On the western edge of the Illinois prairie in a bend of the Mississippi
River once stood a city of celestial light. The Mormons called it Nauvoo, old
Hebrew for “beautiful place.”
It’s hard to believe this peaceful town of 1,100 was at one time not only
the center of the Mormon world but also the largest city in Illinois, as well
as a place of great civil unrest. Located some 245 miles southwest of Chicago,
Nauvoo is not easy to get to — you must want to come here — but it is well
worth the long and meandering journey.
Five thousand Mormons arrived in Nauvoo in early 1839. In those days it
bore the unlikely name of Commerce, a misnomer since the village harbored
little more than a few scattered souls in the midst of swampy wetlands. The
Mormons drained the soggy ground and wasted no time in creating a livable
community, gobbling up parcels of land in the process. Their purpose was to
create an American Eden, where they could worship as they pleased, free from
the intervention of obtrusive outsiders.
Nauvoo was a self-sufficient city-state, with its own form of municipal
government, system of schools (including a university) and even its own
militia. Its unusual status was largely the result of the efforts of its
charismatic leader, Joseph Smith.
The Mormons courted controversy. As the church’s membership grew, so did
its opposition from the non-Mormon element. Perhaps mainstream society’s
attitude toward this most American of religions has much to do with the
faith’s unconventional origins and its equally uncommon beliefs, including
polygamy (which has since been abandoned).
Smith was a passionate man, who made enemies with great frequency. His life
ended abruptly some 18 miles east of Nauvoo in the county seat of Carthage. On
June 27, 1844, Joseph and his brother Hyrum were killed by a mob while being
held in the Carthage County Jail for having ordered the destruction of a
newspaper facility of a rival Mormom group. The jail has been converted to a
museum and visitor center.
Nauvoo has two major museums devoted to the Mormon faith. The Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS) runs a visitor center. Housed in a
handsome modern red brick building, it features historical exhibits on the
origins of Nauvoo as well as a 15-foot by 15-foot scale model of the town as
it appeared during its heyday, in 1846. Do take a few moments to savor the
peaceful sculpture garden in the back, “Monument to Women,” which celebrates
women’s achievements.
Meanwhile, an offshoot of the Mormon church, the Reorganized Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (RLDS), operates the Joseph Smith Historic
Center. The center is a fine starting point for visiting the Smith Homestead
and the Mansion House, the latter built in 1841 as a hotel for visitors to
early Nauvoo and also the home of Smith and his family. The adjoining cemetery
is the final resting place of Joseph and Emma Smith, Hyrum Smith, Lucy Mack
Smith and other family members.
The best way to gain a better understanding of the Mormon mindset is to
walk the streets of Nauvoo’s historic district. Free guided tours from the LDS
visitors center stop at more than two dozen restored sites, including the
Printing Office, the Brigham Young Home and the Cultural and Masonic Hall. The
latter was not only the cultural center of town in old Nauvoo, where church
and business meetings, funerals, court sessions and social events were held,
but it also housed the police and headquarters for the Nauvoo Legion, or local
militia. The Lucy Mack Smith Home was once the home of Joseph Smith’s mother.
There is also a replica of a blacksmith shop, bakery (where you can sample
complimentary ginger cookies), drug store, tinsmith shop, post office and
general store, gun shop, pioneer log home and school, and a bootmaking and
shoemaking shop. Free demonstrations of early pioneer crafts are given, such
as candle making, barrel making and pottery throwing.
If you don’t have time or lack the inclination to take a guided tour, the
Uptown Information Center on Illinois Highway 96 in the heart of town carries
a cassette-tape tour.
Undoubtedly the glory of old Nauvoo belonged to the great temple that stood
on the town’s highest hill. The excavation of the Nauvoo Temple began in the
autumn of 1840, the cornerstone was laid in April 1841 and the building
finally dedicated on May 1, 1846.
The temple was used for religious conferences, meetings and sacred
ceremonies. Constructed of native gray limestone, its spire rose 165 feet,
making it the tallest structure west of Cincinnati and north of St. Louis.
The temple did not stand long, however — only a scant two years. It was
partially destroyed by arsonists on the evening of Oct. 9, 1848, when the
flames from its all-wood interior lit up the night sky. Further damage
resulted in May 1850 when a tornado tore into town. But now Nauvoo is
preparing for another resurrection of sorts, for there are plans afoot to
rebuild the temple.
There are a few reminders in Nauvoo of the French Icarians who followed the
Mormons after their departure and who mounted a short-lived attempt at
communal living. The French Icarian Museum promotes the preservation of French
heritage in America. Another remnant of Nauvoo’s Icarian past is Baxter’s
Village, the closest thing that Nauvoo has to a mall. The “village” consists
of various arts and crafts shops, a bed-and-breakfast and a winery that is run
by the great-great grandson of its founder Emile Baxter, who came to Nauvoo in
1855 to join the Icarians.
Additional arts and crafts can be found along the main street in Temple
House Village, a series of log cabin-like buildings that were left behind from
a movie called “The Legacy,” which the Mormons made about a dozen years ago.
