Governments haven’t quite figured out how to do it in the Middle East, but Samara Restaurant in Morton Grove has blended the skills of an Assyrian, an Egyptian and an Israeli Arab to produce some good eating.
Samara is a real restaurant on a street awash with all the standard fast-food joints. For the same money you’d deposit under the golden arches, Samara will give you fresh food with a distinctive taste-pretty fast, too.
Middle Eastern cooking puts less emphasis on meat than American cooking, so, theoretically at least, you’ll be more likely to get a healthy meal here than most places. And the liberal use of herbs and spices means it will be more interesting as well.
Samara’s appetizers are mainly vegetarian. They’re all good, but when ordering for a group, read the menu descriptions carefully or you’ll end up with too many similar tastes.
It’s in the entrees that Samara really shines. The dishes are distinctive and the portions are generous for the price, which includes rice, pita bread and soup (lentil or onion) or salad.
Especially tasty are the kefta kabobs ($6.50), cigar-shaped patties of beef and lamb with onions, tomatoes and green peppers. The lamb shishkebab ($9.50) has lots of lean meat and is cooked just right.
If you’ve had gyros, you’ve had the fast-food version of shawarma. But instead of mystery meat on a rotisserie, this dish consists of thin slices of real beef and lamb nestled on a bed of onions and greens. Very satisfying.
Among the chicken dishes is a neat change of pace-chunks of breast meat sauteed with sesame seeds and served on a bread salad ($6.95).
There’s also a nice version of hot chicken salad with a pleasant sweet dressing.
There is a full bar at Samara, but if you really want to go native, the beverage to order is dawee, a yogurt drink whipped up fresh daily by chef Muien Hamed.
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And if really fast food is still on your mind, most entrees are available as pita sandwiches from $3 to $4.50.
Samara Restaurant, 7168 W. Dempster St., Morton Grove, 708-470-0215. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat., noon-9 p.m. Sun., closed Mon. A, DS, M, V.