When tourists make a flying visit to Britain, they often insist on seeing London. The isle`s other capital, Scotland`s Edinburgh, might not rate a second thought, let alone a visit. Or if it does, it is often appended to a tour of England.
These travelers may not have fully considered Edinburgh`s rough beauty or its proximity to the sea and to the famous Highlands or its colorful history. Perhaps they just don`t have the time to give the city the attention it deserves.
This represents a departure from Edinburgh`s bloody history, when no self-respecting invaders would pass up a chance to plunder the place. The hordes return each August for the Edinburgh Festival, bearing credit cards instead of cannons, but for the rest of the year the tourist path is mostly beaten away from old, gray, mispronounced Edinburgh (say Ed-in-bur-rah).
The traveler who does wander north of the Borders invariably delights in the discovery of ”Scotia`s d`pling seat,” as Scottish bard Robert Burns called it, and finds that the best way to learn about an out-of-the-way place is to explore its own out-of-the-way places.
HISTORY
Let guidebooks extol the pleasures of Edinburgh Castle, which commands a view from all points of the city, and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, where Mary, Queen of Scots lived and where Queen Elizabeth II stays when she is in town.
The city`s past is laden with tales of villains and mysteries that still fascinate natives and visitors. The model for Robert Louis Stevenson`s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, Deacon Brodie, lived in infamy here, for example. Licensed, knowledgeable tour guides relate this and other notorious stories as they lead groups down the city`s ancient, winding streets, which lend themselves perfectly to a nighttime ramble.
One company offering such tours is Mercat Tours (661-4541). (The international access code, country and area phone code which must precede this and all other numbers listed here is 011-44-31.)
Old Town, as the name implies, formed the original city, beginning almost a millennium ago. Gladstone`s Land,, a six-story tenement, sits near the heart of it on the Royal Mile, providing a glimpse into how Edinburghers might have lived almost 400 years ago. The land, or block of apartments, dates from 1617 and has been restored by the National Trust for Scotland. For tour information, call 225-2424.
The Trust has done an equally fine job in younger New Town, across Princes Street Gardens: the Georgian House (225-2160), 7 Charlotte Square, shows how a middle-class family might have lived during Britain`s Regency period in the early 19th Century.
At the foot of Princes Street is Calton Hill, a fist of volcanic rock from whose crest a curious group of objects sprouts: a telescope-shaped building, an observatory and a row of Greek columns, to name a few. A climb to the top of the hill will reward the athletic and the curious; a splendid view of the city awaits, along with huge monuments scattered like a giant`s abandoned toys.
NIGHTLIFE
In 1935, local poet Edwin Muir wrote, ”Whether the Scottish people drink more than other peoples it would be impossible to say; but they give the impression of doing so.” Many Edinburghers like single-malt Scotch, while others go for cask-conditioned ale. Either way, they take their drink seriously and in rather large quantities.
Be prepared to consume. And bear in mind that pubs close at midnight, with last call often coming at 11:30 p.m., even on weekends.
Tourists sometimes find themselves drawn to the pubs along Rose Street, but a venture into a neighborhood watering hole takes no additional effort. For example, try a pint of bitter at Bennett`s Bar, next door to the King`s Theatre at 8 Leven St. The pressed-tin ceiling, stained glass and worn wooden barstools evoke a turn-of-the-century atmosphere. The Blue Blazer, 2 Spittal St., is a friendly corner tavern with a wide selection of whiskies. For a no- frills pub two blocks from the Royal Mile, try Black Bo`s, 57 Blackfriars St. The International Bar, near The Meadows at 15 Brougham Place, may sound like a spot for jetsetters, but it is as local as a pub can be. Regulars, who show up early for tables near the fireplace, know it as ”the IB.”
