1134 W. Argyle St.
773-769-1254
Hours: 9 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Fri-Wed.; closed Thurs.
Credit cards: V, M
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
The delectable roast ducks, chickens and barbecued pork hanging in the window beckon diners. But the slightly grubby interior is not much to write home about in this 14-year-old eatery. Takeout customers wait at the front counter watching cooks wield their magic cleavers on meats to go. Around the corner, dine-in customers gather in the simple, airy 18-table dining room. Specials, written in English and Chinese on Styrofoam plates, are tacked on pale blue walls.
On the plate
A menu of 240 Cantonese and Hong Kong-style dishes focuses on noodles, barbecued meats and seafood. It includes 25 noodle soups, 28 seafood dishes, 18 rice combo plates (all for less than $5) and eight dishes with barbecued meat fanned over rice (all less than $4) that just might be the best bargain in the city.
At your service
They’re fast and friendly, not polished. They are cool about accommodating extra diners at the table and even bringing out a knife and plates for birthday cakes.
Second helpings
Won ton and noodle soup pairs comforting chicken broth with pork and shrimp dumplings. Fish fillet with broccoli on rice features a dome of rice topped with plenty of ginger-scented sole and Chinese broccoli. Crispy-skinned roasted duck and soy sauce chicken are tender and juicy. The restaurant’s signature sweet and salty barbecued pork on rice is almost always a winner. Watercress and pork soup is also excellent.
Take a pass
We don’t care much for the super-fatty roast pork. The salted hard-cooked eggs have been way too salty on occasion. Although a Chinese friend swears the beef with chow fun noodles is the best he has had in the world, we found them greasy.
Thirst quenchers
Pots of tea are plentiful but the restaurant also serves bottles of domestic and imported beers as well as soy milk and canned sodas.
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Extras
Sea bass specials can be excellent. Most rice dishes come with a portion of terrific Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce and half of a hard-cooked egg that has been steeped in salt water.
Price range
Soups, $2.75 for a single bowl to $12 for duck soup for five. Appetizers and sides, $2.50-$6.50. Rice plates with seafood, $4-$4.50. Rice plates with roasted meats, $3.75. Drinks, 75 cents for soda to $2.25 for imported beer. Seafood main courses start at $8.
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Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.