Visit the Kiln Shed for examples of Nauvoo pottery. Bits-n-Pieces specializes
in geodes (small stones with crystal-filled cavities), sculpture, raku pottery
and ceramic sculpture (mostly of the abstract and expressionist variety). Judy
Jones Pottery and Art Gallery stocks plastic Nauvoo sun faces cast from
original clay works, as well as sunstone magnets, key holders, ornaments,
chimes and even night lights. Especially striking though are the lovely pieces
of art created from Mississippi River driftwood by Kathy Johnson, a retired
local art teacher. For bookworms, the Old House Bookstore at 1250 Mulholland
St. is a great place to bone up on your reading of all things Mormon.
Several antique malls line Mulholland Street, including Old Nauvoo Antique
Mall and Ruh’s Hardware and Antiques. At 2592 Sycamore St., Rita’s Romantiques
also stocks collectibles as well as walnut and oak furniture.
Don’t leave Nauvoo without sampling the town’s champion — and very tasty
— blue cheese, which ranked the best in its class at the 1999 national U.S.
Cheese Contest. It’s so good that even non-blue cheese lovers will be able to
appreciate its creamy texture and piquant taste. You can find it on sale in
local shops and restaurants.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Lodging (two nights) ….. $184
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Meals ………………… $65
Gas ………………….. $41
Total ……………….. $290
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Nauvoo is about 245 miles southwest of Chicago. Take Interstate Highway 80
west to Interstate Highway 74, just east of Moline. Proceed south to
Galesburg. Follow U.S. Highway 34 to Illinois Highway 94 and then take
Illinois Highway 96 west into Nauvoo.
DINING
Grandpa John’s Cafe (1255 Mulholland St., Nauvoo) specializes in homemade
pies and has an old-fashioned soda fountain.
Hotel Nauvoo Restaurant (1290 Mulholland St.) was built in 1840. This fully
renovated gem boasts six dining rooms that can accommodate a total of 350
people. The dining rooms are open from mid-March to Nov. 20. Forty-item salad
bar and buffet served daily except Monday from 5 to 8.30 p.m.; Sunday from 11
a.m. to 3 p.m.
Nauvoo Mill & Bakery (1530 Mulholland St.) features homemade sandwiches
served in the small cafe and also carries Nauvoo blue cheese, whole wheat
baked goods, gourmet jams and jellies.
New China (519 Main St., Keokuk, Iowa) is located across the Mississippi
River and serves Mandarin and Szechwan cuisine. Lunch is served from 11 a.m.
to 2 p.m., dinner from 4.30 to 9 p.m. daily. Closed Monday.
LODGING
Ancient Pines Bed & Breakfast (2015 Parley St.; 217-453-2767) is a
turn-of-the-century home that is looking a bit worse for wear located across
the road from Baxter’s Village. Highlights include stained glass windows,
pressed metal ceilings, clawfoot tub, baby grand piano. It has three rooms
with shared baths for $55 per night, including a full breakfast.
Hotel Nauvoo (1290 Mulholland St.; 217-453-2211) was built in 1840 as a
residence. This historic and charming inn has eight rooms, all with private
bath. Rates range from $49 to $59 per night based on double occupancy.
Mississippi Memories (1 Riverview Terrace,; 217-453-2771) is a lovely B&B
located 2 1/2 miles south of Nauvoo on Illinois 96 and run by Marge and Dean
Starr. Two large decks overlook the Mississippi. Most rooms have river views.
There are four rooms: two with a queen-size bed and private bath go for $95
each; one with a double bed and private bath for $85; and one with double bed
and a private bath down the hall for $69.
Nauvoo Family Motel (1875 Mulholland; 217-453-6527; reservations only
800-416-4470) has 66 rooms. Rates average about $60. The gift shop stocks
Mormon books, tapes, videos, jewelry and Mormon fine and folk art.
Mormon-owned.
VISITORS CENTERS AND MUSEUMS
Old Carthage Jail and Visitors Center (Route 136, Carthage; 217-357-2989)
has a restored jail, visitors center and memorial gardens. Open Monday through
Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday from 10.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Free.
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints Visitors Center (1295
Mulholland St., Nauvoo; 217-453-2237) is open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through
Friday and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. Free.
French Icarian Museum (2205 E. Parley St.; 217-453-2281 or 217-453-2437) is
open from 1 to 4 p.m. from April 1 to Nov. 1 or by appointment other dates.
Joseph Smith Historic Center (149 Water St.; 217-453-2246) is open daily
from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from 1 to 5 p.m. Free.
ADVANCE PLANNING
For background reading before your visit to Nauvoo, you may want to pick up
“Nauvoo: Kingdom on the Mississippi” by Robert Bruce Flanders and “Les
Icarians: The Utopian Dream in Europe and America” by Robert P. Sutton. Both
are published by the University of Illinois Press.
INFORMATION
Nauvoo Tourism, P.O. Box 41, Nauvoo; 217-453-6648.
Western Illinois Tourism Council, 107 E. Carroll Street, Macomb;
309-837-7460.