First-time visitors may notice that the only sounds in Scottish pubs are the murmur of conversation and the clinking of pint glasses. For those who`d prefer music, folk and jazz are on tap in many taverns. Local folksingers meet at the Green Tree (184 Cowgate) for informal jam sessions on Monday nights. Sandy Bells on Forest Road has Saturday-night and Sunday-afternoon folk performances, while Ceilidh House (9 Hunter Square, off the Royal Mile), has live acoustic music nightly. For jazz, try the Haymarket Bar, 1 Haymarket Terrace in the West End.
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Edinburgh doesn`t have the thriving club scene found in larger European cities, but dancers can swing into the night at the Venue (15-21 Calton Rd.). CULTURE
Art: Galleries selling antiques and traditional artwork are scattered throughout Edinburgh, but browsers looking for something a little more out of the ordinary will not be disappointed by the contemporary work found in places such as the Collective Gallery, 22-26 Cockburn St., and the Open Eye Gallery, 75 Cumberland St. Exhibited here are everything from abstract oil-and-pastel landscapes to wool-and-handmade-paper tapestries to jewelry and hats made from the wire of defunct televisions.
Theater: Drama lovers who feel they can forgo the King`s Theatre, a classic wedding cake of a playhouse, for something more unusual might want to see a show at the Traverse Theatre, 112 West Bow. This company has earned international acclaim for its skillful, flexible staging of new work.
RESTAURANTS
Reservations-or bookings as they`re called here-are encouraged. Some restaurants are closed on Sundays, and many do not serve late, so it is wise to telephone first.
Kalpna (667-9890), 2-3 St. Patrick Square, has been called one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Britain-and with reason. The specialty here, Gujerati and South Indian food, is prepared creatively and served cheerfully. Colorful prints enhance the cozy atmosphere.
The accent is authentically French at Chez Jules (225-7007), which is sandwiched into three rooms in Craig`s Close, just off trendy Cockburn Street. The heaping, well-prepared portions are good value for the money. If a romantic meal is the intent of the evening, ask for the candlelit north room; the other two well-lit dining rooms do double duty as passageways for the brisk, no-nonsense staff.
The elegant Howard Hotel (557-6515), 30 Great King St., is so discreet that only a brass plaque marks it among its neighbors in a row of Georgian townhouse residences in the New Town. Its restaurant, No. 36, is haunted mainly by well-dressed locals. Those tourists who thought that inventive Scottish fare must be a contradiction in terms will be surprised by the menu here.
OUTDOORS
Edinburgh`s weather can be as unpredictable and unkind as Chicago`s; a sweater and raincoat are essential, even in summer. But those willing to brave a little wind and wetness will enjoy a wide variety of outdoor activities.
For openers, there`s golf, invented centuries ago in nearby St. Andrews and still played passionately in Edinburgh. The city has a mix of well-tended public and private courses; for a challenge, try either of the steep Braid Hills courses on the south side of town. The cost of a round ranges from about $11 to $38, and clubs may be rented at most courses. Courses tend to be less crowded on weekdays, but be certain to reserve a tee time just in case.
Hikers may want to tackle the 800-foot peak of Arthur`s Seat and the adjoining Salisbury Crags; the effort is rewarded with exhilarating views of the city, the Firth of Forth and the lower Highlands. ”It is such a picture as but words can faintly suggest,” wrote William Winter, ”but when you look upon it you readily comprehend the pride and the passion with which a Scotsman loves his native land.”
If walking is the right speed, a stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens in Inverleith Row gives a panoramic view of the skyline, not to mention a colorful array of flowers, trees and plants. And joggers will find a haven in the Meadows, a half-mile south of the castle, or in Holyrood Park, situated behind Palace of Holyroodhouse in the shadow of Salisbury Crags.
SHOPPING
The New Town`s Princes Street boutiques beat at the mercantile heart of the city. But Edinburgh has plenty of other options for shoppers who wish to escape the crowds.
Bookstores: As is appropriate for a city in which the single tallest monument commemorates a writer-Sir Walter Scott, the 19th Century Scottish novelist-Edinburgh burgeons with bookstores offering the old and new. One of the best-stocked examples of the latter is Waterstones Booksellers, 114 George St. For suitably dusty and musty secondhand editions, try Broughton Books, 2a Broughton Place, which is tucked into a side street on the fringe of the New Town.
