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”`Bittersweet,”` says pastry chef Judy Contino, sipping coffee from a plastic cup. ”I`ve had the name picked out for so long. It sounds rich and wonderful, the very best of combinations.”

The name belongs to Contino`s new pastry shop at 1114 W. Belmont Ave.

”It`s really like having a baby: It is my baby,” she says. ”We are making scones, muffins, breads until they come out of our ears. Jimmy

(Contino`s husband) has been here every day helping, and this is exactly what I have always wanted.”

Named 1991 pastry chef of the year by the Women`s Foodservice Network, Contino has worked her magic at several Lettuce Entertain You restaurants over the years, but she wanted her own place.

Now she has it, but Bittersweet is a Lettuce godchild. ”Rich (Melman, head of Lettuce), Gabino (Sotelino), Joe Decker and Jennifer Smith (all chefs from various Lettuce restaurants) have been by, giving suggestions,” Contino says.

The shop is light and airy with display cases filled with tortes, cookies, breads, scones, muffins and various pastries, plus candies and jars of chocolate sauce. There`s also a daily soup and sandwich, plus cappuccino and espresso. Hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.