The stagnant restaurant scene in the south burbs is starting to stir, thanks to a handful of distinctive new eateries that dare to offer more than pizza or glorified coffee shop fare. Some are ethnic, one is a trendy brewpub and others are surprisingly innovative.
One of the most promising of these ventures is Balagio Ristorante, a boisterous Homewood trattoria that isn’t afraid to put a little pizzazz in its pomodoro or a bit of verve in its vermicelli.
That’s not to say that Balagio, which opened in November, sacrifices quality for gimmickry. Owner Michael Galderio, who cut his culinary teeth at Ciao Ristorante in Chicago Heights, puts the emphasis where it belongs — on comfortable surroundings, attentive service, fresh ingredients and authentic recipes (though he is not averse to spiking the menu with a razzle-dazzle special or two).
Galardio has transformed the storefront into an Italian garden with trompe l’oeil stone walls, flowers and verandas, all united by a grapes-and-greens theme. When you’re seated, you’ll notice that even the waitstaff’s tapestry vests are color-coordinated to blend with the decor.
Don’t let the pleasing decor lull you into filling up on the warm, crusty bread dipped in a pool of garlic-herb infused olive oil and sprinkled with grated parmesan; you won’t have room for the treats that follow. Big mistake.
The antipasti are an oxymoron because despite their “Old World” billing, their clear flavors are refreshingly contemporary, a result of the chef’s straightforward preparations. Sausage and peppers, a tired cliche elsewhere, is a melange of perfectly sauteed red and green peppers and lean, delicately seasoned sausage. Steamed, plump mussels are elevated by an aggressive — but not scorching — red sauce, and calamari fritti are crisp-tender morsels of squid with nary a trace of grease.
Pastas are made to order and consistently excellent. Highlights include ravioli marinara, two-inch-square noodle pillows filled with fluffy herbed cheese in a sauce redolent with fresh tomato; radiatore arrabiata, crimped, squat noodles drenched in a boldly spiced red sauce and manicotti fiorentini, homemade al dente tubes filled with spinach and ricotta and baked in marinara sauce.
Entrees come with salad or soup; opt for the latter. Balagio’s homemade minestrone, a robust concoction heavy with tomatoes and mini pasta is sublime; the escarole chicken broth is a bit lighter and trendier.
Follow the soup course with pollo tagliato, a confidently seasoned half-chicken that’s roasted till crisp on the outside but tender and juicy underneath. The garlic and wine sauce adds oomph without killing the meat’s flavor. Most entrees are accompanied by a vegetable- and herb-kissed, roasted potato wedges. A “don’t-miss” choice is the lobster tail on a bed of spinach, ringed with red-pepper coulis. The ample, 9-ounce tail is tender and sweet, a beautiful match for the sauce.
Desserts are ho-hum except for the Balagio creme. This ultra rich treat looks like a big ice-cream sundae, but it’s really two huge scoops of a dense, mousse-like concoction layered with strawberry sauce, topped with whipped cream and garnished with a crunchy Italian lady finger.
Balagio’s wine list is a thoughtful mix of respectable Italian and California bottles with a few French sparklers thrown in — many are available by the glass.
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Balagiof
(Three forks)
18042 Martin Ave., Homewood
More Top Picks Pots Indoor
708-957-1650
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: 8.95-18.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible, carryout available, free parking
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on an anonymous visit by a Tribune staff member. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.