A. From November through May, the rain-soaked Serengeti teems with wildlife, feeding on lush vegetation and slaking thirst at abundant water holes. We’re talking 1.3 million wildebeests, a quarter million burchell’s zebras, a similar number of thomson’s and grant’s gazelles, plus jackals, hyenas, ostriches, baboons and all our favorite feline predators, from lions to cheetahs.
Early in June, the rains stop, and the wildebeests and some zebras begin moving northward toward the still-wet Masai Mara Game Preserve in Kenya. The single-file migration of nearly 2 million creatures is the most famous aspect of the Serengeti.
Q. So if we get there after June will the plain be empty?
A. Not at all. This is the best game-watching area in Africa, all year, because it has a huge population of animals that never migrate–including thousands of resident zebras and almost any other truly wild creature that might come to mind.
Q. Is severe heat a problem?
A. The animals adapt, and humans usually are shepherded by guides and tour companies. (I used Ranger Safaris, based in Arusha.) Breezes actually cool things off, especially at night. Drink lots of water, take the usual precautions against direct sunlight and wear lightweight fabrics. This close to the equator, temperatures vary only a bit–from the low 70s in June and July to around 85 in December and January. It’s on a high plain, 2,000-3,000 feet above sea level, which can cool the temperatures somewhat.
More Top Picks Best Aviator Sunglasses For Small Face Women
Q. Are there some animals we won’t likely see?
A. As noted above, the wildebeests move on in dry season. The black rhinoceros is rare all over the continent. Cheetahs keep their distance, but virtually all other animals ignore the safari trucks and show themselves regularly.
Q. Can we do this trip on the cheap, or would that impose severe hardship?
A. The park offers 30 scattered camp sites ($20 to $40 per person, depending on facilities) for hardy travelers. They should bring in everything they need, including water. Four lodges cater to the tenderfoot with units ranging from comfortable to luxurious. Even more cushy are the three tented camps, where the “tents” (12 to 16 per site) are more like 5-star hotel suites with cuisine to match.
Q. How is the Serengeti different from other big game parks?
A. Millions of hoofed mammals pack the grassy plains in a scene reminiscent of the days before the severe killoffs by hunters and poachers that plagued other wildlife concentrations. No other park in Africa matches the sheer numbers.
Q. Is a safari dangerous?
A. People who stay in the safari vehicle should have no problems. Armed guards patrol around the lodges and camps in case a predator comes looking for an exotic meal. Elephants and rhinos occasionally charge an annoying Land Rover, but almost always, they back away. Safety? It’s a piece of cake. Do not, however, drink the tap water.
Q. How about for the animals?
A. Safari parties have been going through the Serengeti for so long that the creatures take them for granted. Lions sleep peacefully beside the roads; giraffes continue their placid treetop grazing. You will feel invisible and the animals will be fearing only their natural enemy–which no longer is us.
Q. When is the best time of day to see the wildlife?
A. Early morning and late afternoon, when temperatures are cooler and the sunlight isn’t so intense. This is why all the lodges have swimming pools.
Q. What are those lacy-looking trees sprinkled through the landscape?
A. Widely spaced umbrella acacias constitute the signature plant life in the otherwise grassy Serengeti. To us, they offer visual relief from miles of flatland and rolling plain. To giraffes, they’re lunch.
Q. Doesn’t the park have some weird rock formations as well?
A. They’re called kopje (pronounced copy), an Afrikaner term for ancient granite rock that has managed to survive the volcanic lava and ash that leveled the plain. Now, the sturdy boulders fend off the forces of erosion and serve as cool little islands where plants thrive and animals find shelter from fire and flood.
Q. What inoculations and other medical precautions do I need to take for a visit to Africa?
A. You may be asked to produce a valid yellow fever vaccination certificate, especially if the itinerary includes Zanzibar (which has been part of Tanzania since 1964 but makes its own rules). Also be sure to have tetanus and hepatitis inoculations up to date. Malaria medication is strongly recommended. Consult a physician to determine the type best for you. Information also is available at the Web site of the Centers for Disease Control at www.cdc.gov/travel.
Q. Do I need any special visas to go to the Serengeti?
A. Tanzania requires a visa and a passport. The visa costs $50 and may be obtained from the Tanzanian Embassy, 2139 R Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008; 202-939-6125. Or contact the Tanzanian Permanent Mission to the United Nations, 205 E. 42nd St., 13th floor, New York, NY 10017; 212-972-9160.
Q. How do I join a safari or get more information?
A. You might start browsing the Web. The Tanzania Tourist Bureau maintains a lively site at www.tanzania-web.com. Or contact the above-mentioned consular offices. Tour operators are the best way to go. Tanzanian Tourism recommends several and so can most travel agents with some knowledge of Africa. It’s also possible to arrange safaris while in Arusha, but steer clear of touts and seek out reputable operators like Ranger Safaris, one of many large companies with strong ties in Tanzania.