Clothing: A sweater from the home county of Shetland wool seems to be a must for most visitors, who can find a twist on that theme in Aika, 248 Canongate, along the Royal Mile. Finnish owner Anja Gardiner designs sweaters, has the wool dyed and commissions local knitters to make them. Hand-printed tags proclaim the result: an electric-blue cardigan by Mrs. Dunmuir, for example.
Sporting goods: John Dickson and Son Ltd., 21 Frederick St., sells fishing flies, hunting rifles, hip flasks and tweed plus-fours. It`s a shrine to the outdoor life that originated in these parts. Bring a loaded credit card. this and other notorious stories as they lead groups down the city`s ancient, winding streets, which lend themselves perfectly to a nighttime ramble.
One company offering such tours is Mercat Tours (661-4541). (The international access code, country and area phone code which must precede this and all other numbers here is 011-44-31.)
Old Town, as the name implies, formed the original city, beginning almost a millennium ago. Gladstone`s Land, a six-story tenement, sits near the heart of it on the Royal Mile, providing a glimpse into how Edinburghers might have lived almost 400 years ago. The land, or block of apartments, dates from 1617 and has been restored by the National Trust for Scotland. For tour information, call 225-2424.
The Trust has done an equally fine job in younger New Town, across Princes Street Gardens: the Georgian House (225-2160), 7 Charlotte Square, shows how a middle-class family might have lived during Britain`s Regency period in the early 19th Century.
At the foot of Princes Street is Calton Hill, a fist of volcanic rock from whose crest a curious group of objects sprouts: a telescope-shaped building, an observatory and a row of Greek columns, to name a few. A climb to the top of the hill will reward the athletic and the curious; a splendid view of the city awaits, along with huge monuments scattered like a giant`s abandoned toys.
Night life
In 1935, local poet Edwin Muir wrote, ”Whether the Scottish people drink more than other peoples it would be impossible to say; but they give the impression of doing so.” Many Edinburghers like single-malt Scotch, while others go for cask-conditioned ale. Either way, they take their drink seriously and in rather large quantities.
Be prepared to consume. And bear in mind that pubs close at midnight, with last call often coming at 11:30 p.m., even on weekends.
Tourists sometimes find themselves drawn to the pubs along Rose Street, but a venture into a neighborhood watering hole takes no additional effort. For example, try a pint of bitter at Bennett`s Bar, next door to the King`s Theatre at 8 Leven St. The pressed-tin ceiling, stained glass and worn wooden barstools evoke a turn-of-the-century atmosphere. The Blue Blazer, 2 Spittal St., is a friendly corner tavern with a wide selection of whiskies. For a no- frills pub two blocks from the Royal Mile, try Black Bo`s, 57 Blackfriars St. The International Bar, near The Meadows at 15 Brougham Place, may sound like a spot for jetsetters, but it is as local as a pub can be. Regulars, who show up early for tables near the fireplace, know it as ”the IB.”
First-time visitors may notice that the only sounds in Scottish pubs are the murmur of conversation and the clinking of pint glasses. For those who`d prefer music, folk and jazz are on tap in many taverns. Local folksingers meet at the Green Tree (184 Cowgate) for informal jam sessions on Monday nights. Sandy Bells on Forest Road has Saturday-night and Sunday-afternoon folk performances, while Ceilidh House (9 Hunter Square, off the Royal Mile), has live acoustic music nightly. For jazz, try the Haymarket Bar, 1 Haymarket Terrace in the West End.
Edinburgh doesn`t have the thriving club scene found in larger European cities, but dancers can swing into the night at the Venue (15-21 Calton Rd.). Culture
Art: Galleries selling antiques and traditional artwork are scattered throughout Edinburgh, but browsers looking for something a little more out of the ordinary will not be disappointed by the contemporary work found in places such as the Collective Gallery, 22-26 Cockburn St., and the Open Eye Gallery, 75 Cumberland St. Exhibited here are everything from abstract oil-and-pastel landscapes to wool-and-handmade-paper tapestries to jewelry and hats made from the wire of defunct televisions.
