The first time I ever saw a whale up close at sea, I was surprised most by its smell-a fetid, briny mixture reeking of ocean depths and mysterious origins.
But it was the sound I’ll never forget-a great whoosh as the mammoth humpback whale suddenly broke the surface of the water.
She moved with the slow steady grace of a ballerina, her calf in obedient pursuit.
It was only their backs I saw. But it was breathtaking. And with it came a keen sensation of privilege-witnessing these monarchs of the sea bringing their cycle of life so suddenly to the surface.
On board the SS Universe in Alaska, Dr. Allan Schoenherr, a biologist from Fullerton College in Fullerton, Calif., was explaining to rapt railside passengers that the undersides of humpbacks’ tails bear distinct individual markings-like fingerprints. These markings can be clearly observed as they dive, their enormous tails poised upward. Since humpbacks are slow divers (and also can stay down for hours), naturalists can identify individuals year after year.
The annual journey of humpbacks (the fifth largest cetacean) takes them south from Alaska during December and May, to breed and nurse their young in warmer waters (as far south as Hawaii), and then back again in summer to their home in the north. As a result, cruise passengers get ample opportunity to see humpbacks almost year-round.
Pacific gray whales traverse 6,000 miles on their migration, from the Bering Sea to the lagoons in Mexico’s Baja Peninsula. The Baja region also is home to humpback, blue and killer whales which frequently can be seen throughout the Gulf of California.
Whales are not shy and are easily encountered, particularly during their migrations. Many whale-watchers actually have petted them. Schoenherr has even observed mating whales up close, and has some incredible photos to prove it.
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But you don’t need to be an intrepid adventurer or full-time researcher to see them. Just an animal lover will do.
Passengers can sight pods of whales from the comfortable decks of luxury liners or from small skiffs that get as close as arm’s length to 50-foot whales.
World Explorer’s Universe exclusively sails two-week Alaska cruises, June 5 through Aug. 28 starting at $2,395. A one-week trip, May 28 only, begins at $1,370.
Other cruise lines and ships that have whale-watching programs include American Hawaii Cruises, 800-765-7000; Holland America, 206-281-3535; and Cunard’s Sagafjord and Crown Dynasty, 800-221-4770.
Natural Habitat Wildlife Adventures, an independent tour operator, specializes in nature trips and conducts eight-day Baja whale-watches aboard the 14-passenger motor yacht the Don Jose. Call for details: 800-543-8917.