PEOPLE-RICH HONDURAS

Through the 1980s Honduras was known in the United States mostly as the staging ground for the Reagan administration’s proxy war against the Sandinistas in neighboring Nicaragua. Scuba divers had been coming to the Bay Islands, especially Roatan, for years, but few other tourists found their way down here. Now, the armed conflict in Nicaragua and the long-lived civil war in El Salvador, Honduras’ neighbor to the west, have ended, and more travelers are finding their way to this poor but friendly country.

During those years of conflict Honduras was doing more than just playing host to foreign military forces: since 1980 the government has been setting aside land for national parks and wildlife refuges so now the number of sanctuaries has reached 100. Throughout the country unspoiled cloud forests and jungles are accessible by boat or hiking trails, and because tourism numbers have been so low, and facilities have not been extensively developed, the opportunities to see a wide variety of wildlife are good.

One of the easiest parks to reach is La Tigra National Park, just 13 miles north of Tegucigalpa, the capital city. The park is a magnificent cloud forest full of exotic birds and home to monkeys, pumas and wild pigs.

Less accessible but more rewarding is the tropical forest of La Mosquitia on the northeast coast. Few roads lead into this low-lying region of mangrove swamps, savannas, rivers and lagoons, but small planes fly in to remote landing strips and boats ply the inland waterways. The Rio Platano Biosphere Reserve is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is part of the largest wilderness area in Central America. The ecosystems here are diverse and support numerous endangered species, including the manatee, jaguar and harpy eagle.

One of Central America’s most spectacular Mayan sites is Copan in western Honduras. The site is best in the early morning, before the crowds arrive.

The town of San Pedro Sula is the gateway to Roatan and the Bay Islands, but it carries the dubious distinction of being the AIDS/HIV capital of Central America. In fact, Honduras has more AIDS cases than the rest of Central America combined. Anyone contemplating a sexual encounter here should keep this in mind.

Road travel should be done during the day as much as possible, and travel to border areas should be undertaken with caution. Bandit groups have been operating near the Salvadoran border and incidents have also occurred near the Nicaraguan border. Crime in major cities increased last year to the point that the military was called out to help police patrol the streets of Tegucigalpa to prevent bank robberies. Travelers should keep a low profile and leave valuables at home.

Worldwide updates

Bangladesh: February elections, which were boycotted by the opposition and naturally won by the ruling party, were marred by violence that has continued since the election. Tensions remain high and unrest is likely to continue. Avoid large gatherings.

England: The IRA ended a 17-month cease-fire Feb. 9 with a bombing in London’s business district, followed a few days later by the announcement of another bomb in London that was discovered and defused. A third attack, on Feb. 18, destroyed a bus in London’s entertainment district, killing the bomb courier and injuring nine others. Attacks in London are likely to continue unless the British government agrees to peace talks that include Sinn Fein, the IRA’s political wing. The peace process stalled because the IRA refused to disarm as a condition of joining the talks, and the British government refused to accept parallel talks on IRA disarmament while the peace talks proceeded, a position advanced by the Irish government and U.S. intermediaries. Peace negotiations and a renewed cease-fire are still possible, but only with compromise. Meanwhile, further incidents in London cannot be ruled out.

Gabon: The deadly Ebola virus has surfaced in a village in the northeast near the border with Congo, where 13 of 20 people who helped kill and prepare a chimpanzee for a feast have died. The government has warned people about touching dead or sick forest animals, which carry the virus. If traveling in the jungles of Africa, avoid physical contact with animals.

Israel: A suicide bombing ripped apart a bus in downtown Jerusalem Feb. 25, killing 25 people. A second bombing less than an hour later in Ashkelon killed two. The incidents occurred just two days after the government lifted an 11-day closure of the West Bank and Gaza Strip because of information that Islamic terrorists were planning a bus bombing. Two militant groups, Hamas and Islamic Jihad, had vowed revenge for the assassination of Yehyia Ayyash, a bomb maker nicknamed “The Engineer,” who was killed in the Gaza Strip on Jan. 5, allegedly by Israeli security agents. Ayyash is believed to have been responsible for at least seven bombs used in suicide missions for the last two years. Some authorities fear that this incident may signal a coming wave of bombings, and further attacks cannot be ruled out. There is little one can do to guard against such attacks, but steering clear of bus stands and stations may be prudent.

Nicaragua: Several incidents in recent months indicate that former guerrillas have turned to simple banditry in rural areas. On Feb. 21 an armed band attacked a European Union convoy and three Nicaraguans were killed; on Jan. 25 the motorcade of a presidential candidate was attacked and one police escort was killed; a landowner was kidnapped recently and killed when a $4,000 ransom demand was not met; an armed band of 25 men blocked a highway and burned four buses near the town of Rama. The men usually wear fatigues and carry automatic weapons, and often rob without impunity. Consult with local authorities and follow press reports for areas where these bandits have been active before driving through rural areas.

Northern Ireland: Armed British troops resumed patrols on the streets of Belfast for the first time in 11 months following the Feb. 18 IRA bombing in London. Tensions have increased since the IRA cease-fire ended, but no incidents have occurred here. It’s possible that the IRA will concentrate on London as its target in an attempt to pressure the British government into a compromise on multiparty peace talks, but retaliatory attacks by Ulster paramilitary groups cannot be ruled out. Keep a low profile and avoid neighborhoods that have seen troubles in the past.

Sri Lanka: The country is on edge following a suicide truck bombing in the heart of Colombo in early February by the Tamil Tigers. Schools have been closed temporarily because of fears that terrorists may target a Sinhalese school. Security has been tightened in the capital.

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Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the U.S., contact a Passport Agency office or the State Department in Washington; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy or consulate.