Theater: Drama lovers who feel they can forgo the King`s Theatre, a classic wedding cake of a playhouse, for something more unusual might want to see a show at the Traverse Theatre, 112 West Bow. This company has earned international acclaim for its skillful, flexible staging of new work.
Restaurants
Reservations-or bookings as they`re called here-are encouraged. Some restaurants are closed on Sundays, and many do not serve late, so it is wise to telephone first.
Kalpna (667-9890), 2-3 St. Patrick Square, has been called one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Britain-and with reason. The specialty here, Gujerati and South Indian food, is prepared creatively and served cheerfully. Colorful prints enhance the cozy atmosphere.
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The accent is authentically French at Chez Jules (225-7007), which is sandwiched into three rooms in Craig`s Close, just off trendy Cockburn Street. The heaping, well-prepared portions are good value for the money. If a romantic meal is the intent of the evening, ask for the candlelit north room; the other two well-lit dining rooms do double duty as passageways for the brisk, no-nonsense staff.
The elegant Howard Hotel (557-6515), 30 Great King St., is so discreet that only a brass plaque marks it among its neighbors in a row of Georgian townhouse residences in the New Town. Its restaurant, No. 36, is haunted mainly by well-dressed locals. Those tourists who thought that inventive Scottish fare must be a contradiction in terms will be surprised by the menu here.
Outdoors
Edinburgh`s weather can be as unpredictable and unkind as Chicago`s; a sweater and raincoat are essential, even in summer. But those willing to brave a little wind and wetness will enjoy a wide variety of outdoor activities.
For openers, there`s golf, invented centuries ago in nearby St. Andrews and still played passionately in Edinburgh. The city has a mix of well-tended public and private courses; for a challenge, try either of the steep Braid Hills courses on the south side of town. The cost of a round ranges from about $11 to $38, and clubs may be rented at most courses. Courses tend to be less crowded on weekdays, but be certain to reserve a tee time just in case.
Hikers may want to tackle the 800-foot peak of Arthur`s Seat and the adjoining Salisbury Crags; the effort is rewarded with exhilarating views of the city, the Firth of Forth and the lower Highlands. ”It is such a picture as but words can faintly suggest,” wrote William Winter, ”but when you look upon it you readily comprehend the pride and the passion with which a Scotsman loves his native land.”
If walking is the right speed, a stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens in Inverleith Row gives a panoramic view of the skyline, not to mention a colorful array of flowers, trees and plants. And joggers will find a haven in the Meadows, a half-mile south of the castle, or in Holyrood Park, behind the Palace of Holyroodhouse in the shadow of Salisbury Crags.
Shopping
The New Town`s Princes Street boutiques beat at the mercantile heart of the city. But Edinburgh has plenty of other options for shoppers who wish to escape the crowds.
Bookstores: As is appropriate for a city in which the single tallest monument commemorates a writer-Sir Walter Scott, the 19th Century Scottish novelist-Edinburgh burgeons with bookstores offering the old and new. One of the best-stocked examples of the latter is Waterstones Booksellers, 114 George St. For suitably dusty and musty secondhand editions, try Broughton Books, 2a Broughton Place, which is tucked into a side street on the fringe of the New Town.
Clothing: A sweater from the home county of Shetland wool seems to be a must for most visitors, who can find a twist on that theme in Aika, 248 Canongate, along the Royal Mile. Finnish owner Anja Gardiner designs sweaters, has the wool dyed and commissions local knitters to make them. Hand-printed tags proclaim the result: an electric-blue cardigan by Mrs. Dunmuir, for example.
Sporting goods: John Dickson and Son Ltd., 21 Frederick St., sells fishing flies, hunting rifles, hip flasks and tweed plus-fours. It`s a shrine to the outdoor life that originated in these parts. Bring a loaded credit card.