bs nearby.
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DINING
Blue Plate Cafe, Red Arrow Highway, Union Pier ; 469-2370. A lunch or
brunch visit must be strategically planned, as the Blue Plate closes 3 p.m.
daily, 2 p.m. Sundays. But if you’re not staying at a B&B, the Blue Plate is
great consolation, featuring can’t-miss items like banana French toast and the
gringo griddle (pan-roasted black beans, potatoes, peppers, corn and onions).
No credit cards.
Red Arrow Roadhouse, 15710 Red Arrow Highway, Union Pier; 469-3939
redarrowroadhouse.com. This roadhouse features Southwestern and classic
American dishes, done with just the right dash of resort-town flair. No
reservations; be prepared to wait on weekends.
Jenny’s, 15460 Red Arrow Highway, Lakeside; 469-6545. Head northeast on the
Red Arrow Highway and look literally for the fork in the road–a hulking
utensil prop marking the spot of this wonderful fine dining establishment.
Redamak’s, 616 E. Buffalo St., New Buffalo; 469-4522. Housed in a
knotty-pine room that resembles a summer camp mess hall, Redamak’s is a fun,
ever-bustling local institution, claiming to serve “the hamburger that made
New Buffalo famous.” No credit cards.
ATTRACTIONS
New Buffalo Railroad Museum, 530 S. Whittaker St.; 469-5409. Housed in a
replica of the original Pere Marquette Railroad depot, this museum traces the
rail history of New Buffalo and the surrounding communities. Open weekdays 9
a.m.-5 p.m., weekends 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Free.
Wow Art Gallery, 529 E. Buffalo St., New Buffalo; 469-1938. An amusing,
intriguing collection of modern art in a restored, souped-up ranch house.
Oink’s, 227 W. Buffalo St., New Buffalo; 469-3535. For 10 years, owner
Roger Vink has scoured garage sales and antique malls for trinkets related to
two pet themes–ice cream and pigs. Look up and you’ll see dozens of salvaged
ice cream scoops stuck on the ceiling.
Heart of the Vineyard Winery, 10983 Hills Road, Baroda; 800-716-9463.
INFORMATION
Harbor Country Chamber of Commerce, 800-362-7251; or Web site
www.harborcountry.org.
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Lou Carlozo’s email address is [email protected].