Friends traveling together can be a cautious dance until you’ve practiced the steps a few times. You find out who snores and who can’t tolerate it, who must have the aisle seat and who takes an hour getting dressed in the morning.
Simply put, traveling together can spoil a friendship — or make it stronger. It requires constant negotiation, patience and a sense of humor.
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We like spas. And April, one of those lagging months before summer vacation, was the perfect time for a rejuvenating retreat. The Heartland Spa, a health and fitness facility nestled in the heart of Illinois farm country an hour and a half away, was ideal for a quick getaway.
To make the trip even more relaxing, we decided to take the Amtrak train down to Gilman. (Don’t worry about getting a window seat, there’s not much to see after you get out of Chicago.)
If you crave junk food, the train’s snack car is the last chance to stock up. Once you reach the Heartland, everything’s low-fat, low-cal, and there’s not a store for miles. It’s kind of like being in a pricey halfway house.
A Heartland staff member meets guests at the train station, a necessity because there is no other means of transportation to and from the spa, located between the tiny town of Gilman and the tinier community of Crescent City.
The 15-minute drive, along a narrow road and then-barren cornfields, was a good indicator of what was to come. Formerly a dairy farm, the 32-acre spa is rustic and unpretentious. It is housed in two buildings — a country manor where lodging and most activities take place and the barn, for pool and spa services. Centered on the private Kam Lake, the environment is beautiful and peaceful, with sprawling green lawns, trees and nature walks.
We shared the $840 weekend package, which includes lodging, meals for two, one massage per person and all the exercise you can handle. The spa provides toiletries, sweats, shorts, T-shirts, raingear and a cozy terry-cloth robe, in most sizes.
If you’re not interested in fitness, the Heartland isn’t for you. Its wellness philosophy centers on wholesome eating, exercise and renewal of the spirit. In the winter, it offers cross-country skiing. When the weather is nice, there’s fishing and paddle boating. Gym equipment, however, is sparse and outdated. Ride one of their bikes or jog around the outdoor track.
There are free seminars on nutrition, meditation and weight training. A registered dietitian is available for personal consultations. The Saturday massage is a perfect ending for the first full day of activities, which begins with a 7 a.m. walk, followed by step aerobics, aqua aerobics, tai chi and yoga, among other things.
The one massage included in the package isn’t enough. Bring extra money for the combo, a must-have body scrub and herbal wrap. Other treatments, including facials, pedicures and hair salon services, range from $16 to $95.
The spa was at its peak capacity with 28 guests the weekend we were there, which has disadvantages. The exercise/yoga room is too small for large groups; it takes longer for the kitchen staff — an accomplished professional chef and a group of high school kids who serve — to get the meals on the table; and if your beds happen to be uncomfortable, as were ours, too bad. Most guests come in pairs because of the weekend rate. Men are welcome, but rarely attend.
The meals were low-fat and delicious. No red meat is served, and calories are kept at 1,200 a day for women and 1,500 a day for men. The highlight was the Sunday breakfast buffet, which included blueberry pancakes, fresh fruit and juices. Gourmet dinners consisted of grilled salmon, grilled chicken, steamed vegetables, rice and a low-fat dessert.
Because our return train didn’t leave until 7:30 p.m. (it was 30 minutes late), we stayed at the spa long after the regular 1:30 p.m. checkout. Had it been a normal Sunday, when new guests are arriving, there would have been a full schedule of activities available. As it turned out, this was a rare weekend when no one was scheduled to arrive until Monday, so most of the 55 employees went home after lunch. We lounged and rented a $4 movie. A cook came in to prepare a disappointing dinner of salad, canned tuna and sorbet for dinner for $10 each.
When we returned to Chicago Sunday night, we were rested and perhaps a pound or two lighter. But most important, we were still friends.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Heartland Spa (two nights, including meals, activities and one massage
each) ………………….. $840
Round trip on Amtrak ……… $70
Extra Sunday meal ………… $20
Pay TV movie: …………….. $4
Total ………………….. $934
IF YOU GO
– GETTING THERE
The Heartland Spa is near Gilman, Ill., about 85 miles south of Chicago.
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By train: Book early, because Amtrak (800-872-7245) makes only one trip a day, leaving Union Station at 4 p.m. and returning from Gilman at 7:30 p.m. The train also stops in Homewood and Kankakee. Another reason to book early is that there are a limited number of tickets for just $10 each way. We had to pay the maximum, $20 one-way, but got a $5 discount on the return.
By car: From the Chicago area, take Interstate Highway 57 south to Gilman/Chatsworth Exit 283. At the top of the ramp, turn left (east) onto U.S. Highway 24. When you reach the four-way stop, turn left again to continue along U.S. 24. Go six miles to the Camp Wahanaha sign, turn right (south) on to County Road 1220E. Continue for two miles and turn left at the Heartland sign. The driveway to the Heartland is on the immediate right.
– THE BASICS
Modest rooms with twin beds, bathroom with shower only. Our weekend package for two at $420 per night included Friday dinner, three meals on Saturday, breakfast and lunch on Sunday, daily snacks, exercise programs and one massage each; weekday rates for two are $378. Single rates are $340 weekdays and $378 on weekends, but if you’ll accept an assigned roommate the rate drops to $238 weekdays, $265 weekends.
– INFORMATION
Call the Heartland Spa at 800-545-HTLD (4853) or write: Heartland Spa, Kam Lake Estate, 1237 E. 1600 North Road, Gilman, Ill. 60938. Web site: www.heartlandspa.com